r100gs in New Zealand, I'm not. Info needed please

Vulpine2

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Greetings all. I'm in the UK but my parents live in New Zealand and whilst I've managed a couple of road trips over there in the last decade bike rental is hugely expensive and restricts where you can ride - it almost made sense to buy my own bike and leave it there... Which, now that I can visit more regularly, is how I've ended up with a rather scruffy 1989 white/blue GS garaged 12,000 miles away!

Bought last February, I briefly owned exactly the same version a few years back so I knew it would tick all the boxes for me. This particular one has patchy service history and indeterminate mileage, probably around 100k. Once bought, I changed the oil and set off in hope for a few weeks round the South Island, like you do. Trip completed without any great issues, but there are clearly some things that need looking at sooner rather than later and I plan on giving the bike some TLC when I go back over in a few months time.

Most obvious (bar the oil leaks round the cylinders) is that it's a poor starter. I'm taking a lithium battery and new HT leads with me from UK, making up the latter myself as I recently bought the kit to make up leads for my UK bike (1992 Ducati). Can anybody give me length, centre eyelet to centre eyelet, of the leads? And eyelet diameters? Also, any suggestions as to why neutral light sometimes takes a couple of seconds to come on - which gave me the occasional palpitation when offroad in the middle of nowhere given that starter won't work unless it's lit?.
Any info appreciated, cheers.
 
Starting.... maybe the tappers need adjusting, as when my tappers are tight the bike is hard to start.
neutral light: maybe you need a new switch (not a hard job, just need to prise the spacer out once you have removed the rear engine through bolt.)...or could just be the wires onto the neutral switch may be loose, or dirty....
 
Lithium batteries cannot be checked in as hold baggage and max individual capacity is 100Wh for cabin baggage
 
Motobatts are cheap out here and a stock non BMW specific 20 AH fits with plenty of room to spare and works fine. Buy it face to face and check for 12.6 V before you accept it, counterfeits abound and less than 12.6 in any state of charge is a dud.

In Oz the fuel goes off after a few months, so draining and flushing the tank and carbs and a good dose of stabiliser/cleaner in the new fuel might be in order.

Might still have the OEM Crackomatic coil which won't help starting. Or old poorly gapped plugs, or a battery with poor volts under the load.

On my GS there is a switch on the clutch lever perch which might let you start in gear or if the neutral switch thinks you are still in gear , with the clutch pulled in,

The correct oil in the gearbox helps the switch action, I like a GL5/6 LSD oil which seems to improve shift action too.

Plug leads are the same dia as 99.99% of OEM leads and length will depend on coil and location, but if you get a 1200mm length and put coil terminals each end you can cut it to suit later and screw the new NGK 5 whatever resistance caps on.
 
Starting.... maybe the tappers need adjusting, as when my tappers are tight the bike is hard to start.
neutral light: maybe you need a new switch (not a hard job, just need to prise the spacer out once you have removed the rear engine through bolt.)...or could just be the wires onto the neutral switch may be loose, or dirty....

tappers?:confused::nenau
 
The intermittent neutral light on my g/s was traced back to a loose bulb in the dash.
 
Surely you can buy a battery over there? Motobins had an offer of free postage on, so maybe get them to send out a service kit? https://www.motobins.co.uk (Looks like its UK and Europe only. :( ) After that, do a basic service (tappets, plugs, filters) and you're good to go. There is an Airhead riders Fb group which will have Kiwi riders on it if you need help over there.
 
Doh! Battery cables, not HT leads.



Perfect, got the dimensions from that, thanks - glad that somebody worked out what I was blathering on about. Apologies for the confusion though I guess it wouldn't hurt to replace the HT leads as well.

