Exhaust pipe removal on 80 g/s

michaelmy

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I have managed to undo the finned nuts and gasket collars on the exhaust, but the down pipes will not come out of the cylinder

At the other end they are stuck in / rusted on to the collector box

The stainless silencer came off nicely
The pipes are in goodish condition, and the box look salvageable - otherwise i would have cut it

Any ideas on removal from the cylinder and box ?
Am i looking at serious application of heat on this?
 
Heat may work, but vibration can be good too. If you could have got the tailpipe free then twisting the pipe in the head would have freed it off.

I've not done this but it may work . . .

Put a piece of plain round bar with a clean end face in a cordless hammer drill - set it to hammer.

Rattle the piece of bar against the pipe where it joins the head while pulling the pipe outwards. The plain end of the bar shouldn't mark the pipe.

Hopefully that will loosen any exhaust paste in the join and allow the pipe to come free.

Just an idea - but I'd be interested to hear if it works :thumb.

Bob.
 
Your exhaust tool, which you used to undo the finned nuts/collars can also be used to knock out the exhaust pipes from the head.

Place the inner U part of the tool against the curve of the downpipe and hit the end of the tool. Job done.
 
Thanks to all - will give it a go, once i acquire more heat from the DIY shop

Otherwise it may be in a van to Steptoe.............
 
On my Urals with push in headers, I just spray a load of WD-40 or GT-85 around the pipe, then use a block of wood against the header and some percussive persuasion applied via a mallet.
 
Yep, block of wood on the back of the downpipe and a mallet. Short repetitive blows to avoid denting the pipe.
 
Optimol paste on the threads when you reassemble too, prevents them corroding solid, is what I remember from my R100RS ownership. I have to revisit all these niceties because I have forgotten the majority of the tricks of ownership.
 
I still have one exhaust pipe stuck in the cylinder

Both finned nuts & squish rings came off nicely

The other exhaust pipe came out nicely

I have tried heat on the cylinder......
 
Tarka said:
On my Urals with push in headers, I just spray a load of WD-40 or GT-85 around the pipe, then use a block of wood against the header and some percussive persuasion applied via a mallet.
Click to expand...

Translation: hammer seven bells out of it! :D
 
Once one side is out, the remaining one can be twisted in the exhaust port, there is a fair bit of leverage to be had.....will it not even move this way?
 
Getting some penetrant down in there helps, and a little high speed vibration helps it penetrate.
So, out with your hammer drill and can of Nutcracker and with a suitable drift in the chuck spray and vibrate at the same time.

Learnt this constructing about a mile of timber jetty with piles driven into saturated limestone, a 500 lb weight spun eccentrically at 20,000 RPM would do what a five ton dead weight dropped 30 feet would not, seems the vibration and fluid do the trick.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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