Drive shaft removal

Petefinlay

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Hi Guys,

I'm new to the forum, so forgive me if I ask questions that have been asked before!

Looking to check the splines and re-grease them on my 2017 GS as it looks like water ingress can cause nasty problems!
I can find plenty of info on checking the rear splines where the shaft connects to the final drive, but not much info on removing the shaft to check the front splines. From what I have found, the shaft is held in by a retaining spring clip and a lever on the far end will dislodge the shaft to get it out. But will I get it back in easily with the problem possibly being that the universal joint will stop me lining up the splines?

Or is the possible corrosion problems only with the back splines? Seams a shame to do just half a job?

Why does the final drive oil have to be drained when dropping the rear drive & is the magnetic drain plug up to the job, looks like some riders put in stronger ones?



Would be grateful for any advice.

Cheers,

Pete
 
you don't have to drain it to do the job..you just take out the speedo sensor then just plug it with something

Getting it off the front splines is easy, but there again, you don't have to pull it fully off to grease the splines, just pull it back. If it does come off, you may have to jack the rear arm up a bit to enable you to get it back on easy.
With it pulled back you can get in with a brush and do the male splines.. that should be fine as it will transfer to the female side. You don't see much water that end so it will be a lot better than the other end typically.
Then just push it back in and over the clip...
The problem comes trying to get the bloody tie wrap back on as you can't get access to the inside especially it you have the gear assist fitted.
 
Don't worry about the front shaft/gearbox output splines.
The corrosion happens on the rear/final drive splines.
 
but your not doing it just for the corrosion protection... any splines in any application should be correctly lubricated. it's metal to metal if not. Yes, I accept the top one does not move relative to each other much, but when I inspected mine on my first LC they were dry... nothing at all... The drive needs to be transmitted through a grease film...
 
Here's a pictorial view in YouTube that might help you if it's your first time doing this.
https://youtu.be/c1_1gPRA274?t=834
This link should start at about 14:00 in to this Part 2 of 6 to the end and about the first 5:00 min into part 3 of 6.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x_lHZPbSJ_s

If water is present in the Paralever area, the entire driveshaft and front connection to the transmission have been living in a wet/moist environment and eventually will exhibit signs of broken down lubricant and rust on any exposed metal...unless you inspect YOUR front driveshaft U-joint, there is no telling from someone else's claims that it's OK...period.

I have completely removed several driveshafts from the Paralever on our bikes and it usually requires a similar "wire suspender" technique or small screwdriver lift to get the front tip of the U-joint to be raised up some to engage the transmission splined output shaft.
The spring "C" clip is captured within the driveshaft end of the splined connection, so no chance it can come loose and fall into the Paralever.

Here's the part number for the special cable tie to secure the front accordion boot to the transmission.
33177687623

IMG_1587-M.jpg
IMG_1590-M.jpg
 
Special cable tie? Really? I didn't use a special cable tie. I used an ordinary one that was the right size. B&Q sourced.
 
I split the rear of my FD last week , 2016 with 9k on it and it was just starting to rust. Greased the splines and used ACF50 from a can to squirt it up to the front of the shaft. Im happy there is now ACF50 on the front so didn't bother pulling the shaft right out as only the rear slides
 
ChazzyB said:
Special cable tie? Really? I didn't use a special cable tie. I used an ordinary one that was the right size. B&Q sourced.
Click to expand...

300mm x 3.6mm cable tie worked perfectly. You need a bit of length to feed it though over the top, catch it at the bottom and then slide it back up the outside. Ooo err missus!

I did it today. It's a little fiddly and probably easier if you have weird long pianist's fingers.
 
Thanks for all the advice guys.
I pulled the splines out of the rear drive and there was a good layer of grease and no signs of water ingress. I cleaned everything, regressed the splines and reassembled.
I decided to leave the front end alone after finding the rear ok, the bike has only done 12k.
I drained the oil as I wanted to check the magnetic drain plug. The dealer mechanic had never bothered to clean it out, it was full of muck, but just dust sludge, no bits of steel 😁
There was signs of wear on the rubber cover from the universal joint. I degreased it and glued a bicycle inner tube patch over it to give it a bit more meat. I will check it before the next 6k service and regrease the front splines then.
Thanks again for all the advice.
 
adm1 said:
300mm x 3.6mm cable tie worked perfectly. You need a bit of length to feed it though over the top, catch it at the bottom and then slide it back up the outside. Ooo err missus!

