Restoration of a 1990 R100gs

The bevel is in the detail

Many thanks to those that have posted replies - clearly there is a wealth of information out there and I am a poor man!

I have been trying to polish up the exhaust system and have so far spent a few hours on one of the headers.


Below is a picture of how she looks after a few hours, alongside her dirty sister. I also attach a photo of the compound I am using and the type of pad. I got 10 pads for under £5 and the compounds came from metal polishing supplies - all through ebay.

I don't think I m going to make much more progress this week on the bike other than further exhaust polishing as I have to check the valve clearances on my S10 and as this is new to me, will no doubt take a couple of days.

I did however previously change some of the seals on the GS bevel drive and hope to post some photos of the problems I encountered along with a short narrative on my experience of after market bevel drive to swing arm pivots to which I alluded in previous postings.

Thank you for reading this post.

David


As mentioned above, I would like to share 2 stories relating to the bevel drive on my R100GS which I am at present restoring - apologies for the slight delay but I have been checking the valve clearances on my S10, which incidentally were within acceptable tolerances.

My first account relates to a leaking pinion seal. This problem was apparent soon after I purchased the bike and you will see from the photos of the castle nut below that it is clear that during the bikes lifetime someone had had a go at removing the nut albeit with a hammer and chisel judging by the mess.

With one side of the nut missing, I regret that my homemade tool was inadequate to remove the nut due to its high torque and I was forced to bite the bullet and try to locate the correct tool - which I managed to purchase from BMW Bayer. Thankfully, with heat, the correct tool was up to the job of removing the nut even though it was damaged.

I uploaded a photo which shows my homemade jig so I could hold the bevel drive in a bench vice, my homemade extractor, the damaged castle nut and the real deal tool which I bought -yes it's the professional looking shiny one!

My second story relates to a clunk which I heard when travelling at 70mph - the sort of mechanical clunk that you know will not sort itself out. I wasn't sure where it came from but I managed to limp home and notice that the rear wheel would not rotate backwards. I thought this could be a drive shaft or gearbox issue or perhaps the bevel. Unfortunately I started from the wrong end and the gearbox seemed fine. I did notice some grooves had been cut into the drive shaft and when I got around to removing the bevel box I noted that the aftermarket "upgrade" bearing substitute I bought had failed (the part is not a bearing, instead it is a pin which can rotate in a greased cup) - the part which failed was the cup/ grease baffle and its part had jammed in between the driveshaft and bevel housing. Needless to say I feel rather fortunate that the wheel did not lock up when I was doing 70mph.

These episodes have taught me at least 2 things :

1. Always use the right tool (there is seldom opportunity to use am hammer and chisel together when undertaking bike maintenance)
2. Whilst BMW swing arm to bevel box bearings are prone to failure after a couple of years, having to replace them is a lot better than an after market part breaking.

I have also uploaded a photo showing the broken cup and the resultant scores to my drive shaft.

In terms of progress on the restoration, I regret to say that the S10 has taken a lot longer than I thought - mainly due to the difficulty in removing the cylinder head through the frame - anyone who has done this job will I am sure empathise. I have however been in touch with RM and am expecting a new camshaft with slightly increased lobes (nothing too crazy) in the next few days.

Thank you for reading and as ever don't rely on anything I say -obtain your own professional advice and oh yes, this post is for entertainment purposes only ( I think that deals with disclaimers)
 

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Easy cam easy go

That's a bit rude about Wales... :D


Following with great interest, keep it coming!

Dear Reader

Apologies for the gap between postings but I have been busy on other matters. I have however now made a little progress; namely the replacement of the existing cam shaft and the replacement of the timing chain.

Clymer is fairly comprehensive in terms of the removal of the timing chain cover and indeed on the removal of the timing chain. It could however be clearer on a couple of points (which i will mention later) and Haynes is of little use when dealing with removal of the cam shaft.

Turning to the cam shaft itself, my GS had a 308 cam and I have replaced it with a 324 cam which I purchased from Moorspeed. Dealing with Richard was a pleasure and in addition to supplying the shaft promptly, he advised me on the choices available and what would best suit my needs. As I am after improved road use and want a reasonably consistent idle, Richard advised that I go with the 324. I should mention at this stage that Richard also advised me on the correct endfloat and where to measure it.

