R1150GS Rear wheel damage

tykel · Oct 14, 2019

So... I accidently left a U-lock in my rear wheel when setting off today. Lesson learned, need a reminder cable for that too!

Now, the damage. One spoke was sheared off, leaving part of it in the rim. Another next to it might be bent, see photo.
The mudguard was pulled off, it looks like the plastic gave around the 3 rivets holding it in place.
Lastly, the rear caliper bleed valve was sheared off.

I hobbled out of the underground car park and babied it the less than a mile home at bicycle speed... Now it's sleeping under its cover.

How bad is this likely to be to repair? Do shops typically carry spare spokes like this? And from schematics the bleed valve looks replaceable in isolation. Mudguard I might be able to superglue/bondo...

Slipperyeel · Oct 14, 2019

Sorry for that. We've all bloody done it at some point...

The acceptable run-out of the rear wheel is quite large. But for me, a missing spoke is a slightly bigger deal than a bent one...

If it were me I'd keep riding, but be actively looking for a secondhand wheel or a re-build pronto. I don't know how often you use the bike or type of riding, but we're entering pothole season soon (assuming it ever ended

) and hitting a bad one might not what you want- though these spoked wheels are pretty robust.

I am sure others will be along with good suggestions

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

Deleted account 200123001 · Oct 14, 2019

The spokes are normally sold as complete wheel kits.

The good news is that you can just replace the two spokes without having to true the wheel as you can't true a BMW rim like a conventional rim. The hard part is getting the old ones out. They are utter bastards!!!

I might have some odd spokes that might fit.

tykel · Oct 14, 2019

blueranger said:
The spokes are normally sold as complete wheel kits.

The good news is that you can just replace the two spokes without having to true the wheel as you can't true a BMW rim like a conventional rim. The hard part is getting the old ones out. They are utter bastards!!!

I might have some odd spokes that might fit.

Thanks! After watching some videos on Youtube it looks doable. I ordered a few from Motorworks and a new bleed valve.

I want to try and get the spokes fixed myself, and ride the bike to shop if necessary to avoid a costly tow. Wife is not as enthusiastic...

Give the bleed valve is broken and exposed in this way, is the braking fluid compromised and thus am I in for a full brake flush/bleed now?

Deleted account 200123001 · Oct 14, 2019

Bike shop will be little help and most wheel builders detest bmw wheels.

Once you have the old ones out the new ones are torqued up to about 5nm or something tiny if I recall. There is a pdf on the Tinterweb somewhere about building an 1150gs wheel from scratch. Turns it into an over complicated affair but it will confirm the setting.
So youll need an appropriate low range torque wrench.

Don't get sucked into to the fear mongering associated with bmw wheels.... If you can get the old ones out you've don't the hard bit! Put your newones in then tighten by hand very little force required not much more then you can apply with your finger tips holding the Allen key/torx key.

Try pressing your brake pedal see if any comes out....

Replacing will require a bleed, but since its the rear it's a doddle anyway unless you have an abs version.

Steptoe · Oct 14, 2019

I wouldn’t worry to much, I once drove around for 18 months with 2 broken spokes. I finally bought 2 and fitted them, but as said, the outer section in the rim are a bastard to get out as they get firmly stuck due to corrosion - also for the rear brake buy a stainless nipple and nipple holder from Motorworks. Don’t super glue the rear plastic guard in place, it won’t last 5 minutes

gog · Oct 15, 2019

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-R115...660937?hash=item2619814ac9:g:ew0AAOSwYh9cCk3n

another option.

i took my rear mudguard off ages ago and noticed absolutely no difference whatsoever. if you want it youre welcome to it if you cover postage.

tykel · Oct 15, 2019

Steptoe said:
I wouldn’t worry to much, I once drove around for 18 months with 2 broken spokes. I finally bought 2 and fitted them, but as said, the outer section in the rim are a bastard to get out as they get firmly stuck due to corrosion - also for the rear brake buy a stainless nipple and nipple holder from Motorworks. Don’t super glue the rear plastic guard in place, it won’t last 5 minutes

OK, that's good to hear. Were your spokes next to each other, and were they bent or actually broken off like mine?
Mudguard :thumby:

gog said:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-R115...660937?hash=item2619814ac9:g:ew0AAOSwYh9cCk3n

another option.

i took my rear mudguard off ages ago and noticed absolutely no difference whatsoever. if you want it youre welcome to it if you cover postage.

