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Thread: Gearbox Gaiter Replacement (and rear disk while we are at it!)

  1. #33
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    re the felt gasket, is that shown on the swingarm parts diagram on realoem? Might be with pivot pin parts

  2. #34
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    Great job

    Ref the stainless bolts. In this instance, strength wasn't in question. It's a corrosion issue (though strength can be an issue with stainless - rotor disc bolts for example). Not sure what material those 4 bolts go into. Is it steel or alloy? If the latter I would recommend either re-fitting the original or re-fit but with something like Duralac or similar.

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  3. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by NicD View Post
    re the felt gasket, is that shown on the swingarm parts diagram on realoem? Might be with pivot pin parts
    Ah...you know what.... I think it is!

    Looking at the swingarm/FD pivot drawing, there's the pivot pin itself, then three other parts - "gasket ring", "o-ring" and "spacer ring". None of those came out when I pulled the pivot pin. So maybe one of them is the fibre washer and the other two are hidden behind it. I'll have a closer look later but I don't really want to pull the felt washer in case it fully disintegrates!

    Should I / shouldn't I ? Hmmm....it's probably not a part that anyone has in stock immediately....

  4. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slipperyeel View Post
    Great job

    Ref the stainless bolts. In this instance, strength wasn't in question. It's a corrosion issue (though strength can be an issue with stainless - rotor disc bolts for example). Not sure what material those 4 bolts go into. Is it steel or alloy? Of the latter I would recommend either re-fitting the original or re-fit but with something like Duralac or similar.

    Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
    Agreed - and I wouldn't use stainless for rotor bolts either.

    In this case, they go into the steel of the frame itself. Torquing them pulls the pivot pin into the swingarm and side loads it.

    I could of course just buy some new zinc passivated bolts like the OEM ones....

  5. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by adm1 View Post
    Agreed - and I wouldn't use stainless for rotor bolts either.

    In this case, they go into the steel of the frame itself. Torquing them pulls the pivot pin into the swingarm and side loads it.

    I could of course just buy some new zinc passivated bolts like the OEM ones....
    If it's into steel it'll be fine . Leaving it looking good

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  6. #38
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    The fibre washer is called shim on the bmw parts system
    overland and classic

  7. #39
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    https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/par...&q=33117684996
    Think that’s it,will check pt no tomorrow
    overland and classic

  8. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeyboy View Post
    https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/par...&q=33117684996
    Think that’s it,will check pt no tomorrow
    I think that is probably it as well. Pics of that part number on the web show a much lighter coloured material, but of course if it has not yet been crushed and soaked with oil it will look completely different to the part in my photo.

    If that is the part, then apparently there will be two other parts underneath it and on top of the "needle sleeve" - "o-ring" 07119904693 and "spacer ring" 33177672817. It doesn't look like there could be in the photo, but I won't know until I pull the crumbling one out and have a proper look.


  9. #41
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    When I think of how the FD swings down, just for servicing, I reckon it gets a much longer life as a consequence - compared to the 1150 which is left with a really narrow range of movement for its entire life.



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  10. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Bean View Post
    On my 2007 bike Staburags (off-white sealing grease) was used to seal the drive gaiter to the swing arm, it's thick, sticky and waterproof.

    Same is used on my LC.

    The grease used on the driveshaft splines was Optimoly paste by Castrol.
    Are you sure Staburags was used just for the sealing of the gaitors? have you seen the cost of it?

    I'd be really surprised... I'd hazard a guess you've just seen calcium grease..

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  11. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slipperyeel View Post
    Are you sure Staburags was used just for the sealing of the gaitors? have you seen the cost of it?

    I'd be really surprised... I'd hazard a guess you've just seen calcium grease..

    Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
    Reasonably sure. I bought a 50g tube of the stuff from an eBay seller for £20 and it goes a long way.

    Having had a driveshaft snap due to the boot not correctly seating and suffering water ingress, I'm happy to pay the cost. You could argue that had I dropped the FD at every 6k service I would have spotted the corrosion and could of avoided the rear wheel locking on a dark, wet M25. Filtering at around 40mph between lanes 2&3 and a sideways slide to a halt in lane 1, just ahead of an artic.

    Whenever the boot is disturbed I now make sure a smear is added.

    I think it used to be used for lubing the splines but (again) reasonably sure Optimoly is now the official product.

  12. #44
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    Right, back to spacers, gasket rings and such.....

    I had a good look at the final drive just now and I have figured out the parts.

    First off, it's not (to my mind) entirely logical the way that these things are shown on the realOEM parts finder. You need to flip between the swingarm drawing and the final drive drawing to figure out how they all fit together

    On the left hand side of the bike, in the final drive part of the pivot there is the needle roller bearing (33117684640). This is shown on the final drive drawing.



    On the left hand side of this bearing is the "gasket ring" (33117684996). This is the part that is knackered in my pics above - and below once removed. Vines BMW just happen to have one in stock for about a quid!



    Then on the right hand side of the bearing there is an o-ring (07119904693) and a spacer (33177672817). For some reason, these are all shown on the swingarm drawing. Vines also have these in stock, but I don't need them. You can just about make them out in the photo below.



    Just to confuse things, the right hand side of the final drive pivot contains an angular ball bearing, with a lock ring on one side of it and an o-ring and spacer on the other side. These are all shown on the final drive drawing.

    Personally, I would have put the three parts that sit beside the left hand side bearing on the same drawing as the bearing. Just like they did with the right hand side bearing. But maybe that's just me....

    Anyway, rambling over and problem solved. I'll pick up the new gasket ring today and all will be well.

  13. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Bean View Post
    Reasonably sure. I bought a 50g tube of the stuff from an eBay seller for £20 and it goes a long way.

    Having had a driveshaft snap due to the boot not correctly seating and suffering water ingress, I'm happy to pay the cost. You could argue that had I dropped the FD at every 6k service I would have spotted the corrosion and could of avoided the rear wheel locking on a dark, wet M25. Filtering at around 40mph between lanes 2&3 and a sideways slide to a halt in lane 1, just ahead of an artic.

    Whenever the boot is disturbed I now make sure a smear is added.

    I think it used to be used for lubing the splines but (again) reasonably sure Optimoly is now the official product.
    Bloody hell, sounds like a close shave you don't want to repeat!

    Still not convinced you're using that Staburags in the right way. Silicone grease or white calcium is I believe the right stuff. But I'm open to being corrected!

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  14. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeyboy View Post
    https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/par...&q=33117684996
    Think that’s it,will check pt no tomorrow
    Here you go
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  15. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steptoe View Post
    Here you go
    :-) I have one in my hand right now! Also a new FD breather, speed sensor o-ring and disc bolts. And a set of brake pads. Hopefully the disc itself will arrive this afternoon.

  16. #48
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    Yay!

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