Bought a new to me bike - what maintenance should I do?

adm1

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Hello all,

Last week I bought a used 2011 twin cam GS with 63K miles on it. I've ridden about 500 miles on it so far and it has been flawless. Service history was full dealer for the first 5 years or so with complete records, then the last owner serviced it himself and also kept good records. He also had a GS911 tool and had done maintenance such as flushing the brakes very recently.

So the bike has been very well looked after and is cosmetically excellent for the year.

However. I like to play with spanners and intend to give it a thorough going over, starting with a full service just for complete peace of mind.

So I will do engine, gearbox and final drive oils, air filter and spark plugs. First question on this is does anyone know the sizes of the crush washers for the drain plugs, and the o-ring for the FD fill hole?

I will also check the valve clearances and replace the shims as needed - the previous owner told me that they were all within tolerances very recently and I will trust but verify. The top end sounds lovely and smooth anyway.

I am also thinking the clutch may need replacing at some point in the future. There is no sign of it needing it right now and I understand this is a big job that involves splitting the bike apart. But hey ho - it would be a fun project at some point.

Finally, the rubber gaiter between the gearbox and final drive is beginning to look perished. There are no splits of leaks yet, and I understand this isn't critical, but I will replace this at some point as well. This doesn't appear to be all that hard a job though.

Anyway - is there anything else I should be looking at on this bike at this age and mileage?

Thanks in advance!
 
You can get a service kit from Motorworks and service needs doing every 6000
Old adage if it ain’t broke don’t fix it just ride and enjoy after your daily checks.
Welcome to the Madhouse.
 
If you think that gaitor on the shaft drive looks perished - where it meets the gearbox - I'd get onto that quickly, especially if you intend to ride it through the winter. Read a lot of those leaking and quietly corroding the UJs...

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
 
Slipperyeel said:
If you think that gaitor on the shaft drive looks perished - where it meets the gearbox - I'd get onto that quickly, especially if you intend to ride it through the winter. Read a lot of those leaking and quietly corroding the UJs...
Click to expand...

I do intend to ride it through the winter - that's why I bought the bike!

I have been looking at youtube videos of how to replace and it seems simple enough, if quite involved.

I'm on business travel right now, but will have a good look at it over the weekend and decide what to do. I would imagine it would make sense to replace the other big gaiter between the shaft and the final drive at the same time.
 
Old Codger said:
You can get a service kit from Motorworks and service needs doing every 6000
Old adage if it ain’t broke don’t fix it just ride and enjoy after your daily checks.
Welcome to the Madhouse.
Click to expand...

Thanks gents. Service kit ordered.....
 
Sounds like you're in a similar situation to me. I bought a 2007 GS on 1st August and have been itching to play with it. Mine came with just 17500 miles on, in mint condition, and was dealer serviced up to 900 miles and 18 months before I got it, and came with invoices showing all work was up to date.

After a couple of weeks of DTs, I finally allowed myself to believe it was all good, and have started putting miles on it. Couldn't resist a quick oil and filter change, but it wasn't actually necessary and I've left everything else to a later date.

I've bought several bikes where the previous owner tells me he's serviced it himself. Not always obvious at first sight, but sometimes it means everything is as good or better than it would be if I'd been doing it myself, and sometimes it just means "I fix/bodge it when it breaks".

If you met the PO, trusted him, and there are no signs of abuse on the bike, I'd suggest stop worrying about it and put some miles on... that's what I've managed to convince myself to do. Any spare money/time is going on petrol/riding. I'll pull it apart and give it a proper once over sometime before next spring. In the meantime it's running like clockwork.
 
Stu23 said:
Sounds like you're in a similar situation to me. I bought a 2007 GS on 1st August and have been itching to play with it. Mine came with just 17500 miles on, in mint condition, and was dealer serviced up to 900 miles and 18 months before I got it, and came with invoices showing all work was up to date.

