Best clutch friction plate 2008 GS?

I know you have to take the bike right down to almost component parts to change the clutch. but on the Haynes spanner system, how many spanners is it to change the clutch? Depending on what it is I'm a 3-4 spanners on most things and sometimes a 5 spanner, but usually a 3 spanner.
 
A clutch disc is made of abrasive material. To make it last longer you can modify your riding technique and environment. You can use more material in the disc which will change the feel you can put in a stronger spring again the feel will change or you can change the material that the disc is made from again it will feel different and might wear out the other components prematurely. You have had very good advice but your still pushing for more. Have you any thoughts or ideas yourself? JJH
 
Sensible first step seems to ask advice from others.

Still interested in anyone else's experience

But you don't appear to want advice from others.

Others have asked as I have.
What type of riding so you do. You have said it's irrelevant.
Do you ride on your own. With pillion, panniers and camping gear for months on end.
How long did your present clutch last. No answer.
We don't even know which bike you have.
How long have you had your bike and do you intend keeping it long term.
You just want a plate that someone will say lasted him or her longer full stop.

What if someone recommends a heavy duty clutch and you are travelling in a city every day. Will you blame them if the clutch action is then too stiff and you are struggling with it. This won't matter so much if you are commuting on a motorway and just doing long trips to Europe and back.
Anyway. I'm in the Ukraine at the moment enjoying my now 103.000 mile clutch still. And as I've said above if it wears out I will replace it with a standard one as it's been no trouble whatsoever.
 
I think I’ll give this thread the slip. After all, I’ve seen every type of clutch worn out, all at different mileages. I’ve also seen the same original bmw clutches worn out as low as 17k miles up to 120k miles so the OPs question doesn’t have a definitive answer.
 
Total bastard of an idea Great if you want to travel around the world and are worried about oil leaks

But much more expensive, tend to be grabby and are very hard on the other components

My only deviation from "Standard" would be to invest in one of those extended spline clutches, Where instead of 17 mm* of spline engagement you get something like 25mm* so the wear/stresses on the input shaft is lessened exponentially

*rough figures but hopefully you get the idea


I take it from this, a ceramic friction plate still grips when it's contaminated with oil.

The extended spline collar is interesting, if i recall correctly there was a time when spline lubes were being carried out on bikes to prevent the input shaft being stripped.

Is there a longer friction plate spline collar on later bikes?
 
My GSA clutch slipped in 5th/6th when opening the throttle for overtakes at only 10k on the clock. The plates were a bit glazed on stripdown. I fitted a full clutch assembly at £400 and the bugger was slipping again within about 1000 miles, same symptoms......

I drained, refilled and bled the mineral fluid and it has been perfect ever since.
 
I think I’ll give this thread the slip. After all, I’ve seen every type of clutch worn out, all at different mileages. I’ve also seen the same original bmw clutches worn out as low as 17k miles up to 120k miles so the OPs question doesn’t have a definitive answer.

Exactly. Well said sir.
 
I don't have an issue, I think he's asking a great question and getting pathetic answers

manufacturers, whilst a bunch of incompetent retarded halfwits wrecking the world based mainly on the idiotic instruction of the accountants pulling their chain, at present still appear to find the best compromise on friction material

thus the general behaviour, feel and longevity of the clutch and brakes coming from the manufacturer is seldom improved
sadly these days many competent aftermarket components are in reality some fake trash from China and whilst the good pattern ones should do the job, you're more likely be sold and thus fit a fake, leading to a number of issues....

a clutch on a car or a Boxer BM is a pain in the arse to fit. the OEM will fit, will work well and if used appropriately last for 85k miles, whilst a fake will last 15 minutes. If you can really buy a genuine pattern part close to OEM quality you will do OK and it will feel OK but in general it will perform slightly worse in all aspects you care to measure

When it comes to brakes, the risks of Chinese trash is much higher but luckily the ease to go back and fit OEM is far easier (if the bike is still upright)

When we are talking friction material you can easily make it grip more, but the compromise will likely be to the detriment of rideability / ease of use. On brakes we get to ones that will respond differently in wet weather and temperature, often being a bit nasty on cold disks and improving at they get hotter

In general you seldom go wrong with GENUINE OEM for friction material, and for a clutch I'd always do OEM on a car. For brakes I often want better than OEM coz I push it far harder than the average Joe, but don't expect a performance improvement from EBC. In my 35 years experience its 20% worse than OEM

I can't give a heads up on ceramic, never tried, but if it worked "really well" they'd probably fit as std on a clutch. What you hear on the brakes is its expensive and works great if you're an animal operating it under similar conditions (lap after lap). However noise can be an issue, if not abused enough they can play up and the range of ideal operating conditions is far more limited than you get with ordinary friction materials.
 
