Africa Twin DCT - Modified Pics

Warlord

Do Not Resuscitate
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Here shows the rear brake conversion master cylinder billet machined alloy special part and the rear 'Manual' version caliper hanger :cool:
 

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Here shows the Altrider High Fender Kit to raise the mudguard right up out of the way.

I quite like the look of it :D

Will have to wait and see if there are any negative impacts on ride-ability.
 

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Here I fitted a Garmin Virb XE camera which is hardwired into the bikes battery for 100% uptime. Videos around 10.5 hours continuously.

I'll have to wait and see if the mounts are strong enough off-road, but it is cable tie tethered to the bike if it gets all smashed up :eek::blast
 

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So after a few days of bloody hard work, what I actually did was

- Upgrade front brake lines to braided hoses.
- Upgrade rear brake lines to braided hoses.
- Fitted the Altrider High Fender Kit including fork guards
- Fitted new Metzeller Karoo 3 tyres
- Removed DCT Parking Brake lever, cables, caliper and caliper hangers
- Fitted Rugged Roads rear brake conversion kit.
- Fitted new R&G side tank pads (as old ones were peeling off)
- Fitted new Garmin Virb XE camera with mounts and hardwired to bike
- Fitted new Powerbronze tinted windscreen 350mm shortened

- and refitted all the body panels, crash bars, wheels, and set everything back up to work.

:beerjug::bluesn2s
 
Soooooooooooooooooo............what it like to ride now. I’m guessing it’s going to be alot better.

Well done that’s a lot of work get ya self a nice cuppa tea :thumb:thumb

What was the final decision regarding your new parking brake ? Cable tie ?
 
Soooooooooooooooooo............what it like to ride now. I’m guessing it’s going to be alot better.

Well done that’s a lot of work get ya self a nice cuppa tea :thumb:thumb

What was the final decision regarding your new parking brake ? Cable tie ?

I'll take it out tomorrow for a shakedown ride and get the tyres bedded in.

Cable tie for now, just as a back until I figure out a better option.
 
Things I'm going to be interested in are....

High fender - how it effects airflow, splash resistance, water spray, noise, steering at speed, vibrations etc

Rear brake conversion - foot brake efficiency, hand lever efficiency, hand lever interference with any DCT controls.

Video camera - quality of recording, vibration, airflow.
 
Soooooooooooooooooo............what it like to ride now. I’m guessing it’s going to be alot better.

Well done that’s a lot of work get ya self a nice cuppa tea :thumb:thumb

What was the final decision regarding your new parking brake ? Cable tie ?

Took bike out today for a couple of hours.

a) It all works as it should
b) Only went to grab the 'clutch' once haha... all that did was assist stopping at a give way.

Observations.

i) Rear brake lever is effective and will lock up the rear wheel if ABS is turned off. It has enough power to slow the bike significantly, causing DCT to downshift several times.

ii) As you pull the lever, the footbrake returns to home position.

iii) No distraction at all, or any notable change with the high fender mudguard. Don't know it's there.

So all good.
 
Great job done
Tell me please, when you have worked under rear master cylinder, you drilled the inner holes larger? ...or you just installed junction fitting and that`s all.
It seems to me that holes are so small. but i`am afraid about polished internal cylinder surface after making the holes larger.

Thank you
 
Great job done
Tell me please, when you have worked under rear master cylinder, you drilled the inner holes larger? ...or you just installed junction fitting and that`s all.
It seems to me that holes are so small. but i`am afraid about polished internal cylinder surface after making the holes larger.

Thank you

Nope, no drilling.

If you follow the rear brake resevoir hose to the rear master cylinder, you will see a male connecting pipe.

That male connecting pipe body is in the shape of a teardrop and a very small Allen bolt holds it onto the rear master cylinder.

You unbolt that teardrop connector.

The new custom billet machined alloy connector slides straight into that place. Then bolt it back with the small Allen bolt.

So now, instead of a male connector, it'll be a banjo bolt fitment, ready to accept your new brake line leading to the front brake lever resevoir.

It's that simple.

No drilling, no tapping, no machining.... just fit it.
 
I know about this fitting. I'm talking about 2 inner holes at the bottom.

No idea what you're referring to?

You don't do anything else?
 
Ok, no drilling.
After some meleage, no leaking in connection point? The rubber gasket and small screw seems not enough for braking pressure. Wouldn't it be easier to weld new fitting with cylinder?
 
Ok, no drilling.
After some meleage, no leaking in connection point? The rubber gasket and small screw seems not enough for braking pressure. Wouldn't it be easier to weld new fitting with cylinder?

When you fit the alloy billet special part they recommend you use Red Loctite and leave it to cure overnight.

I've only done 80 miles since fitment and no off-roading yet.

I'm out on Saturday off-roading so will test it then.
 
US fellas made unusual MS banjo bolt replacement, "bullet brake". It locks the hydraulic pressure in the brake line when the lever is pressed

usage - https://youtu.be/qyV1y4DT5FA

installation - https://youtu.be/O0em-Eh3DhM
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