Its easy enough to unbolt the FD knuckle then slide it rearwards away from the bike complete with driveshaft, it then becomes possible to use a vice to hold the shaft. The vice will act as a heatsink if you choose to use a blowlamp.
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I may have misread your reply slightly.
When you say "not getting a bearing puller in there"..
Is the driveshaft still attached to the bike?
In my case, we had to release the swingarm, and brought it back to where we would get access to the forward splines and managed to release the driveshaft from the bike. Then, as we twisted and pulled the driveshaft, we managed to get the shaft back far enough to where we could attach the tools. But like you said, different bikes...
Its easy enough to unbolt the FD knuckle then slide it rearwards away from the bike complete with driveshaft, it then becomes possible to use a vice to hold the shaft. The vice will act as a heatsink if you choose to use a blowlamp.
If the fwd / gearbox end has detached, can it not be drawn out of the swing arm with the drive attached.
Then suspend the shaft by the gearbox UJ and strap the drive end through the UJ
apply heat to the main drive /spline cup and wind the strap up to pull the drive (as per Steptoes suggestion)
I'd just do that applying and releasing pressure until it pops
I understand that the bolt is thread locked and requires a heat gun, I will need to dig this out tomorrow and watch some videos of other people taking the FD off.
First of all, assuming we are discussing the pivot bolt that holds the swing arm to the final drive.....I can tell you from very, very recent experience that the bolt is definitely thread locked. Lots of BMW red thread lock.
It was one of the hardest fasteners I have ever had to undo. I did it yesterday. It really does require that you get quite a lot of heat into the bolt itself. Heat it, then allow the heat to penetrate, then heat it a bit more. Rinse and repeat until it is good and hot all the way through.
Even then. you will need a good, long 1/2" breaker bar to shift it if it is anything like mine.
I had the bike on the centre stand, put a T50?? socket on the breaker bar and put that on the left hand side. Then I put a 1/2 ratchet with a 24mm?? socket on the right side and rotated everything so the breaker bar was held solid in place by the floor. Then I put a bit of pipe on the ratchet to extend the lever and gave it some welly. It came off after a lot of pressure, and was even then really hard to wind out.
Make sure you use heat and good quality, proper sized tools - or you will end up stripping the fasteners and that will be bad.
EDIT - if you can get a good impact driver into the left hand side with a T50 bit, use lots of heat and brace the 24mm nut on the right against the ground with a bar, then it should come off fairly easily. I think.
I just put a breaker bar on mine ans turned it. It went eventually
I just put a breaker bar on mine ans turned it. It went eventually
Mine was a total cnut. With very real danger of stripping the fasteners at every point of the journey.
...............
Can anyone tell me, please, if the driveshaft itself shortens and lengthens, or do the rear splines take up the slight shortening and lengthening of the distance between the gearbox and FD as the swing arm articulates?
Best,
Tom
For anyone who gets as far as I did and wants to get the thing back together:
[*]Don't listen to anyone who tells you it can't be done
I think the only thing that was said couldn’t be done (by me) was fitting a new front gaiter with the shaft still attached to gearbox output shaft ... unless you remove the swing arm