Ta for the info about carrying lithium batteries. Had already done the research but it's good to see it confirmed. Got to be a lithium really as it will be left for up to a year at a time and, for one reason or another, I can't use a tender. Had a Shorai on my Ducati for 6 years and been very happy with it but they didn't have anything suitable. The Shido 51913 I've bought is rated at 90w so under the airline limit but still well up to the job in hand and is a perfect fit for the replacement stainless tray that I've got. Shedding nearly 8kg(!) won't hurt either.
,
Did the tappets at the same time as the oil change and checked again during the trip so I don't think that's it. Bike used a bit of oil during the trip, more than my old GS, so may need to investigate that at some point. I had to use Penrite 10/50 semi synth for the trip, put fresh 20w50 once I got back. Bike was left full of fuel + stabiliser. I plan to do a full servce inc all fluids once I'm back in NZ. I'll use the gearbox oil suggested by Beemerboff.

I will be taking out spark plugs, oil filters etc. plus a K&N air filter that I kept from my old GS - guess I always knew I was going to get another some day! I'll also take a couple of carb overhaul kits. I'm tempted by that battery bank/starter although I'm hoping that the Shido will frighten the bike into behaving itself! One way or another it looks like Motorworks, who are about 5o miles away, might be getting a visit. Anything else I should consider, particularly re the starting issue?

Cheers, Rob
 
Where in NZ are your parents located?

My folks live near New Plymouth. Also got cousins in Auckland & Levin and my other half has rellies down near Christchurch. Already got the South Island ferry booked for this years' trip so need to get the bike reliable!
 
Tappers = Tappets (valve clearance)...... when you dont check that the computer has changed it on its own....

Ride safe
 
My folks live near New Plymouth. Also got cousins in Auckland & Levin and my other half has rellies down near Christchurch. Already got the South Island ferry booked for this years' trip so need to get the bike reliable!
Okay. Your closest BMW Airhead mechanics are at Awahuri (nr Palmerston North) - R Twinworks, & Raumati (nr Paraparaumu) - Two Cats Garage, so you could get some assistance on the way to the ferry if things aren't quite.. all that you'd hope for.
 
Hi, after years of starting issues with my G/S, tried all the usual carb, valve clearances etc etc, the absolute best upgrade I did was a new wiring loom and a new starter motor, I got a pattern starter motor from Gary at BAMW in derby, about £80 if I remember. Bike transformed, old wiring looms give all sorts of issues and not that expensive or difficult to fit. The starter motor is a lot lighter than the old Bosch or Valeo units and spins over like a good un.Never looked back..
New looms are £150 ish
Hope this helps, Steve



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Okay. Your closest BMW Airhead mechanics are at Awahuri (nr Palmerston North) - R Twinworks, & Raumati (nr Paraparaumu) - Two Cats Garage, so you could get some assistance on the way to the ferry if things aren't quite.. all that you'd hope for.

Appreciate that Box'a.
The bike actually came from your neck of the woods BTW. Got it from a guy in Lower Hutt who'd found the brakes for his city commute a little ... lacking. With much encouragement from his occasional pillion, he'd bought a rather nice 1150gs which I'd already seen on Trade Me but was outside my price bracket.
I found Twinworks online at the same time, looks to have a good reputation, but Two Cats is a new one on me - do you have any contact details, can't find anything on the web?

Cheers, Rob
 
Thanks for that Steve, will put starter motor on my list of things to have a look at - I've no idea what's under the cover at the moment. IIRC the loom has had some tidying up under the tank so clearly there have been issues in the past. I had to leave the bike in a bit of a rush, will be able to have a closer look at both when I get back. And, if needs be, Derby is just down the road...Cheers, Rob
 
Most obvious (bar the oil leaks round the cylinders) is that it's a poor starter. .

Might still have the OEM Crackomatic coil which won't help starting.

My thoughts as well. :thumb2
The original dual output coils were notorious for cracking.
Pick up a used K100 coil. Cheap as chips, ultra reliable and tough as old boots.
 
My thoughts as well. :thumb2
The original dual output coils were notorious for cracking.
Pick up a used K100 coil. Cheap as chips, ultra reliable and tough as old boots.

Sounds like a plan. I'm guessing it doesn't which version - 1&4 or 2&3?
 


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