not so Good Vibrations

Maybe we should all buy an Electric motorbike, problem solved..................:D

Then you'll get electrostatic interference with your mobile electrical devices and people will be moaning about that.... and the tyre noise is too loud.... and the airflow is too noisy above 300 mph :D
 
Maybe we should all buy an Electric motorbike, problem solved..................:D

Maybe but we would then probably get assholes peddling electric motor tunes instead.
 
Then you'll get electrostatic interference with your mobile electrical devices and people will be moaning about that.... and the tyre noise is too loud.... and the airflow is too noisy above 300 mph :D

And helmet noise, lets get back to the thread.............:beerjug:
 
Just a heads up on the Motoscan app, I went into the garage to see how the part in the app ESA works at what it offers, and surprise it does not connect to the ESA, I am going to email the software company, and see if the have an update, or is it just a future feature.

Answer to this is ESA calibration not available for LC,s so only GS-911 can do this at the moment, answer below from software maker who is German before the spellcheckers jump in.

The ESA is on this bike in the SAF module integrated. ESA calibration is at the time only on not LC models possible.
 
I'm sure someone must of looked into it in the past.. I could not live with my old bike as it was and won't with this if it develops.. so what will they do under warranty if I take it back?
There will be someone out there somewhere who's had it fixed or fixed it themselves I'm sure...
Bearings or what ever it is should not click / thump / knock like this...
There must be a fix...
 
I'm sure someone must of looked into it in the past.. I could not live with my old bike as it was and won't with this if it develops.. so what will they do under warranty if I take it back?
There will be someone out there somewhere who's had it fixed or fixed it themselves I'm sure...
Bearings or what ever it is should not click / thump / knock like this...
There must be a fix...

It would be nice, I’m still searching online so something might come up
 
Google cardan shaft harmonics and have a look.I fixed mine by freeing the splines off at both ends and greasing it.the joints were at a strange angle due to the splines being dry.
 
Google cardan shaft harmonics and have a look.I fixed mine by freeing the splines off at both ends and greasing it.the joints were at a strange angle due to the splines being dry.

Mines recently been done at the final drive end. Which end was worst on your bike or both ?
 
Final drive end was worst.Siezed solid.Had to remove shaft assembly.
to separate it.Bike gone now.PXed for 1250. I removed the final drive and lubricated both ends at the first service.
 
I greased mine also over winter.. and it started doing it in May?...
 
Is there any sense in giving the final drive a coat of acf50 before greasing?

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Is there any sense in giving the final drive a coat of acf50 before greasing?

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I didn’t but there was zero rust on it. Maybe if it has signs of water ingress it can’t hurt.
 
Is there any sense in giving the final drive a coat of acf50 before greasing?

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Seems if we understand from Wierpig that corrosion led to the harmonics on his bike, it might well be worth treating the whole shaft in ACF50 and then just greasing lightly the splines, as to not hold in the heat, it certainly cannot hurt the bike, and maybe even help the bike survive any water ingress, winter project for me, for sure, however also interesting video below, might be worth checking when you remove the shaft, it is in Brazilian Portuguese, but basically it is simple to see what he is on about.

 
Seems if we understand from Wierpig that corrosion led to the harmonics on his bike, it might well be worth treating the whole shaft in ACF50 and then just greasing lightly the splines, as to not hold in the heat, it certainly cannot hurt the bike, and maybe even help the bike survive any water ingress, winter project for me, for sure, however also interesting video below, might be worth checking when you remove the shaft, it is in Brazilian Portuguese, but basically it is simple to see what he is on about.


thats what happens if you don't grease them...... dont think its shaft.. engine RPM
 

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thats what happens if you don't grease them...... dont think its shaft.. engine RPM

Agree but handy to know and keep on top of that issue, as those that do not change their bikes every 2 years, like me will certainly have to keep an eye on that.....;)
 
done the shaft yet?
Not yet. Just got parts yesterday. Today is day one of work but... might get a go at it tomorrow as I'm on standby from home, if I dont get called into work

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Not yet. Just got parts yesterday. Today is day one of work but... might get a go at it tomorrow as I'm on standby from home, if I dont get called into work

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

see what you find.. sure it will be okay, but a bit of grease won't harm anyway....

Would you get a re-flash at the dealers to see if that has any impact? Other than a componenr going off, this is the only think I can think of to cure it. Mine did feel very mechanical but you never know....
 
see what you find.. sure it will be okay, but a bit of grease won't harm anyway....

Would you get a re-flash at the dealers to see if that has any impact? Other than a componenr going off, this is the only think I can think of to cure it. Mine did feel very mechanical but you never know....

As for grease apparently this is supposed to be the best, as does not fly off Loctite® LB 8012 Anti-Seize, I know the Honda stuff exists but seems this is better, and the Starabugs for the boot, but all say only a tiny amount needed, and better to check often, as the problem, is the boots not being good quality, older ones 1150,s etc had better boots, or gaitors before the wisecracks ask, what is a boot.
 


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