In terms of the job itself, many of the timing chain cover fastners were seized solid and even with the addition of plus gas (WD40 on steroids) and patience, some of the bolts snapped off. This was very annoying as I generally manage to complete a job without creating a new one. That said I managed to remove all of the bolts save the last one (one of the 3 alternator bolts). I tried to drill it out and regret to say I made a real mess of the hole so I ended up having to buy a second hand cover. Thankfully it was not too expensive but nonetheless annoying.

I removed the sprocket from the cam shaft using a puller - Clymer suggests using two flat blade screw drivers but I found that the puller worked better. I also put the new cam shaft in the freezer for a little while and heated the sprocket in an oven (don't let it get very hot) and persuaded it on with a nylon mallet. There is a photo in Clymer regarding measurment of the end float but I would have preferred if this was backed up with a written explanation. In any event, as mentioned above I spoke to Richard Moor who confrimed the measument could be taken between the cam shaft and the cam bearing.

In terms of installing the new timing chain I can offer the following tips:-

1. Watch moto-phoenixs video on You Tube
2. Install the spring and plunger before the chain and tape them back out of the way of the chain area. If you put the chain on first there will be insufficient space to fit the plunger in - this point is not covered in Clymer
3. Use a cable tie to hold the chain tight as this will give you a third hand when trying to add the master link.
4. Block with rags all entires in to the crankcase as things have a tendency to fall in the least convenient place.

I am yet to clean off the gasket - it is really stuck fast - I have tried spraying some gasket remover but to little effect so will get to work with my plastice scrapper in the morning.

I include some photos of the job which are self explanatory.

Please note that this article is for entertainment purposes only and you should not rely upon it for any reason.

Thank you for reading.


David
 

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You can't polish a turd (but you can spray it with matt aluminium VHT paint)

Right I know this may be controversial but I have painted my short block. I previously painted the cylinder and heads on my R100rt using Simoniz vht matt aluminium with very good results - after 12 months, not signs of peeling. I also remember the hours spent trying to clean the heads of my r65 bobber after having had them vapour blasted and did not want to go down that road again (just a personal preference).

I have also received a complete set of stainless bolts from Chris Shaw engineering - nice to deal with and product seems good.

Photos below of :

1. Stainless bolts received
2. As clean as I could get the engine after scrubbing with a brillo pad and fairy liquid - I find these the better than any engine degreaser
3. The engine after a coat of paint

all photos in the usual reverse order!

The usual disclaimer (only a Muppet would do what I've just done) applies.

Stay safe

David
 

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I don't know whether this applies to older bmw alloys but certainly for oil heads fitting stainless steel fixings was a bad idea due to incompatibility been that and aluminium. I believe adding a lithium based grease o the threads can help. If memory serves. Usual caveats apply :D

Liking the thread BTW....Great to see folks getting stuck in. Not enough stuff like this IMHO.
 
I don't know whether this applies to older bmw alloys but certainly for oil heads fitting stainless steel fixings was a bad idea due to incompatibility been that and aluminium. I believe adding a lithium based grease o the threads can help. If memory serves. Usual caveats apply :D

Liking the thread BTW....Great to see folks getting stuck in. Not enough stuff like this IMHO.

Many thanks for your input Blueranger.

The airheads all had stainless steel bolts - basically throughout (I think the bolts holding the alternator are an alloy). As you say it is essential to grease new bolts or there is a danger of the bolt galling (locking up). There is a lot of debate over which grease to use -or whether to use grease and not another product. Indeed it is like the old adage if you ask 2 lawyers you will end up with 3 opinions!

Chris Shaw engineering which supplied the bolts included a note that stated copperslip or a grease containing MDB should be used. I have used copper grease on exhaust fin nuts for years and have always been able to remove fin nuts without damaging the cylinder head so have decided to go down the copper grease route.

Please also note that there is much debate over the use of stainless steel pushrod tubes. I spoke to RM and he says there is a danger that the tubes may damage the cylinder head and cause leaking -there are however one or two suppliers who he reckons supply stainless steel tubes that are just right.

