A Quick Trip to Wales

SWTH

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Since buying the G650 I’ve been keen to take it on a few of my favourite roads, and yesterday the opportunity presented itself...

A couple of weeks ago I agreed to do something in Porthmadog on the evening of 30th October 19. Initially the plan was to take the train from Shrewsbury because I didn’t expect the weather to be dry and for me the train is free, but looking at the weather Wednesday morning I decided to go by bike. Which bike? The GS of course. As much as I like my ZZR the roads were going to be grim and not much fun on the metallic green two-wheel ballistic missile. I needed to take quite a bit of kit too which also ruled in favour of the GS.

So, early Wednesday morning. Dry but cold. I load up the bike, and set off at 0930 for a quick trip around my favourite bit of Wales. I didn’t need to be in Porthmadog until 1530 so plenty of time to enjoy the ride. Initially I follow the A5 out of Shrewsbury towards Oswestry, nice rolling fields but really that part of the A5 is just a quick way to get somewhere interesting. I turn left at Wolfs Head Roundabout near Nesscliffe, aiming for the Tanat Valley. Sadly the village shop in Knockin is closed these days, and the big ‘Knockin Shop’ sign has disappeared. Somewhere in my wardrobe I still have an ‘I visited the Knockin Shop’ t-shirt....

Out of Knockin I end up following a Lloyd’s animal feed wagon, heading for their plant at Llynclys. Whilst the road doesn’t look wet I end up covered in fine spray being thrown up despite dropping right back. Overtaking opportunities between Knockin & Llynclys are fairly limited, and as per usual I find whenever there is a chance a car is coming the other way. Still, the wagon turns off soon enough and I’m free to continue.

Straight over the crossroads at Llynclys, it always pays to be careful here because of the poor sighting. Around the Llansantffraid turning the road has a thick layer of mud, thanks of course to the masses herds of migrating tractors roaming from field to field. I’ve definitely chosen the right bike for today. Heading towards the Tanat Valley the hills get bigger, the road twistier. I know this road well, I used to commute along it every day when I worked for a company in Llanrhaeadr. Left turn just before the main village, cutting over to the B4391 just before Penybontfawr. More twisties, before dropping into Llangynog. This really is the gateway to Snowdonia, the hills are becoming mountains. Up out of the village, over the cattle grid and onto the ledge that takes the road up the side of the valley. Over the top and we are in some of the most sparsely populated lands in Wales. The road here passes across the bottom corner of Denbighshire, which must cause some gnashing of teeth in their Highways office - the B4391 doesn’t lead to anywhere in Denbighshire, there are no turnings off it until well into Gwynedd. However the bit they are responsible for is built on a bog and needs almost constant maintenance. Anyway, into Gwynedd and over the next cattlegrid. Down the two hairpins, past the left hander that I once crashed a Mk3 Cavalier into (the Armco still to this day is painted black-white-black-white-GREY-black-white where they replaced the damaged bit and never matched the pattern), then down past Llyn Tegid into Bala. Right then immediately left onto the A4212. My favourite road...

I’ve driven many different machines along this road and not once have I not enjoyed it. Buses, cars, vans and bikes. Out of Bala, always careful to keep an eye out for the speed camera van sometimes on the hill out of the town, through Frongoch and up towards Llyn Celyn. The A4212 skirts the edge of Llyn Celyn in two sides, making for stunning views. I debate a stop for a photo but decide not to - i’ll stop a bit further on - I’ve already got some nice pictures from previous stops. Llyn Celyn is beautiful but has a dark past - the lake was created by Liverpool Corporation to ensure a good supply of water to the city, which involved flooding the village of Tryweryn. The villagers fought against the plans but ultimately failed - even today there is resentment in the area, with occasional ‘Cofiwch Dryweryn’ (remember Tryweryn) signs on vehicles and buildings. Onwards to the west, and the first photo stop. It’s here I realise how much mud the bike and my boots collected earlier!

I’ll add photos later today.

Looking out from Cwm Prysor the road snakes down the valley, perfect riding territory. I zip down the road with no traffic to hinder me, admiring the scenery as I go. On the ZZR I’d probably be concentrating a lot more on the road ahead, but on the GS more time can be taken to register the sheer natural beauty of the landscape. All too soon the road ends at Trawsfynydd, so it’s a right turn and down to Minffordd, my overnight stop to unload. This isn’t the end of today’s riding though, I need to visit Tesco for some supplies and I’ve a route in mind that really isn’t direct...
 
