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Thread: Gearbox Gaiter Replacement (and rear disk while we are at it!)

  1. #49
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    The brake disc arrived and is now installed and torqued to spec.



    Double Yay!

  2. #50
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    Once you have refitted the FD 'Knuckle' back onto the swingarm and retorqued it, grab it and try to wrestle it from side to side (relative the the swingarm casting) feeling for play.

    Last time I had weird handling with my GSA I found the knuckle had slight side play, yet on strip down the trunnion showed as little wear/brinelling as yours does in your picture. My needle rollers were fine. I replaced the trunnion pin, deep collared nut and felt washer and all was good with mine again.

    Looking at your pics that is the new type of brake disk/wheel carrier flange as it is made of steel, the ones that cracked and were recalled were all an aluminium alloy.

    If I remove my GSA driveshaft again in future, I am going to give it a dust over with a rattle can of primer and chassis black paint as they always seem to get light surface rusting.

    The upper paralever arm securing nut (crushed oval nut) on the FD to reaction arm is meant to be used once only but I gave mine a squeeze in the vice and reused it with a bit of thread lock. Naughty perhaps, but it was a Sunday and the bike dealers were shut. It hasn't come undone.
    ADAM

  3. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pukmeister View Post
    Once you have refitted the FD 'Knuckle' back onto the swingarm and retorqued it, grab it and try to wrestle it from side to side (relative the the swingarm casting) feeling for play.

    Last time I had weird handling with my GSA I found the knuckle had slight side play, yet on strip down the trunnion showed as little wear/brinelling as yours does in your picture. My needle rollers were fine. I replaced the trunnion pin, deep collared nut and felt washer and all was good with mine again.

    Looking at your pics that is the new type of brake disk/wheel carrier flange as it is made of steel, the ones that cracked and were recalled were all an aluminium alloy.

    If I remove my GSA driveshaft again in future, I am going to give it a dust over with a rattle can of primer and chassis black paint as they always seem to get light surface rusting.

    The upper paralever arm securing nut (crushed oval nut) on the FD to reaction arm is meant to be used once only but I gave mine a squeeze in the vice and reused it with a bit of thread lock. Naughty perhaps, but it was a Sunday and the bike dealers were shut. It hasn't come undone.
    Good tips - many thanks. Will check as you suggest when I put the FD back on tomorrow.

    Also thanks for teaching me a new word. Brinelling. Lovely!

  4. #52
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    Lateral play is controlled by the double row ball race on the opposite side to the needle bearing.����

  5. #53
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    Right then, I put the final drive back on this evening. Checked for free play after torquing to spec and there was none.

    Stuck the brake calliper back on with new brake pads and installed the speed sensor.

    That's as far as I can go until the rear shock comes back, hopefully early next week.

    Then it'll be a matter of an hour to get the last bits back together and go see how it rides.




  6. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kenny Rodkiss View Post
    Lateral play is controlled by the double row ball race on the opposite side to the needle bearing.����
    Which is why I replaced both the trunnion both sides on mine to eliminate the small amount of play present. It doesn't matter which side the play exists, at the end of the day there shouldn't be any and a few thou at the knuckle feels a lot worse at the tyre.
    ADAM

  7. #55
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    That fibre washer is a separate part. Looking at the receipt of when I ordered the parts for my recent rear end refurb it has Stock Code 33117684996 which could be the part number... It cost £2 and is called shim, for some reason.

  8. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steptoe View Post
    Here you go
    Quote Originally Posted by crawling finn View Post
    That fibre washer is a separate part. Looking at the receipt of when I ordered the parts for my recent rear end refurb it has Stock Code 33117684996 which could be the part number... It cost £2 and is called shim, for some reason.
    So it is.
    79 suzuki ts100ern
    83 Honda XL500R
    97 Suzuki TL1000S
    99 Suzuki TL1000S
    06 BMW r1200gsa

  9. #57
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    Denz0 has finished rebuilding my shock and it should be on the way back to me tomorrow. Looking forward to testing it out. Here's a few pics - it definitely looks like it was due the rebuild!




    Before.....


    And after!

    Denz0 has added a 6mm shim which should result in a 15-17mm lowering for the bike, and also put in a new, somewhat stiffer spring to give less sag and compensate for the lower shock.

  10. #58
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    State of the shock doesn't seem consistent with the photos of the rest of the bike which looked really good

    Also, if lowering the rear end, are you adjusting the front end? geometry will change slightly and reduce weight on front end. Might feel diff esp if luggage

  11. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by NicD View Post
    State of the shock doesn't seem consistent with the photos of the rest of the bike which looked really good

    Also, if lowering the rear end, are you adjusting the front end? geometry will change slightly and reduce weight on front end. Might feel diff esp if luggage
    I know....mind you, when I bought the bike the rust on the shock spring and the split gaiter were really the only things that jumped out at me. But after the mileage equivalent of more than twice around the world I'm not surprised it needed some TLC.

    On the front end, when I get around to doing that I will probably have Luke rebuild the front shock as well and adjust it accordingly. Front end will be next on the list for a good going over as I have already done the engine and back end.

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