I don't have an issue, I think he's asking a great question and getting pathetic answers

manufacturers, whilst a bunch of incompetent retarded halfwits wrecking the world based mainly on the idiotic instruction of the accountants pulling their chain, at present still appear to find the best compromise on friction material

thus the general behaviour, feel and longevity of the clutch and brakes coming from the manufacturer is seldom improved
sadly these days many competent aftermarket components are in reality some fake trash from China and whilst the good pattern ones should do the job, you're more likely be sold and thus fit a fake, leading to a number of issues....

a clutch on a car or a Boxer BM is a pain in the arse to fit. the OEM will fit, will work well and if used appropriately last for 85k miles, whilst a fake will last 15 minutes. If you can really buy a genuine pattern part close to OEM quality you will do OK and it will feel OK but in general it will perform slightly worse in all aspects you care to measure

When it comes to brakes, the risks of Chinese trash is much higher but luckily the ease to go back and fit OEM is far easier (if the bike is still upright)

When we are talking friction material you can easily make it grip more, but the compromise will likely be to the detriment of rideability / ease of use. On brakes we get to ones that will respond differently in wet weather and temperature, often being a bit nasty on cold disks and improving at they get hotter

In general you seldom go wrong with GENUINE OEM for friction material, and for a clutch I'd always do OEM on a car. For brakes I often want better than OEM coz I push it far harder than the average Joe, but don't expect a performance improvement from EBC. In my 35 years experience its 20% worse than OEM

I can't give a heads up on ceramic, never tried, but if it worked "really well" they'd probably fit as std on a clutch. What you hear on the brakes is its expensive and works great if you're an animal operating it under similar conditions (lap after lap). However noise can be an issue, if not abused enough they can play up and the range of ideal operating conditions is far more limited than you get with ordinary friction materials.

Talking of pathetic answers. Wtf.
He only wants info on a longer lasting clutch plate, you go off on a tangent talking about getting more performance from brakes.
 
The only direct comparison I have was on a 2005 R1200RT.
Was used by an instructor so a lot of town use. Fitted new OEM clutch every 25K miles. I then fitted the motobins heavy duty friction plate with OEM pressure plate and they lasted 60K miles.
It may just have suited his style of riding??
Bike sold at 180K miles.
For myself I would use OEM as 80K + is no problem.
 
I don't have an issue, I think he's asking a great question and getting pathetic answers

manufacturers, whilst a bunch of incompetent retarded halfwits wrecking the world based mainly on the idiotic instruction of the accountants pulling their chain, at present still appear to find the best compromise on friction material

thus the general behaviour, feel and longevity of the clutch and brakes coming from the manufacturer is seldom improved
sadly these days many competent aftermarket components are in reality some fake trash from China and whilst the good pattern ones should do the job, you're more likely be sold and thus fit a fake, leading to a number of issues....

a clutch on a car or a Boxer BM is a pain in the arse to fit. the OEM will fit, will work well and if used appropriately last for 85k miles, whilst a fake will last 15 minutes. If you can really buy a genuine pattern part close to OEM quality you will do OK and it will feel OK but in general it will perform slightly worse in all aspects you care to measure

When it comes to brakes, the risks of Chinese trash is much higher but luckily the ease to go back and fit OEM is far easier (if the bike is still upright)

When we are talking friction material you can easily make it grip more, but the compromise will likely be to the detriment of rideability / ease of use. On brakes we get to ones that will respond differently in wet weather and temperature, often being a bit nasty on cold disks and improving at they get hotter

In general you seldom go wrong with GENUINE OEM for friction material, and for a clutch I'd always do OEM on a car. For brakes I often want better than OEM coz I push it far harder than the average Joe, but don't expect a performance improvement from EBC. In my 35 years experience its 20% worse than OEM

I can't give a heads up on ceramic, never tried, but if it worked "really well" they'd probably fit as std on a clutch. What you hear on the brakes is its expensive and works great if you're an animal operating it under similar conditions (lap after lap). However noise can be an issue, if not abused enough they can play up and the range of ideal operating conditions is far more limited than you get with ordinary friction materials.

Parklife.
 
I've seen many types of tyres worn out

I've seen many types of brake pad worn out

So they're all the same? Only how you ride matters?

Are people seriously claiming that a race slick lasts the same time as a hard compound touring tyre? The only difference is how you ride it - seriously?

Unfortunately, if you are committed to saying that the compound makes no difference in the case of a clutch, then you are committed to saying that for tyres and brake pads.

I have no formal training in mechanics, but I do in logic, so here's what is logically sound:

For any given way of riding, a longer-lasting compound of a given thickness will last longer.

If you change the way of riding, the lifespan of any given compound will change. If you change the thickness, or other properties, the same is likely true.

Asking if there is a longer-lasting type of clutch is a meaningful question. That organic clutches last 15-120k miles, or thereabouts, depending on riding style in no way renders the question meaningless.

To put it another way, there are 2 variables at play. You cannot claim that one variable doesn't exist because of a second variable.
 
as a side note , i do Guzzi's , also a dry clutch , changed them at 3-100 k miles , depends on rider , do they know how to ride ? i got 85k out of my cali ,( it ripped the centre out ) my bmw i changed cos i had the g/box out, it was 1/2 worn @86k miles
 
Yes, you've nailed it. The general attitude is that if the OEM clutch wears out then it is due to the rider being a 'bad' rider, so case closed. Only solution, as you imply, is to be more like the riders who get 80k+.

However, it isn't overly difficult to see that the above point has no bearing on whether organic or synthetic clutches last longer for any given use. That is to say, they are separate variables.