If you'd taken the back road around Llyn Celyn you'd have passed a remote house at Arenig where I've lived twice and still regularly visit :)
 
Picture 1 - Cwm Prysor:



Looking down the valley towards Trawsfynydd:




Part II.

I arrive at Minffordd and check in to my overnight accommodation, taking the opportunity to unload the bike:



I do need to find a good set of Monokey boxes for it, but the pannier frame makes for a good place to lash down luggage until I find some.

Unloaded, and with an empty rucksack on my back for supplies, I head back out. Final destination - Porthmadog Tesco. Route? Not the direct one. Back through to Penrhyndeudraeth, left turn in the village centre onto the Llanfrothen road. Up, over the level crossing and back down onto a couple of longish straights before Llanfrothen comes into view. I've a vague plan of where to go, so I follow the road through some fairly serious tight and twisty sections before the junction with the A498 near Nantmor. Right turn here, into the stunningly beautiful Aberglaslyn pass. I stop in the lay-by for a quick photo, but to be truthful the best views aren't to be had from the road, too many trees in the way:



Back on board, I press on towards Beddgelert, or Dead Dog City for those of you familiar with the fable. A very pretty little place nestled in the foothills of Snowdon, I never seem to actually stop here despite thinking I should. Today is no different, I go over the bridge in the centre of town and follow the road around to the left onto the A4085, aiming the GS towards Rhyd Ddu. The road is a fairly continuous climb up to the summit of the road near Pitts Head, where it crosses over the Welsh Highland Railway and runs parallel with it into the station at Rhyd Ddu. A few hundred yards before the summit the road clears the trees and the vistas open out to reveal a typical Snowdonian landscape - big, sculpted by geological dramas and upheavals from times long past, and destined to stand silent witness to the comings and goings of life. I steer the GS into the station car park and dismount for another photo.



I don't stop for long, as I want to press on with the ride. Into Rhyd Ddu village, and sharp left onto the B4418. I haven't travelled on this road for at least 15 years, going right back to when I lived in the area. The B4418 links Rhyd Ddu with Penygroes, and is a proper little gem of a road. Much of the road as far as Nantlle is single track, tight and twisty. I head up to where the road summits, and find somewhere to stop for yet another photo:



The ride down here is where the GS excels - lots of 1st, 2nd & 3rd gear action. I could bring the ZZR along this road but I'm quite certain that I'm having much more fun on the lighter, more nimble GS - the 650 single makes neat work of the short straights and the bike handles the corners with ease. As I've done more and more miles on the bike I've come to the conclusion that I only really have two complaints - one is that I wish BMW hadn't been quite so stingy with the spec in terms of sticking with a 5-speed box - at motorway speeds the engine is buzzy and with the learner friendly 47bhp output having the first 5 slightly closer together and a 6th just above where 5th currently is should have worked well. The second is the fuel tank - range can be an issue. 14 litres makes the G650 a bit short legged, on a previous journey I drained the tank in just 115 miles. Again the lack of a 6th gear is possibly responsible for some of it. But as a budget bike I suppose compromises have to be made, and that is where BMW compromised. I'm glad however that the first owner of the bike didn't compromise on what could be changed, the hand guards and OE heated grips are keeping my hands nice and toasty, and the Touratech screen riser is keeping the worst of the wind off me. I zip along, left handers occasionally accompanied by the sound of what I think is the side stand lug touching asphalt. The scenery is every bit as good as I remember it, but all too soon I arrive in Penygroes. Time is marching on, I need to head back towards Porthmadog. I take the A487 southwards, as far as Glandwyfach. Here I take the Criccieth road, for a change. Usually I'd carry straight on the A487 to Port but I've not been through Criccieth for a while. The scenery changes, the Lleyn Peninsula being a bit less mountainous and rugged and more hilly pastures. I roll into Criccieth and turn left for Porthmadog, taking in the sights of the coast to the right. 10 minutes later I'm in Tesco, getting a few supplies. I could get back to Minffordd on the A487 bypass but I prefer heading through Porthmadog, and over the Cob. Halfway through town I catch up with 4 other bikes, at least two of which are 'big' GSs. I tag along with them across the cob and up into Minffordd, before turning off to park up and get ready for the evening.