The wheel is plan B if my efforts to replace the spokes fail.

I might take you up on the mudguard offer, that is kind of you.

Slipperyeel · Oct 15, 2019

Steptoe said:
I wouldn’t worry to much, I once drove around for 18 months with 2 broken spokes. I finally bought 2 and fitted them, but as said, the outer section in the rim are a bastard to get out as they get firmly stuck due to corrosion - also for the rear brake buy a stainless nipple and nipple holder from Motorworks. Don’t super glue the rear plastic guard in place, it won’t last 5 minutes

Interesting. They're even more robust than I imagined!

Was it out of alignment much with the missing spokes?

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Steptoe · Oct 15, 2019

tykel said:
OK, that's good to hear. Were your spokes next to each other, and were they bent or actually broken off like mine?
.

Both next to each other, caused by large stone while off road. Felt the thump but didn’t notice until couple days later. Wheel was still true.

Ian J Hartley · Oct 15, 2019

The spokes are available, and provided you can get the remains of the broken spokes out to replace them, it shouldn’t be too difficult to DIY.

Thinking outside the box.......I’m assuming that all spokes in static unloaded wheel will be under equal tension. That being the case, then provided they are all made from the same material, they should all make the same ringing sound when tapped.

Just tighten up your replacement spokes until they make the same ringing sound as all the rest. You should be pretty close to how it was before.

Simples....

albatross · Oct 15, 2019

Wheel

Just in case you need a replacement
Never mind this wheel, James Sherlock sooo much cheaper...missed that...cheers

tykel · Oct 16, 2019

Yeah James Sherlock has a couple at GBP 199.- right now.

ynotbiker · Oct 16, 2019

also ebay got one for 1100 gs with discs tyre ect same wheel as 1150 gs think day left 140 posted.

tykel · Oct 16, 2019

Got my spokes, grub screws and bleed valve from Motorworks (very good as always). Now to find some time to do the work.

I managed to get the existing grub screw and then the nipple (which will be reused) off the broken spoke, which was simple enough. Need to do the same on the bent spoke still on the wheel, and then do the reverse operation.

Starting to wonder how I will go about fixing the rear caliper though - all that remains of the sheared bleed valve is in the thread. I've not tapped anything before, and I do wonder if there is a risk of metal bits getting stuck in the brake line?
EDIT: Or will unbolting that black hex nut around it, remove it?

dubster · Oct 16, 2019

looks like you need a circlip jobbie for the end of the caliper pin also, or you could improvise something with some wire twisted around

tykel · Oct 17, 2019

Tried tapping out the stuck bit of spoke this morning. It's flush with the rim, which is making it super awkward to tap. I've already dented the rim around the spoke bit. :doh

For the next try I'll be needing a jig of some sort - maybe a square piece of wood with a nail halfway through, that I can use to drive the spoke out with stability. Maybe add some lube on it first, too.

West coast gser · Oct 17, 2019

tykel said:
Tried tapping out the stuck bit of spoke this morning. It's flush with the rim, which is making it super awkward to tap. I've already dented the rim around the spoke bit.

For the next try I'll be needing a jig of some sort - maybe a square piece of wood with a nail halfway through, that I can use to drive the spoke out with stability. Maybe add some lube on it first, too.

Try heat..that usually works ..as the rim is alloy it should heat up quicker than the spoke then try tapping it out

Steptoe · Oct 17, 2019

tykel said:
Starting to wonder how I will go about fixing the rear caliper though - all that remains of the sheared bleed valve is in the thread. I've not tapped anything before, and I do wonder if there is a risk of metal bits getting stuck in the brake line?
EDIT: Or will unbolting that black hex nut around it, remove it?

I said in an earlier post. Buy the stainless bleed nipple holder. This replaces the black hex nut. Then fit a stainless bleed nipple in the stainless bleed nipple holder.

Grizzly · Oct 18, 2019

As Steptoe has said, remove the hexagonal adaptor and replace it with a new stainless adaptor + new stainless nipple - both from Motobins Items 800485 and 800495 - 10 minute job.
Removing the spoke end

- I would recommend getting hold of a good quality pin punch. Spoke measures 3.40mm so an imperial size punch would be best as 1/8" punch would be 3.2mm.

Cheers....................Grizzly :beerjug:

R1150GS Rear wheel damage

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