Drive shaft removal

Mr Bean said:
Unless you wiped it away it appears there's no Staburags sealing grease to stop water ingress?
Click to expand...

Hi Mr Bean
No I didnt wipe it away!! There wasnt a hint of any white sealing grease..
I did however apply plenty upon refitting the boot..

On the subject of sealing....
Why bother??
I ask because there is a large square shaped hole at the base of the swing arm below where the rear knuckle joint is !!

I will try to photo it via a mirror.
 
Speedy1959 said:
I did however apply plenty upon refitting the boot..

On the subject of sealing....
Why bother??
Click to expand...

Hopefully, you applied the correct grease, as nothing (in my limited experience) matches the sealing of staburags. Water running in from the top is more likely to become an issue than anything from below.

I had a driveshaft snap and cause a lock-up on a wet M25 a few years ago on my old hexhead. I now make sure the joint is as it was designed to be from the factory when new.
 
Just been outside and managed to photo the underside of the rear diff area with a mirror.
You can see what I mean by the large open hole..
What is to stop road spray / puddles / river crossings to get inside of there ??
 

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All you can see up there is the bottom of the bellows. It is sealed around the drive shaft.
 
Speedy1959 said:
Just been outside and managed to photo the underside of the rear diff area with a mirror.
You can see what I mean by the large open hole..
What is to stop road spray / puddles / river crossings to get inside of there ??
Click to expand...

did you look properly? the answer is no btw
 
Done mine today and was pleasantly surprised, 30000miles of on and off road riding including river crossings.
3bbc5e8c87e1fda148cc76fe005b8ebb.jpg
 
It looks like there's remnants of the Staburags sealing grease visible.
 
I did not use Staburags, I used marine grease to seal the gator and moly for the shaft.

I intend to reseal every 12 months, i do not ride in winter so time will tell.
 
Why did you use marine grease to seal the gaiter instead of the recommended Starburags NBU 30 PTM stuff is it better ?

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
 
I used the same as petefinlay the Castro’s Optimol Paste.
It works fine and is sticky enough. Plus it’s easy to get hold of.
Marine grease is brilliant stuff as not only is it waterproof it is salt waterproof.
I have some Evinrude marine grease.
In my books ANYTHING is better than nothing !
 
Micko123 said:
Why did you use marine grease to seal the gaiter instead of the recommended Starburags NBU 30 PTM stuff is it better ?

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

It was what I had in the garage. It's quite sticky. That Starburags might be the right stuff and ideal for longer periods between re application, however I seen other bikes where it has gone hard. As I am doing mine every 12 months and only ride for 8 think i will be ok.
Marine grease is clear which I like.
 
Anybody know the part number of the C-clip at the gearbox output shaft? The one that sits in the drive shaft.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
 
Old thread i know but i`ve been wondering: can the shaft be withdrawn from the swingarm once unhooked form the engine splines or does the UJ get in the way?
 
Hann said:
Old thread i know but i`ve been wondering: can the shaft be withdrawn from the swingarm once unhooked form the engine splines or does the UJ get in the way?
Click to expand...
Drop the rear bevel down and withdraw the shift after unclipped the C clip..

Or just search Utube for tutorials..
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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