It is up to a rider to decide how to ride. If I am a 'bad' rider because I am replacing my clutch after 50k miles including lots of London riding, then so be it.

It is also up to people to decide if they want to say things that don't make sense - such as the claim that the compound of a tyre etc makes no difference to life span
 
I've seen many types of tyres worn out

I've seen many types of brake pad worn out

So they're all the same? Only how you ride matters?

Are people seriously claiming that a race slick lasts the same time as a hard compound touring tyre? The only difference is how you ride it - seriously?

Unfortunately, if you are committed to saying that the compound makes no difference in the case of a clutch, then you are committed to saying that for tyres and brake pads.

I have no formal training in mechanics, but I do in logic, so here's what is logically sound:

For any given way of riding, a longer-lasting compound of a given thickness will last longer.

If you change the way of riding, the lifespan of any given compound will change. If you change the thickness, or other properties, the same is likely true.

Asking if there is a longer-lasting type of clutch is a meaningful question. That organic clutches last 15-120k miles, or thereabouts, depending on riding style in no way renders the question meaningless.

To put it another way, there are 2 variables at play. You cannot claim that one variable doesn't exist because of a second variable.
I agree with what you are saying
But, one question I asked is how many miles did YOU get out of your last clutch? you have avoided answering the question.
Another,
What kind of riding do you do,? You have avoided answering the question.
Another
How long do you intend to be keeping your bike, you avoided answering the question.
I also said I have over 100,000 miles out of my original clutch and wouldn't hesitate to fit the standard clutch again when it fails. Why bother to change if I can get that many miles front the standard clutch?
I do understand what you are asking, but if you only got about 25,000 miles from your clutch I can see why you are trying to get something that might last longer.
Anyway I hope you succeed in your quest.
 
Clutch started slipping after a few hundred miles of dirt / gravelroads in the Alps followed by about 1,500 miles of hard riding on alpine tarmac. Does London miles too but mainly lanes. My aim is to keep bike for >50k. OEM clutch may last that, but may not particularly if I do more offroad riding, and I don't want to do the job again.

Speaking to head tech at big bmw dealer and bmw specialist indy mechanic, both said lots of heavy duty plates fitted without issue. I would have liked to ask on here are views on SBS (new offering this year) vs Siebenrock (discontinued but still available) vs Emerald Isle (Motorworks Chinese partner) vs Surflex sintered, but based on prior posts I don't imagine I'll get too much back. If others are interested I am happy to post my experience when I decide and fit it
 
I've seen many types of tyres worn out

I've seen many types of brake pad worn out

So they're all the same? Only how you ride matters?

Are people seriously claiming that a race slick lasts the same time as a hard compound touring tyre? The only difference is how you ride it - seriously?

Unfortunately, if you are committed to saying that the compound makes no difference in the case of a clutch, then you are committed to saying that for tyres and brake pads.

I have no formal training in mechanics, but I do in logic, so here's what is logically sound:

For any given way of riding, a longer-lasting compound of a given thickness will last longer.

If you change the way of riding, the lifespan of any given compound will change. If you change the thickness, or other properties, the same is likely true.

Asking if there is a longer-lasting type of clutch is a meaningful question. That organic clutches last 15-120k miles, or thereabouts, depending on riding style in no way renders the question meaningless.

To put it another way, there are 2 variables at play. You cannot claim that one variable doesn't exist because of a second variable.

You’re confusing yourself . The only way you can asses which or what wears out faster/prematurely to the accuracy you’re demanding , and that applies to tyres, brake pads and clutch plate, is for the same rider to have used the various parts on the same ride. Otherwise there are too many variables to consider between rider, bike, road conditions, type of journey, weight, temperature etc etc .. just any clutch friction plate that takes your fancy and stop losing sleep obsessing over pointless detail :D
 
Clutch started slipping after a few hundred miles of dirt / gravelroads in the Alps followed by about 1,500 miles of hard riding on alpine tarmac. Does London miles too but mainly lanes. My aim is to keep bike for >50k. OEM clutch may last that, but may not particularly if I do more offroad riding, and I don't want to do the job again.

Speaking to head tech at big bmw dealer and bmw specialist indy mechanic, both said lots of heavy duty plates fitted without issue. I would have liked to ask on here are views on SBS (new offering this year) vs Siebenrock (discontinued but still available) vs Emerald Isle (Motorworks Chinese partner) vs Surflex sintered, but based on prior posts I don't imagine I'll get too much back. If others are interested I am happy to post my experience when I decide and fit it

Is your clutch actually worn out?
Have you checked?
You said it was slipping after a trip in the Alps, have you checked to find out the reason it was slipping. Could be any number of reasons for it to slip a little,
I was out on my GSA in the first year I had it and the clutch slipped a couple of times, I noticed straight away that the hand guard was fowling the lever. Pushed it away to give clearance and have done another 90,000 miles on it since with no problems.
Your lack of communication is not helping your plight very much. If you don't want to get some advice close this thread and go and fit a heavy duty clutch then report back in 5 years to let us know how it lasted. (As stated earlier in this thread)
 


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