After a couple of weeks of DTs, I finally allowed myself to believe it was all good, and have started putting miles on it. Couldn't resist a quick oil and filter change, but it wasn't actually necessary and I've left everything else to a later date.

I've bought several bikes where the previous owner tells me he's serviced it himself. Not always obvious at first sight, but sometimes it means everything is as good or better than it would be if I'd been doing it myself, and sometimes it just means "I fix/bodge it when it breaks".

If you met the PO, trusted him, and there are no signs of abuse on the bike, I'd suggest stop worrying about it and put some miles on... that's what I've managed to convince myself to do. Any spare money/time is going on petrol/riding. I'll pull it apart and give it a proper once over sometime before next spring. In the meantime it's running like clockwork.
Click to expand...

:) Yep - I know the feeling! I was riding it home thinking "well it all LOOKS good, and it rides well.....and I got a good deal......but.....something very major must be about to go catastrophically and very expensively wrong"

And then the yellow warning light came on and my heart jumped into my mouth as I envisioned the engine and gearbox internals turning into sharp fragments of steel.

But it was just the low fuel warning...
 
If you have time it's worth going through the BMW service schedule - you can Google - and identifying any jobs that the previous owner might not have done.

Replacing gearbox boot requires swingarm removal. This is worth doing if boot not in great shape as water ingress will affect drive shaft UJs. Sometimes it can be hard to see a small split in one of the recesses of the boot, so if it looks in bad shape generally, then replace. BMW part is better quality than Motorworks aftermarket one, so get OEM (same price!) Swingarm bearings worth a check while it is out.

If you have a copper washer set you can use a standard one on engine drain plug, but FD one is much narrower than normal so I get those and the FD drain plug o-rings from bmw/ motorworks. I buy a few at a time

Other jobs that are worth a mention are lubing throttle cables and cleaning/lubing twist grip - easy to overlook but makes a huge difference to rideability and bike control. Also throttle balance, although if sounding very smooth prob not an issue, and also centrestand bolts - not sure about your year, but on mine the nearside comes loose and shears, eventually resulting in the centre stand coming loose. So I replace those every couple of services as preventative measure. If similar on yours then this costs a couple of quid and takes 15-20 mins - but like i said, not sure about your year
 
No copper washer on the FD drain plug. It's an O-ring

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
 
NicD said:
If you have time it's worth going through the BMW service schedule - you can Google - and identifying any jobs that the previous owner might not have done.
Click to expand...

I will do exactly that. I love a checklist!

NicD said:
Replacing gearbox boot requires swingarm removal. This is worth doing if boot not in great shape as water ingress will affect drive shaft UJs. Sometimes it can be hard to see a small split in one of the recesses of the boot, so if it looks in bad shape generally, then replace. BMW part is better quality than Motorworks aftermarket one, so get OEM (same price!) Swingarm bearings worth a check while it is out.
Click to expand...

I'll take a pic tomorrow and post it so I can see what everyone thinks - but to my mind it's going to be a replace anyway. Just for peace of mind at the very least. Swingarm removal doesn't bother me - have watched a few videos now and see how it all comes apart and goes together. I have all the tools, apart from maybe a slide hammer for the pivot cover or whatever it's called - but that might not even be needed.

NicD said:
If you have a copper washer set you can use a standard one on engine drain plug, but FD one is much narrower than normal so I get those and the FD drain plug o-rings from bmw/ motorworks. I buy a few at a time
Click to expand...

I think I have all the relevant washers now. The service kit from Motorworks arrived this morning, so I have changed the engine oil this afternoon and will do the rest over the weekend. Funny little spark plugs, aren't they?

NicD said:
Other jobs that are worth a mention are lubing throttle cables and cleaning/lubing twist grip - easy to overlook but makes a huge difference to rideability and bike control. Also throttle balance, although if sounding very smooth prob not an issue, and also centrestand bolts - not sure about your year, but on mine the nearside comes loose and shears, eventually resulting in the centre stand coming loose. So I replace those every couple of services as preventative measure. If similar on yours then this costs a couple of quid and takes 15-20 mins - but like i said, not sure about your year
Click to expand...

