Wiring diagram R1250GS

MF-Racing

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Hi guys,

Anyone got or know where to get wiring diagrams for the 1250GS?

I’m trying to work out which wire colours are positive and negative for then nano fog lamps. They have 4 wires going into them. I suspect only two are used to power them however.

Thanks
Matt
 
Hi guys,

Anyone got or know where to get wiring diagrams for the 1250GS?

I’m trying to work out which wire colours are positive and negative for then nano fog lamps. They have 4 wires going into them. I suspect only two are used to power them however.

Thanks
Matt

You not got a test meter ?
 
If anyone has the new nano lights, and are willing to probe out where the 12v is coming out of the plug that goes in to the back of the light that would be amazing. Thanks
 
Just in case it helps anyone. Pin 3 is -ve and pin 1 is +ve. Can now wire up my OEM spots with EZCan for the extra functions.
 
Just in case it helps anyone. Pin 3 is -ve and pin 1 is +ve. Can now wire up my OEM spots with EZCan for the extra functions.

What are the ambitions with the EZCan? Do you plan to dim the OEM spots?
 
Yep and have the extra functions of flashing on horn etc.

Then that makes two of us.
On my -15 (previous generation AUX lights) I disconnected the lights from OEM connector and used CANswitch.

I've been told that the 1250 lights will throw a fault message if AUXlights are disconnected. Not a big deal as such, but as long as the fault is there, it will block from updating any software to the bike.

I haven't started to investigate yet, (winter project) but if they work in a similar way to the previous generation lights, where +12V could be cycled in order to dim, there might be the need for a dummy resistor in order not to throw a fault code.
 
Then that makes two of us.
On my -15 (previous generation AUX lights) I disconnected the lights from OEM connector and used CANswitch.

I've been told that the 1250 lights will throw a fault message if AUXlights are disconnected. Not a big deal as such, but as long as the fault is there, it will block from updating any software to the bike.

I haven't started to investigate yet, (winter project) but if they work in a similar way to the previous generation lights, where +12V could be cycled in order to dim, there might be the need for a dummy resistor in order not to throw a fault code.

Mine is a bit different as my 1250GS didn’t have fog lights from standard, so I won’t have any issues with fault codes etc. Just wanted to fit the OEM lights for the OEM look really but have the extra functions of the EZCan.

The Nano lights dim nice, I had 6v to 12v through them on the bench and all look good.
 
Just thought I’d let you know, new BMW Nano lights all wired up via EZCan, all working great. No flicker even in the lowest setting and strobe functions spot on! Successful project!
 
HEX EZcan

Just thought I’d let you know, new BMW Nano lights all wired up via EZCan, all working great. No flicker even in the lowest setting and strobe functions spot on! Successful project!

Yep just finished installing the ezCAN , so simple and easy to programme. ( for own tom tom sat nav, heated seat pad and vest, spot/running lights and rear Givi box lights) Nippy Normans was having a sale - hence the purchase.
 
Just thought I’d let you know, new BMW Nano lights all wired up via EZCan, all working great. No flicker even in the lowest setting and strobe functions spot on! Successful project!

Tnx. for feedback. I'll keep it in mind when I start my winter activities in my garage. :beerjug: :okay
 
Just thought I’d let you know, new BMW Nano lights all wired up via EZCan, all working great. No flicker even in the lowest setting and strobe functions spot on! Successful project!

MF, glad your project worked out. Did you have to make any connections to pins 2 & 4 when you connected the lights to the Ezcan using pins 1 & 3? Have you any idea what pins 2 & 4 are for? And did you get any fault codes show on the TFT when you disconnected the nanos from the bike’s canbus? Thanks for any information you can offer.
 
MF, glad your project worked out. Did you have to make any connections to pins 2 & 4 when you connected the lights to the Ezcan using pins 1 & 3? Have you any idea what pins 2 & 4 are for? And did you get any fault codes show on the TFT when you disconnected the nanos from the bike’s canbus? Thanks for any information you can offer.

As @MF-Racing retrofitted his Nano lights, I take the liberty to chime in.

I did this 'operation' on my -19 1250 GSA, and did some tests prior to installing, in my case, a CAN-switch.

From the bike, the lights are fed, as already mentioned, through #1 and #3. Both lights are fed from the same source, and the bike is only able to switch them on/off as a pair. There are however two cables that are connected to only one of the lights. I suspect this reports back in case of failure, but this is not confirmed. Anyway, I left them as is, so it does not matter.

The peculiar thing though is that the +12V in the connector is a steady-on supply, and using the switch on the left mirror bracket is closing/opening the ground only. Attempting to disconnect both +12V and GND did throw a fault code on my bike, while disconnecting the +12V cable only did not trigger a warning. (by warning, I mean a fault code requiring GS-911 or similar readout. No warning on the TFT)

My solution:
Since the connector feeds both lights from the same pin, I opened up the harness after the cable is split in a Y, and then I cut the +12V cable , red/blue, for each of the lights. This enabled me to control each light separate, allowing them to flash in faze with the signal lights.

The connector is located on the left side, slightly behind the left signal light. In order to make life easy, I pulled out the harness and did my soldering on the bench.
So.. The only soldering I did was to cut the red/blue to each light, hooked up the red/blue on the light-side to a extended cable to the CANswitch and left the connector side of the red/blue not connected, but insulated since it still carry voltage.

The Rep DVD shows an excellent diagram that shows the routing of the harness to the AUX lights.

I did the job for not too long ago, but so far, no fault code (as read by GS-911).

This way, in order to switch the lights on the switch on left mirror bracket must be used (it controls the grounding of the lights).

The only limiting factor is that when stopping the bike, the lights will not fade slowly to off, as the bike shuts them off right away (by cutting the ground). I find this to be acceptable, as the setup allows the full function of the bikes fault-controll.

Regarding the fault codes, the catch is, if the bike throws a fault code the bike will not accept ANY software updates as long as there are unresolved fault-codes, hence the importance of avoiding them, even if nothing shows on the TFT
 
As @MF-Racing retrofitted his Nano lights, I take the liberty to chime in.

I did this 'operation' on my -19 1250 GSA, and did some tests prior to installing, in my case, a CAN-switch....


...The only limiting factor is that when stopping the bike, the lights will not fade slowly to off, as the bike shuts them off right

Regarding the fault codes, the catch is, if the bike throws a fault code the bike will not accept ANY software updates as long as there are unresolved fault-codes, hence the importance of avoiding them, even if nothing shows on the TFT

Thanks for this, knutk, that clarifies things for me. Where do I find the Rep DVD you mentioned?
 
Thanks for this, knutk, that clarifies things for me. Where do I find the Rep DVD you mentioned?

The Rep DVD is sold by the dealer.
After it is installed on your PC it needs to be verified on Internett.
You may install on 3 different computers. You may cancel the license and move the copy to another computer if you buy a new computer. Or 3 mates using 1 copy each...

You may also update the installation in case BMW have decided to do changes to their maintenance procedures.

Highly recommended if you want to work on your bike.
 


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