Once again thank you for taking the time to post a reply -in particular as a failure to grease the bolts could lead to big problems down the line -it is reassuring to know that there are readers out there who will help keep an amateur on the right path.
 
Project completed

A few further additions:

Silent Hektik charging system
HPN/acerbis tank
Russell day long seat
Siebenrock footrests
Cam and pistons referred to earlier duly fitted as well as brake upgrade
All seals and bearings replaced
Timing chain and tensioner replaced

Will post photos if someone is good enough to remind me how to do it
 
Will post photos if someone is good enough to remind me how to do it

Go 'advanced' and then find 'manage attachments'. Select a few files then press upload. Close the box when you see them listed. Preview post to make sure they aren't upside down.

How are you getting on with the Silent hektik?
 
A few further additions:




Will post photos if someone is good enough to remind me how to do it


Easiest way to do is it is on the tapatalk mobile version of the forum , and use the pictures on your device

-- otherwise you have to mess about with picture size on your pc,,,,,,,
 
Will try to work out photo posting.

SH system looks well made and feels reassuringly heavy. Incidentally, there is a you tube video on fitting it and English instructions are available on line (don't ask me to upload them!).

Hope that I will be able to say how good it is still working in 10 years time but so far can only say that it was fairly easy to install and it charges the battery.

A few minor gripes:

1. SH will not export outside the EU so you must now go through a retailer - same price but can be good to get to know the maker in case you have any questions.

2. Swarf was left after the hole in the centre of the rotor was tapped . Glad I spotted it before I went near the magnets and copper windings in the stator!

3. The rotor bolt was too short.

Have you fitted SH yourself or are you thinking of doing so?
 
A few minor gripes:

1. SH will not export outside the EU so you must now go through a retailer - same price but can be good to get to know the maker in case you have any questions.

2. Swarf was left after the hole in the centre of the rotor was tapped . Glad I spotted it before I went near the magnets and copper windings in the stator!

3. The rotor bolt was too short.

Have you fitted SH yourself or are you thinking of doing so?

Thinking of fitting one (R90S) - do you have to tap a hole in the rotor? Did you buy the ignition parts as well?
 
Silent Hektik

Hello

No I didn't change the ignition but if you think you will do so in the near future, you may find it cheaper to buy both systems at the same time.

Could I respectfully suggest that you keep all of the parts from the original system if you do replace it but I suspect you know to do that anyway.

You don't need to tap the hole -it is done by the manufacturer. The system is not very difficult to fit. You will need a BMW wiring diagram for your model so you can wire the gen light and starter relay correctly - these aren't covered very well in the instructions.

As regards the rotor bolt, I used the existing alternator bolt - it is not fully threaded but as the rotor is press mounted on to the crank it revolves with the engine rather than use a fully threaded bolt - as mentioned the bolt supplied was too short.

Incidentally I am unable to manage attachments - the icon is missing - I do get a message saying if I subscribe I have greater access, my subscription is however not due so I am not sure.


Regards

David
 
Hello

No I didn't change the ignition but if you think you will do so in the near future, you may find it cheaper to buy both systems at the same time.

Could I respectfully suggest that you keep all of the parts from the original system if you do replace it but I suspect you know to do that anyway.

You don't need to tap the hole -it is done by the manufacturer. The system is not very difficult to fit. You will need a BMW wiring diagram for your model so you can wire the gen light and starter relay correctly - these aren't covered very well in the instructions.

As regards the rotor bolt, I used the existing alternator bolt - it is not fully threaded but as the rotor is press mounted on to the crank it revolves with the engine rather than use a fully threaded bolt - as mentioned the bolt supplied was too short.

Incidentally I am unable to manage attachments - the icon is missing - I do get a message saying if I subscribe I have greater access, my subscription is however not due so I am not sure.


Regards

David

Re subscription, it doesn't look like you have. Costs £12 a year and is well worth it. :thumby:
 
Could I respectfully suggest that you keep all of the parts from the original system if you do replace it but I suspect you know to do that anyway.

Thanks for the info and the above suggestion. Long story but I don't have them, so going in from scratch!

Q: Which UK retailer did you use, or do you know one?
 


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