R1250GS rear subframe

red1 · Jul 27, 2019

How hard would it be to remove the rear subframe from 1250 Rallye?

Have this urge to have it powder coated white

Sent from my ONEPLUS 6 using Tapatalk

Deleted account 191119001 · Jul 27, 2019

red1 said:
How hard would it be to remove the rear subframe from 1250 Rallye?

Have this urge to have it powder coated white

Sent from my ONEPLUS 6 using Tapatalk

Bendy toy done this on his GS worth a read, also consider your warranty.

https://www.ukgser.com/forums/showt...tect-your-bike/page3?highlight=bendy+subframe

r1happy · Jul 28, 2019

It makes the bike look how BMW should have done it at the factory. I also did the footrest hanger, the silver subframe cover and grab rails.

Markyboy · Jul 30, 2019

I really like the look with the white subframe. Perfect

Dave N · Jul 30, 2019

red1 said:
How hard would it be to remove the rear subframe from 1250 Rallye?

Have this urge to have it powder coated white

Sent from my ONEPLUS 6 using Tapatalk

It’s really easy to be honest, although you will need a spare pair of hands to help thread the under tray and ecu holder through the frame without breaking any of the rails that hang onto the frame. (You will know when you get to that point.) Make sure you tape any bolts to the corresponding bits that you take off, it will make it easier to remember what goes where when you piece it back together. The hardest bolts for me were the ones under the rear rack (GSA) I don’t now if the GS is more accessible, but I stripped the heads on two bolts, so ended up replacing them.
Remember to take out the end bungs off the back end of the frame, and when you give the prime to a powder coated, buy some cheap bolts and finger tighten them back in the holes (16 or so I think) otherwise, if your coater doesn’t fit bolts in, you will never get the original bolts back in.
Cheers
Dave

beaver · Jul 31, 2019

Show us it all. IMO it exaggerates the frame just looking at the back. I'm sure it will look great but need to see the rest to get it in perspective

red1 · Aug 22, 2019

beaver said:
Show us it all. IMO it exaggerates the frame just looking at the back. I'm sure it will look great but need to see the rest to get it in perspective

Would also like to see the effect on the overall colour scheme.

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r1happy · Aug 22, 2019

This bike is my last big bike so went to town.
Some recent pics after Rallye Seat was re-sculptured and an air pad added.
Bike is non standard Basic model with a few extras.
RT 17” wheels with sports tyres, Ohlins TTX shocks, Akra headers with no cat & Remus can, silver plate on fairing sides, rocker covers and bash plate all powder coated Satin black. Rox risers & Puig infill panels.
Also been to see Geoff for a remap.

rogerstan · Aug 22, 2019

Bloody good effort that to be sure

Nutty · Aug 23, 2019

Looks spot on, that. I’d get rid of the pillion pegs and grab rail; would look even better.

I’m not mentioning the spot lights though! :augie

Deleted account 191119001 · Aug 23, 2019

r1happy said:
This bike is my last big bike so went to town.
Some recent pics after Rallye Seat was re-sculptured and an air pad added.
Bike is non standard Basic model with a few extras.
RT 17” wheels with sports tyres, Ohlins TTX shocks, Akra headers with no cat & Remus can, silver plate on fairing sides, rocker covers and bash plate all powder coated Satin black. Rox risers & Puig infill panels.
Also been to see Geoff for a remap.

Looks very nice indeed, pity BMW do not give the option to choose a frame colour at the beginning, bikes at that price should have a choice, like cars, also may I ask why you had to have a remap, did you get an engine check light on, when you installed the headers, as this is interesting me for a friend, I have found a thread in the USA that installed the same headers as yourself, and he says no engine light came on, and nothing done to engine, even though Akra do say on their website tuning ecu may be needed, your input would be interesting in thread below. :beerjug:

See post 169 below

https://advrider.com/f/threads/accessories-for-1250gs-gsa.1370749/page-9

and thread looking for solutions

https://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/514389-1250-Tuning-options-available/page2

Big Derek · Aug 23, 2019

r1happy said:
This bike is my last big bike so went to town.
Some recent pics after Rallye Seat was re-sculptured and an air pad added.
Bike is non standard Basic model with a few extras.
RT 17” wheels with sports tyres, Ohlins TTX shocks, Akra headers with no cat & Remus can, silver plate on fairing sides, rocker covers and bash plate all powder coated Satin black. Rox risers & Puig infill panels.
Also been to see Geoff for a remap.