I did it today. It's a little fiddly and probably easier if you have weird long pianist's fingers.
Click to expand...

What I did was pre-apply a good curve to the new tie, feed it in from the top, then catch the bottom end with another cable tie already done up leaving a little loop.
 
Hi Guys,
When I come to grease the front splines, is it possible to pull the rubber back, disengage the spring and stick some grease in?
If there is a bit play and I work it back and forward it would get grease on a the splines. If so, how difficult would it be to get the spring clip to engage again?
Is this feasible or do I need to drop the rear drive again? Or am I just being lazy? 😁
Cheers, Pete
 
you should of done it when doing the rear... its the only way
 
beaver said:
but your not doing it just for the corrosion protection... any splines in any application should be correctly lubricated. it's metal to metal if not. Yes, I accept the top one does not move relative to each other much, but when I inspected mine on my first LC they were dry... nothing at all... The drive needs to be transmitted through a grease film...
Click to expand...

After 30 years working on all models of BMW's i've yet to see a gearbox output shaft/ front driveshaft spline worn or damaged.
I've seen gearbox output shafts snapped off, but that's another problem and nothing to do with lack of spline lubrication.

The final drive end is another story. They've always been problematic going back to 1983 and the first of the K series.
 
Steptoe said:
After 30 years working on all models of BMW's i've yet to see a gearbox output shaft/ front driveshaft spline worn or damaged.
I've seen gearbox output shafts snapped off, but that's another problem and nothing to do with lack of spline lubrication.

The final drive end is another story. They've always been problematic going back to 1983 and the first of the K series.
Click to expand...

You may be right, but good Engineering practice is never to have metal bearing against metal... so mine are greased ;)
 
From what I've read, a thin film of molybdenum disulphide is all that's required on the splines. The moly doesn't have to be delivered in grease and probably isn't at the factory.
 
ChazzyB said:
From what I've read, a thin film of molybdenum disulphide is all that's required on the splines. The moly doesn't have to be delivered in grease and probably isn't at the factory.
Click to expand...

I'll pull back the front boot & get some Molly oil into the splines with a hypodermic, that should do it if there is no grease there.

Thanks again everyone for your help.
 
Petefinlay said:
I'll pull back the front boot & get some Molly oil into the splines with a hypodermic, that should do it if there is no grease there.

Thanks again everyone for your help.
Click to expand...

For the spline and white grease for the boot only a tad is needed on the boot.

 
Totally agree about checking splines

This is my 4th GS and by far the worst RE spline / drive shaft condition.
My bike is a 2015 with 16,700 miles..

I think this is damned atrocious..
Its been wire brushed thoroughly and "Dremelled" with a mini wire brush tool to remove the rust..
Rather than paint it I mixed a concoction of Marine grease and the thick Moly past used on the splines and then smeared it all over the shaft.
I used a long artists brush to get it into and all over the knuckle joints.
Even with marigolds on it was a filthy job to do. I am confident any remaining rust will be stopped in its tracks.

S
 

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Speedy1959 said:
This is my 4th GS and by far the worst RE spline / drive shaft condition.
My bike is a 2015 with 16,700 miles..

I think this is damned atrocious..
Its been wire brushed thoroughly and "Dremelled" with a mini wire brush tool to remove the rust..
Rather than paint it I mixed a concoction of Marine grease and the thick Moly past used on the splines and then smeared it all over the shaft.
I used a long artists brush to get it into and all over the knuckle joints.
Even with marigolds on it was a filthy job to do. I am confident any remaining rust will be stopped in its tracks.

S
Click to expand...

Unless you wiped it away it appears there's no Staburags sealing grease to stop water ingress?
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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