Good tips - many thanks and I will add them to the list. I already have gizmos to aid in throttle cable lubing and a shedload of assorted lubricants. Will have look at the centre stand. My year is 2011 - would you happen to know the bolt size off the top of your head if its the same model year range.
 
So.....here's the gaiter. Took a pic as I was replacing the gearbox oil this afternoon. On a positive note, the gearbox oil was crystal clear and almost nothing on the magnetic plug.

Does anyone have a link for an online parts fiche for these bikes please? I need to order up this gaiter and the bigger FD one. That seems fine, but while I have it apart I may as well change it out.
 

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Yep. That definitely needs replacing.

I use A&S Cycles for the fiche. Just add bmw into a search for them and it'll turn up. It's American but I prefer it from Real OEM which is smoother site, and I get the details I need.


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https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/select?product=M&archive=0

Rear axle parts grouping.

There is a tool for left hand swingarm pivot which consists of cut out socket to allow you to hold pivot with allen key. if you can get cheap it makes job easier. you won't need a slide hammer to get right hand side out as it's not interference fit. Best to use heat to take some of swingarm / shock bolts out as they are threadlocked from factory. also moly grease driveshaft splines

centrestand bolts are countersunk. use the bmw ones - motorworks stainless ones are not exactly the same head size and don't seat all the way
 
Thanks for that - site bookmarked.

But feck me - those are expensive for a little bit of rubber! I thought Harley parts were pricey, but it seems BMW are just the same.

Anybody got a good recommendation for an online OEM parts store with good pricing? I presume Vines isn't going to be my friend for reasonably priced parts going forward.

As I am going to be taking the swingarm off, I am now thinking about replacing the bearings there while it's off. I'll have a look tomorrow and see if there's any free play. Can't say I've noticed anything while riding the bike though. I guess I will see what it all looks like when I take it apart.
 
NicD said:
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/select?product=M&archive=0

Rear axle parts grouping.

There is a tool for left hand swingarm pivot which consists of cut out socket to allow you to hold pivot with allen key. if you can get cheap it makes job easier. you won't need a slide hammer to get right hand side out as it's not interference fit. Best to use heat to take some of swingarm / shock bolts out as they are threadlocked from factory. also moly grease driveshaft splines

centrestand bolts are countersunk. use the bmw ones - motorworks stainless ones are not exactly the same head size and don't seat all the way
Click to expand...

Thanks for that - another site bookmarked.

Good tips - many thanks. I'll order up the boots and have a look at the tool. I have a heatgun already for tight factory fasteners (and a good appreciation of red Loctite) so no issue there.
 
That's a good mileage, and if bike sounds nice, I would not worry about the shims for a while. Seem to be very stable.

If Alternator drive belt has not been changed lately, worth doing...

Be sure to get the full dose of oil into the Final Drive, 180ml for refilling. I use a syringe and go slooowly... If a goop of it goes on the floor, you are left guessing..

Make sure brake pads inner and outer are wearing equally, if not, find out why.

Check if fork oil was changed, it does get dirty and is easy to change. 650ml each side. If any water in it, change the slider seals.

Use torque wrench and check all around the bike for loose bolts. Look for any sign of rust / fretting which might tell you something is moving. Check crash bar bolts at bottom of engine.

Check the fork brace pinch bolts. Fork bridge, lower, to slider tube 25Nm, need to be tightened slowly / alternately and evenly.

Check for any play in front wishbone ball-joint and in rear paralever arm pivots, rear wheel bearing.

Change front wheel bearings if not done yet.

Check rear disc spider bolt hole bosses for cracks..... warranty replacement applies.

I am surprised at the condition of the front gaiter, good job you saw this.

Check fuel pump discharge connection boss for cracks (left and right sides ) warranty replacement or repair applies.