I agree sub frame looks a lot better white and the factory should offer it. Did you get a white powder coat colour (name)
I see you have the rear frame infills are they the pyramid plastics ones ? and do you think they make any difference ?

Warlord · Aug 23, 2019

Don't like that at all......

r1happy · Aug 23, 2019

I initially installed Remus headers to go with the can having previously using a similar setup on my last 1200 GSA LC. The Remus factory pics showed the headers still had a flap for the noise, however when it arrived no flap was fitted. That caused an engine fault light. My dealer tried a fix with the servo wheel, that the cables connect to, but it only worked for a short time before the light came back on. Fitted the Akra headers as the dealer knew they had the flap as they had fitted some already, with no problems and no fault light. My 1250 also had a K&N filter fitted. No problems in 1000 miles since then.

I had the HT remap as they have done my last 4 bikes and tho I don’t want to restart the war, I can tell the difference before and after, so I’m a returning satisfied customer who will continue to use them.

Deleted account 191119001 · Aug 23, 2019

r1happy said:
I initially installed Remus headers to go with the can having previously using a similar setup on my last 1200 GSA LC. The Remus factory pics showed the headers still had a flap for the noise, however when it arrived no flap was fitted. That caused an engine fault light. My dealer tried a fix with the servo wheel, that the cables connect to, but it only worked for a short time before the light came back on. Fitted the Akra headers as the dealer knew they had the flap as they had fitted some already, with no problems and no fault light. My 1250 also had a K&N filter fitted. No problems in 1000 miles since then.

I had the HT remap as they have done my last 4 bikes and tho I don’t want to restart the war, I can tell the difference before and after, so I’m a returning satisfied customer who will continue to use them.

Thanks for that info, it was really useful, that we can see it is the flap that is the important point between getting an engine light or not, as for the tuning agree that is your own personal opinion, but your help with the headers is really awesome, thank you. :beerjug:

r1happy · Aug 23, 2019

My dealer told me the 1200 LC worked on resistance so taking the cables off and putting a bit of sponge in was enough to stop the light. Apparently the cable rotor on the 1250 had to turn thru 180 degrees and stop. Without the flap there is nothing to stop the wheel turning more than that which generates the light.

Deleted account 191119001 · Aug 23, 2019

r1happy said:
My dealer told me the 1200 LC worked on resistance so taking the cables off and putting a bit of sponge in was enough to stop the light. Apparently the cable rotor on the 1250 had to turn thru 180 degrees and stop. Without the flap there is nothing to stop the wheel turning more than that which generates the light.

Awesome info that is, I now have something positive to explain to my mate. :thumb2

Teeonethousand · Oct 23, 2020

Dave N said:
It’s really easy to be honest, although you will need a spare pair of hands to help thread the under tray and ecu holder through the frame without breaking any of the rails that hang onto the frame. (You will know when you get to that point.) Make sure you tape any bolts to the corresponding bits that you take off, it will make it easier to remember what goes where when you piece it back together. The hardest bolts for me were the ones under the rear rack (GSA) I don’t now if the GS is more accessible, but I stripped the heads on two bolts, so ended up replacing them.
Remember to take out the end bungs off the back end of the frame, and when you give the prime to a powder coated, buy some cheap bolts and finger tighten them back in the holes (16 or so I think) otherwise, if your coater doesn’t fit bolts in, you will never get the original bolts back in.
Cheers
Dave

Hi Dave....I am intending to remove my subframe for powder coat due to corrosion issues....I assume you just 7ndo all visible bolts, disconnect wires, remove trays, undo any other visible bolts and off it comes. Is it as ‘easy’ as that? Thx

moody · Oct 23, 2020

Just wait a few months for it to rust, then BMW will paint it for free under warranty

Teeonethousand · Oct 23, 2020

moody said:
Just wait a few months for it to rust, then BMW will paint it for free under warranty

Tried that....no dice under used warranty. Might have mentioned 72 times that used warranty excludes rust.

R1250GS rear subframe

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