Painting the rear sub frame

stratblue

stratblue

genoQian
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I've just had enough of the shitty looking rear sub frame on my Hexhead. When Interstellar archeologists alight upon the charred husk of our planet many millions of years from now and start digging through the sedimented layers of Primark clothing and single use plastic bags that have come to signify our brief tenure on this planet, I'd like them to discover my still immaculately repainted sub frame, glistening in the twilight of our dying sun. I only want to do it once, so what is the best way to get a permanent half decent finish? Thanks.
 
Calling bendy toy.
Calling bendy toy.

He did his a few years ago.
There might be thread about it.



Mysteriously he's not been around for a while.........
 
I had mine done last year - bike split and subframe removed, blasted and re painted.

It was very expensive...................


As I went feck it and bought new Wilbers suspension at the same time :D
 
Easiest way to do it would be to have it bead blasted and powder coated. I did a full Harley frame the year before last and it only cost £120.
 
I did mine with some sand paper to remove any loose stuff and some hammerite smooth. Looks better than the shitty rust anyway.
 
I used to have them shotblasted and powder coated for £60 at Jura Spray in mitcham.
That was a few years ago so that might have increased in price since then.

But it's a bastard time consuming job removing the rear subframe. Much easier on an 1100/1150. :D
 
The problem with galvanizing is that you have to drill vent / drain holes in all the right places.
Also it stands a good chance of warping if they are not very careful with it.
I have done a few and had them powder coated, but you have to impress on the coaters that it needs to be a thorough job as it takes a day to dismantle and a day to resemble.
Don`t be shy a reject it if it is not 100%.
 
Whilst not having done it on a bike, I did quite bit of rustproofing on my classic landy. As Mistacat says, venting for hot dipping is a bugger for warping or just exploding any sealed sections. However, I've also seen powder coating that has failed due to slight damage or imperfections, whereby the moisture gets underneath the plastic coat and starts a rust pocket which eventually bursts the plastic topcoat further, increasing the rate of damage.

I would wire brush the loose rust away (manually or a drill with wire cup) , then use a rust converter (places like 'Frosts automotive restorers' are a good place to look at), before applying a coat of 'Zinga' cold galvanising paint. I bought a tin of the stuff to paint on with a brush as the spray cans had a habit of stopping working.

I grit blasted a new bulkhead, then painted it in zinga, then used yellow yacht paint and sprayed waxoyl into the side boxes. It was still in excellent condition when we parted company...
 
No idea, why that post came up twice..

However, the only book I actually read at Uni was on Corrosion control.
 
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Yep there are a couple of drain holes in the sub frame, You will need to drill in excess of another 30 to keep the galvaniser happy.
If you don`t drill them they will and charge you for it.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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