If the battery is not in tiptop condition, worth replacing before the winter. Don't rely on a trickle charger, it might hide a shagged battery, which will load up the alternator as well as risk a let down somewhere inconvenient. Yuasa from Halfords is my pick, I'd prefer an Odyssey but pricey.

Haynes Manual and / or REPROM are useful.
 
Bin Ridin said:
That's a good mileage, and if bike sounds nice, I would not worry about the shims for a while. Seem to be very stable.

If Alternator drive belt has not been changed lately, worth doing...

Be sure to get the full dose of oil into the Final Drive, 180ml for refilling. I use a syringe and go slooowly... If a goop of it goes on the floor, you are left guessing..

Make sure brake pads inner and outer are wearing equally, if not, find out why.

Check if fork oil was changed, it does get dirty and is easy to change. 650ml each side. If any water in it, change the slider seals.

Use torque wrench and check all around the bike for loose bolts. Look for any sign of rust / fretting which might tell you something is moving. Check crash bar bolts at bottom of engine.

Check the fork brace pinch bolts. Fork bridge, lower, to slider tube 25Nm, need to be tightened slowly / alternately and evenly.

Check for any play in front wishbone ball-joint and in rear paralever arm pivots, rear wheel bearing.

Change front wheel bearings if not done yet.

Check rear disc spider bolt hole bosses for cracks..... warranty replacement applies.

I am surprised at the condition of the front gaiter, good job you saw this.

Check fuel pump discharge connection boss for cracks (left and right sides ) warranty replacement or repair applies.

If the battery is not in tiptop condition, worth replacing before the winter. Don't rely on a trickle charger, it might hide a shagged battery, which will load up the alternator as well as risk a let down somewhere inconvenient. Yuasa from Halfords is my pick, I'd prefer an Odyssey but pricey.

Haynes Manual and / or REPROM are useful.
Click to expand...

Excellent tips! Many thanks.

I ordered the replacement gaiter today, and will plan on sorting that out ASAP. Will also have a really good look at all swingarm/FD bearings while it's apart. I'm going to hold off on replacing the FD oil until then. I'll also add an alternator drive belt to the parts list just because. As for wheel bearings, I will check play, but will probably leave those until I need new tyres unless they obviously need doing now, then just do them then. That will probably be in the spring.

Fork oil is added to the list, and I have already been torquing all bolts to spec from the Haynes Manual. Everything looks good so far - I knocked out another 150 miles today and think I am really getting used to this huge beast.
 
Bin Ridin said:
That's a good mileage, and if bike sounds nice, I would not worry about the shims for a while. Seem to be very stable.

If Alternator drive belt has not been changed lately, worth doing...

Be sure to get the full dose of oil into the Final Drive, 180ml for refilling. I use a syringe and go slooowly... If a goop of it goes on the floor, you are left guessing..

Make sure brake pads inner and outer are wearing equally, if not, find out why.

Check if fork oil was changed, it does get dirty and is easy to change. 650ml each side. If any water in it, change the slider seals.

Use torque wrench and check all around the bike for loose bolts. Look for any sign of rust / fretting which might tell you something is moving. Check crash bar bolts at bottom of engine.

Check the fork brace pinch bolts. Fork bridge, lower, to slider tube 25Nm, need to be tightened slowly / alternately and evenly.

Check for any play in front wishbone ball-joint and in rear paralever arm pivots, rear wheel bearing.

Change front wheel bearings if not done yet.

Check rear disc spider bolt hole bosses for cracks..... warranty replacement applies.

I am surprised at the condition of the front gaiter, good job you saw this.

Check fuel pump discharge connection boss for cracks (left and right sides ) warranty replacement or repair applies.

If the battery is not in tiptop condition, worth replacing before the winter. Don't rely on a trickle charger, it might hide a shagged battery, which will load up the alternator as well as risk a let down somewhere inconvenient. Yuasa from Halfords is my pick, I'd prefer an Odyssey but pricey.

Haynes Manual and / or REPROM are useful.
Click to expand...
Good list

Didn't think of the fork oil. I should do mine. Bet it's never been changed!

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