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Thread: Granny on the Silk Road/Pamir Highway

  1. #33
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    Once we finished the Bartang Valley, we were back on the Pamir Highway, heading north. The road is mostly tarmac, except for the high passes back over the border.
    We stopped for pics at Karakul. The white stuff on the ground in these pics is salt/minerals.






    We stopped for petrol in the last village before the border.



    This white stuff is snow. We had about 100km from that village in Tajikistan, over the border, to Sary Tash in Kyrgyzstan.
    The road is mud/gravel/potholes/puddles. We had been cold going over it on the way south, but this time it was so much colder as it was snowing. The snow was sticking to the front of our gloves, so our fingers were freezing. Which made clutch/brake control hard. The snow was also sticking to our visors, and neither of our pinlocks were working, so the visors were steaming up.

    We passed a group of cyclists on the pass. Now, I know people think we're mad doing these trips, but Holy God, doing it on a push bike?!!? They're just proper crazy



    Sneaky pic at the border it was too cold to stop anywhere else.



    We arrived at a cafe in Sary Tash. We had a bite to eat, and look at the bikes!! Luckily, there were rooms to rent here and a shower of sorts



    This was what we woke to the next day. All I could think of were those poor cyclists. They would have had to camp up in the pass as there's no way they could have made it through before dark.



    The local guys cleared up the snow and it started melting. Kev put some more air in the tyres now we were back on tarmac



    Leaving the cafe/motel.



    There were several little landslides like this along the way. Sary Tash is at an altitude of approx 3000m, and we had to go up over a few passes on the way north to Osh.





    Local traffic!



    There were a whole heap of army trucks and tanks pulled in like this. We passed several groups of them.





    This is a fairly common sight in the stans.



    We arrived back to Osh, which is around about sea level, so really warmt shirt and shorts weather there. This is us in Stas' guesthouse. He's going to be storing the bikes for the winter for us.

    The story is not over yet. More to come tomorrow





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  2. #34
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    A nice trip this must have been. Thanks for uploading the pictures too.

  3. #35
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    Mighty stuff Míde. GRMA.
    There are two opinions of the GS. There are those who have ridden one who think its fantastic and there are those who haven't who know its crap.

  4. #36
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    Osh is a lovely city. We went on a foodie tour and also a walking tour of Osh. The tour guide was great, only a young lad and a little wet behind the ears. But very proud of his country, with very good reason.

    Kyrgyzstan is an absolutely beautiful country. The scenery was magnificent, views that cannot be described and photos definitely don't do it justice. I would highly recommend everyone to visit.

    Tajikistan is not as beautiful, but beautiful nonetheless. The people in Tajikistan are so lovely and welcoming. Particularly the children. We were greeted by running, waving children in every village we came into. Fabulous, smiling faces, and they all could speak a little English.

    These countries are so welcoming. We met many, many travellers. In cars, jeeps, bicycles, camper vans, travelling alone and in groups, some on organised tours, and others, like us, doing their own thing.
    Everyone enjoying themselves.


    The only statue of Lenin still in Osh.



    This is the eternal flame, to commemorate all those lost in the war. Only it was bought out by a private company, who won't leave the flame burning all the time, so the eternal flame is only lit on 'special occasions'





    This is the love Park, where all the weddings in Osh take place









    This is the hotel of happiness I can't even describe the look and feeling of hopelessness and despair that emanated from it







    3 storey yurt





    An oven for baking bread.



    The bread is placed in rows all over these ovens.



    Delicious



    Kev's new friend.



    This guys was travelling through the stans in a jeep with his Mrs. They had driven from the UK.



    This is one of my favourite photos of the trip. This view was absolutely stunning



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  5. #37
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    The happy ending to this story is that Kev and Jarak went back to Kyrgyzstan in September, with Fritz, to do it all over again

    So, Fritz got to ride the Pamir Highway, and the Wakhan corridor, and the Bartang Valley. They were there from 25/9 to 6/10. They had fabulous weather, obviously still cold at high altitude but no snow this time Jarak hired a bike from Stas' brother. The guesthouse is called Zhukov's guesthouse in Osh. You'll find it on fb. We can highly recommend it, for any traveller/overlander

















    Bibi Fatima springs again



    Great pic



    Team work Kev got 3 punctures in one day!







    Aren't those mountains just fabulous?!