The evening job is a complete change from the day's activities, though it still involves wheeled transport. Specifically, its this:



I've been involved with the Ffestiniog Railway for over 20 years, mainly on the footplate. 1893-built Hunslet 2-4-0 'Blanche' is tonights engine, hauling a Halloween/Murder Mystery special. As I got changed and ready for a night of burning coal and boiling water, I take a phone call from 'proper' work that stuffs the riding plans for the next day, but its just one of those things. To be concluded in Part III....
 
I nearly did take the Arenig turning opposite the turning for Ffestiniog, but decided I wanted to get the luggage dropped off fairly swiftly. Going to have to do it at some point though.
 
Nice one S, we are so lucky having Wales right in our doorstep :thumb2

I suspect a few here might be interested in a few shots from the footplate too :thumb
 
What a great write up.
Lovely part of the world.
More train info please!!
 
Enjoyed reading that,reminded me I need to go back next year.
The 650 is a cracking bike for solo use.Surprised you not getting nearer to 200 miles on a tank full.
 
Nice write up - despite living in Scotland nowadays, I used to travel across the moors from Denbigh to Llangollen every weekend for kayaking -- we now take our summer hols in North Wales - Criccieth and it's beaches are amazing, Rhosneigr (and the views over RAF Valley) are superb, Pete's Eats is a must, Grigin Farm for the kites -- so much good stuff. I am still contemplating towing the bike down behind the van this year to get some miles in on smooth roads....
 
Enjoyed reading that,reminded me I need to go back next year.
The 650 is a cracking bike for solo use.Surprised you not getting nearer to 200 miles on a tank full.

Possibly because I'm a heavy 6 an' arf footer, and the bike had a fair load. That 115 mile range was a constant 85ish mph run on a private road much like the M5. I do get more mpg during slower A/B road riding, but I've not been brave enough to go past 150 miles on the tripmeter before finding a petrol station!

Part III will come tomorrow hopefully, plus more railway-related pictures for those interested.
 
Part III

Wednesday afternoon. The phone rings. It’s work. “On Thursday, could you come in and cover this job….”

I did plan to have a decent day of meandering back through Wales to Shrewsbury, but the offer of extra ching just in time for this month’s pay packet can’t be ignored. So, early start in the morning then….

Tonight however I’m going to forget all that and concentrate on the job at hand – firing a small steam loco. The Blanche is a ‘main line’ quarry Hunslet, one of three built for the Penrhyn Quarry Railway in the early 1890s. As built they were effectively a big upscaling of the very successful 0-4-0ST Quarry Hunslets working in various slate quarries in North Wales, but rather than working in the various levels and galleries of Dinorwic, Penrhyn, Pen-yr-Orsedd, Dorothea and others, the Blanche and her two classmates (Charles & Linda) were built to work the line from Penrhyn Quarry to the quay at Port Penrhyn. This they did successfully until the early 1960s, but with the decline in slate production they became surplus to requirements. Charles was preserved as a static exhibit, but Linda & Blanche were bought by the Festiniog Railway, who were undergoing something of a motive power shortage at the time. Since then various modifications (the addition of tenders, superheating, front pony trucks, mechanical lubrication etc) have transformed them into powerful (in relation to their small size) locos. These days this pair of old ladies are regularly called on to haul twice the load over twice the distance at twice the speed that they were designed for – testament to how good the basic design is.



Tonight’s job is to take a Halloween-themed train up the line from Porthmadog to the halfway point at Tanybwlch. A trip in the dark too, something I’ve not done for some time. There is something quite special about a steam loco footplate at night, somehow it becomes even more atmospheric. We head up the line, pausing at Minffordd to collect a couple of witches, and then into the woods above Rhiw Goch. Eventually we cross over the road bridge into Tanybwlch, and all the passengers head into the café for nibbles and a performance by the witches. Meanwhile, the driver and I water and service the loco, run around to attach to the other end of the train, and then enjoy some of the food. A nice trundle back down the hill, dispose of the train, back to the shed and back to my accommodation. In bed by 2230, I need to be up by 0530.

Day 2.

Up, and luckily its dry. I’m not taking as much luggage back with me so loading up is easier. I wheel the bike away from the accommodation as the GS isn’t particularly loud but a 650 thumper even with a good silencer on a quiet morning is still capable of disturbing the peace.



