Suspension question

Santa-2512

Santa-2512

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Got all the bits bar a new bump stop for my shorter stand,

So ready to go,

Was going to do it this afternoon, but realised i'd just filled up with fuel, so dont want to be lugging a full tank round.

That said, looking at the front end, i reckon i could get in with a socket and bar.

Has anyone done it without removing the tank, or does it have to come off?

Also on the rear lower bolt,

I had a look, at using my hot air gun, but i dont think i can hit the inner end without doing the paintwork in.

I think i'll get some gas and sweat the bolt from the other end .

Anyone got any tips for doing it?
 
IIRC although the tank doesn't have to come off it is easier if you just move it back slightly. Not that big a job in reality, panels off, lower tank mounting bolts out and slide back. No need to disconnect any pipes or wiring.
 
Just done my WC so not directly the same, but..
managed to maneuvere the tank backwards an inch or so, enough to get access
rear I used a 3ft bar and just pushed against the squeeking noise.
 
You've got just enough clearance if you pull the tank rearward, don't overstretch the fuel lines.

It's worth getting a deep 1/2" extention, iirc 18" wobble bar, makes job easier.

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
 
I remove the rear lower suspension bolt, then tap a few threads with a 7/16 UNF tap.
Insert a 7/16 UNF set screw with a nut on it, a piece of rubber to protect the paint, a 5 mm spacer and thick washer.
Use the nut to pull the spacer back a couple of mm.
 
Santa-2512 said:
I had a look, at using my hot air gun, but i dont think i can hit the inner end without doing the paintwork in.

I think i'll get some gas and sweat the bolt from the other end .

Anyone got any tips for doing it?
Click to expand...

Have mentioned on other threads the small plumbers soldering mat I have that is great for applying heat in areas with parts you don't want to heat up. I paid less than this, but looks like one I use. Blow torch also much quicker than heat gun, and more accurate.
 
Front shock I removed tank. Didn't try with it in place as so quick to get off.

Lower bolt on front shock needs good amount of heat on rear of bolt (left side bike). Need to support bike under bash plate.
 
One other thing to mention on rear, as I don't know if this applies to your shock, but in terms of clearance to frame, when shock is in use the gap at rear of shock between frame and shock closes up with rear wheel rising, so clearance at front side of shock increases slightly. This made a difference the the orientation of my new shock when I fitted it. May be irrelevant in other cases
 
seahorse said:
IIRC although the tank doesn't have to come off it is easier if you just move it back slightly. Not that big a job in reality, panels off, lower tank mounting bolts out and slide back. No need to disconnect any pipes or wiring.
Click to expand...


you don't ever need to touch the tank, leave well alone... remove the plastic alternator drive belt covers on the front of the engine and use a crows foot tool and just undo the nut (machine mart 5 quid) should take you 15 minutes to get the front shock off.... (3 minutes if you had tools at hand and were in a rush)

don't forget to use the centre stand and a jack on the bottom of the engine to take the bikes weight


K030008_2.jpg
 
botus said:
you don't ever need to touch the tank, leave well alone... remove the plastic alternator drive belt covers on the front of the engine and use a crows foot tool and just undo the nut (machine mart 5 quid) should take you 15 minutes to get the front shock off.... (3 minutes if you had tools at hand and were in a rush)

don't forget to use the centre stand and a jack on the bottom of the engine to take the bikes weight


K030008_2.jpg
Click to expand...

why does the alternator cover need to come off? (i doubt mine would it looks so shitty)

The reprom says nothing about removing the cover
 
Santa-2512 said:
why does the alternator cover need to come off? (i doubt mine would it looks so shitty)

The reprom says nothing about removing the cover
Click to expand...

the front shock doesn't clear the wishbone / engine cover if its in place.... a couple of torx bolts and the cover comes off and the shock comes clear without touching any part of the bike
 
I didn't need to remove the plastic alt belt cover to replace my front esa shock.
Take the tank off , its a 5min job and makes it so much easier. Just put some grease on the o rings before re connecting them to the tank/pump.
 
the shock drops out the bottom, what has the tank got to do with that....
when you guys say "the tank" do you mean the trim cover? coz removing the whole tank is a huge load of filisters and way more than 5 minutes
 
botus said:
the shock drops out the bottom, what has the tank got to do with that....
when you guys say "the tank" do you mean the trim cover? coz removing the whole tank is a huge load of filisters and way more than 5 minutes
Click to expand...

I know they drop out the bottom, but you need to undo the nut at the top, hence taking the tank off.

I cant believe people are so lazy, I can get all the panels and tank off in maybe 10 mins. Infact , ive never done this before but I could film it if I must !?
 
andy79 said:
I know they drop out the bottom, but you need to undo the nut at the top, hence taking the tank off.

I cant believe people are so lazy, I can get all the panels and tank off in maybe 10 mins. Infact , ive never done this before but I could film it if I must !?
Click to expand...

Yes i probably could as well, but if one of the tank connecters should break, as there known to do, i'm buggered until i can get a new one and as it's my daily driver ;)
 
Well it went wrong - wouldnt it :(

Oh poooo

It's gone wrong as i suspected - :blast

Got the old unit off, pleanty of heat and a big breaker bar ...

The old Showa unit was very tight in the swing arm, but with some judicious wiggline it came out

but as many of you have said :blast:blast the outer bearing has moved in to meet the old suspension unit

And sods law says it's a nads whisker too far inboard to get the new Wilburs in :(

ive tried heating it, and using a C cramp & socket to press it back, but it isnt moving.

I dont have a slide hammer so i'm a bit stuck

any ideas :)
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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