    This guy runs Zarya Hotel in Khorog, Tajikistan. Another super hotel. We stayed there for 2 nights in June. When the boys rocked up there last week, they got a fine welcome. Kev facetimed me from there, I was walking the dogs on the beach here, and had a lovely chat with the owner(whose name escapes me)






    We met Charlie and Cecilia Tseng in Tash Rabat, Kyrgyzstan. They had travelled from Singapore, through Malaysia, Thailand, Pakistan, India, Nepal and China to get there. They subsequently travelled through Kazakhstan, caspian sea, Georgia, Azerbaijan, Bulgaria, Greece, and the balkans, up through Scandinavia, Scotland and then Ireland. They stayed with us last Saturday before heading to Kerry and then back east to UK. Last we heard, they were going to a Liverpool game in Anfield








    The bikes are in Zhukov's guesthouse in Osh, Kyrgyzstan for the winter now. Waiting for us to go back in May/June 2020 to continue the journey west.

    If we can get visas for Turkmenistan next year, Granny will be going to the Gates of Hell

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  6. #38
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    Fabulous. I don't know about you but I'm bloody exhausted ! Thanks for the effort in posting this up. Great pictures. I've really enjoyed it.

  7. #39
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    Excellent trip and glad to hear that Fritz finally got to ride the Pamir....look forward to the next episode.

  8. #40
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    What a great write up Mide and fab photos. Brought back vivid memories. Thank you. Loved Kevin's recording of his trip back to the Bartang Valley with Fritz.
    We should learn from the weather. It pays no attention to criticism. [/I]

  9. #41
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    A lovely read as always Mide and very inspirational.
    Thanks for posting
    D

  10. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mide View Post
    If we can get visas for Turkmenistan next year, Granny will be going to the Gates of Hell
    Assuming you mean the Darvaza gas crater, been there. It's incredible!!

  11. #43
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    Fantastic!
    Mark
    Just when you've got this rat race licked, here come faster rats!

  12. #44
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    What an incredible trip, great write up and photos as well.

  13. #45
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    Just finished reading that, great report, thanks for taking the time to post your trip. What an amazing experience you both got to share together and reminisce over in years to come, and you are far from finished yet I imagine.

  14. #46
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    Thanks for that, a great write up, takes a lot of time and you are always aware while you're riding "would that make a good photo for the blog?"

    Good that you name a lot of the places you stayed, always good to have recommendations. Did you have any issues getting fuel or with the quality of it?

    Heading east in about 20 months though the exact route will evolve at the time

  15. #47
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    great stuff

    fantastic write up, well done Mide & Kev, very jealous.

  16. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tinytim View Post
    Fabulous. I don't know about you but I'm bloody exhausted ! Thanks for the effort in posting this up. Great pictures. I've really enjoyed it.
    It was a great trip writing the report and looking at the pics brings it all back

    Quote Originally Posted by barak666 View Post
    Excellent trip and glad to hear that Fritz finally got to ride the Pamir....look forward to the next episode.
    Me too

    Quote Originally Posted by petcul View Post
    What a great write up Mide and fab photos. Brought back vivid memories. Thank you. Loved Kevin's recording of his trip back to the Bartang Valley with Fritz.
    He's working on editing a video of our trip

    Quote Originally Posted by gspod View Post
    A lovely read as always Mide and very inspirational.
    Thanks for posting
    D
    You're very welcome

    Quote Originally Posted by richardbd View Post
    Assuming you mean the Darvaza gas crater, been there. It's incredible!!
    Yup! That's the one

    Quote Originally Posted by earthmover View Post
    Fantastic!
    Mark
    Thank you

    Quote Originally Posted by Monners View Post
    What an incredible trip, great write up and photos as well.
    Everytime I look at the pics, I wish I was back there

    Quote Originally Posted by bikewise View Post
    Just finished reading that, great report, thanks for taking the time to post your trip. What an amazing experience you both got to share together and reminisce over in years to come, and you are far from finished yet I imagine.
    So many plans, so little time/holidays

    Quote Originally Posted by Northern jock View Post
    Thanks for that, a great write up, takes a lot of time and you are always aware while you're riding "would that make a good photo for the blog?"

    Good that you name a lot of the places you stayed, always good to have recommendations. Did you have any issues getting fuel or with the quality of it?

    Heading east in about 20 months though the exact route will evolve at the time
    The quality is not so good in Tajikistan, but no probs in Kyrgystan, Kazakstan. We had no problems getting fuel. Most villages that don't have a petrol station, have a man who will sell petrol to you

    The best advise I can give you is, always have toilet roll in your pocket

    Quote Originally Posted by de crowe View Post
    fantastic write up, well done Mide & Kev, very jealous.
    Con, it was a great trip, I can highly recommend both countries. It's very easy to hire bikes there, and food and petrol is really cheap. The people are lovely and the scenery is just amazing. Everyone should go

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