The plan is a fairly swift trip back, but the route is not set in stone. I set off towards Trawsfynydd, retracing my steps from yesterday. I watch the sky brighten as I ride along, though there is a lot of low cloud obscuring the light. My concern is the rain, I don’t much like riding in it and it would certainly be more convenient to arrive home dry given I’ve not got huge amounts of spare time. The A4212 is a joy, as usual, but approaching Bala the cloud appears to be sat low, dark and wet over the route of the B4391 towards Llangynog. I elect to hang a left at Bala, and head towards the A5 at Corwen. It also provides a bit of variety, so I’m not just retracing my steps all the way. I like early morning riding, the roads are quiet and I can make my own way at my pace. I join the A5, mercifully still clear of traffic. As I roll towards Llangollen I can still afford to take in the views whilst making progress, the Vale of Llangollen really is rather beautiful. Then its Halton roundabout, Gledrid services, Mile End, and back to Shrewsbury, picking up my outward route at Wolfs Head. Traffic has picked up but the GS is good for cutting through it, with the high riding position great for visibility. I make Shrewsbury 1hr 40mins after setting off. Total mileage for the ride there and back is around 220.

As for the bike itself, I’ve really gelled with the GS. When I test rode it I really wasn’t sure, I thought it lethargic and uncomfortable. Having just stepped off the ZZR may well have been why, but after a while I realised I had been riding it wrong, and it needed a very different approach. I previously owned a Honda Verydearo 125 and as good as it was I was always wary of the high riding position. I always felt like the centre of gravity was very high, so I never really had the confidence to push on in the corner. The GS on its Metzeler Tourances is very good at transmitting the feel and feedback from the tyres, even when the front is new and the rear is 5 years old and starting to square off. I do need to give it a good service and the front fork seals look a bit ropey – not leaking but it’s something that will need to be done. The great thing is that the GS rewards an almost ham-fisted approach to riding, take it by the scruff of the neck and give it a fistful of throttle. Lots of left hoof action, keep it midrange on the revs and it will go. I’d like to find a set of panniers and topbox, but otherwise its fine just the way it is.

Thanks for reading folks, hopefully I’ll be doing more trips like this soon.

For those of you interested in such things, have some extra pictures of the FR and the area around it. And if you’re in the area, do visit and take a trip.


Looking across the Cob towards Porthmadog


Looking from Pitts Head towards Rhyd Ddu from the cab of Beyer-Garratt 138, the road from Beddgelert is to the left.


Essence of Ffestiniog. 1879-built Double Fairlie Merddin Emrys heads a train of Victorian stock at Minffordd during the Victorian Weekend in October 2019. The FR boasts one of the largest collections of Victorian rolling stock anywhere in the world.


Merddin Emrys at Harbour Station, October 2019.


Token exchange at Rhiw Goch. 1999-built Single Fairlie Taliesin viewed from the cab of 1863-built Prince.


Some of the valves and controls in the cab of Beyer-Garratt 138.


87 light engine at Beddgelert, October 2018. This was its last trip before major overhaul, so a nice easy job for me as the fireman!


Beyer-Garratt 87 at Dinas outside the shed, having just arrived light engine from Boston Lodge. The next day it was being stripped down for major overhaul.
 
Some great photos thanks for posting.
It's on the list to spend a few days up there next year.
Slightly off topic,but you may be able to help me identify a road in the Bala area please.
Tried to find it again,only to find a long gated route instead.
 

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Could possibly be somewhere around Palé, or the route from Bala towards Llyn Vyrnwy. Looks a lot like the views off the Wayfarers Way though, from Llanrheadr-ym-Mochnant towards Bala. That however is very much a gated byway with no tarmac.
 
Your route is exactly the same as I’ve been doing for years. Formerly as a youngster to family holidays in Portmadoc, and latterly as a days ride out. Great roads and mostly empty. Always remember the words my father told me “fork left for Knockin” which started the twisties. Alas it’s not a turn anymore but an island.

Only thing I would add is stop at the car park/toilets at Llangynog - allows for bladder emptying and to put on an extra layer before the mountains!
 
Could possibly be somewhere around Palé, or the route from Bala towards Llyn Vyrnwy. Looks a lot like the views off the Wayfarers Way though, from Llanrheadr-ym-Mochnant towards Bala. That however is very much a gated byway with no tarmac.

No, it's the road from Arenig to Ffestiniog.
 
Some great photos thanks for posting.
It's on the list to spend a few days up there next year.
Slightly off topic,but you may be able to help me identify a road in the Bala area please.
Tried to find it again,only to find a long gated route instead.
So both taken from the same spot but looking in different directions from here.....
 

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