A return to Yugoslavia

Friday 4th October Transcontinental motorcycling, 561miles :eek:

As we'd booked a night back in the Voges (Alsace) it was going to be another mileage day

Up early and down to load the bike - a large isolated mountain - Grimming - was looming out of the morning mist occasionally. Impressive beast as fairly free standing in the landscape - but no time to explore as had to be off, hate 'up and leave' but sometimes you just have to stick to the plan - or you won't get home. The shadow side of the bike was iced so it had been a cold night alright and no surprise at about 650m above sea level. Wrap up warm! Misty but dry so we'll take that and hope the heated grips play. Half eight and we were already away - early for us :rolleyes:

Onwards onwards toward German autobahn in the belief this would be fastest way across even though not direct - WRONG. Not been to Germany for a few years - or even central continent to be honest but couldn't believe how congested the autobahns are - crazy crazy busy. Mile after mile of trucks caught in 'slow' lane on sections were not allowed to overtake. Never seen anything like it. Not just a mile or two, miles and miles and miles of stationary traffic - purely from congestion not an accident or breakdown. Truly staggering. I assume just too much traffic. Won't be going that way again. Combine that with the frankly suicidal German drivers and you get roads you don't want to use. Plenty of past experience of Autobahn use and the scary view of a Merc coming up behind you at 130 (miles not kms) with lights on full on open sections. Now it seems to be a free for all and bloody dangerous tail-gating and people driving far too fast and definitely dangerously. It was never that bad. With no doubt whatsoever the most dangerous driving of whole trip.

Very frustrating going.

We'd been heading towards Munich and thence towards Stuttgart before down and right towards Strasbourg way. The route to Stuttgart was insane, then stationary. Bugger :(

Decided after several miles of congestion to get out of dodge. It's illegal (still, as far as I'm aware) to filter in Germany but I didn't fancy spending the whole afternoon sat in queue so filtered very slowly, cars seemed to move aside which they didn't used to, but did pass a couple of bikes stopped in fast lane so I assume we were still illegally manoeuvring. The whole point was to get to the next junction and leave the road.

MacDonald's was a brief interject for warmth and food and the weather was taking a dive. I regretted having taken the long 'fast' route, should have gone across country on minor roads - would have been faster.

It was getting somewhat tiring but the GPS at least helped us find a route (whether fastest or not!) through towards our destination. Dark cold and pissing down it wasn't much fun - but a great way to top up your riding skills :D

Our place for the nice was basically a house a young couple let out while they were doing it up. Warm and very funky, quite boutique hotel like and very welcome late at night (again!) when the weather was hard against us. The bike stood outside in pouring rain after all it had done for us - the chain was lose as feck again, really failing. found a bit of a lean to on the side of house and parked in under so I could have a proper look in morning. When the going gets tough....everything starts conspiring against you :p

Not many pics :rolleyes:
 

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Saturday 5th October UK weather warning, should we stay or should we go?

Surfing up forecasts for the weekend made me wonder if there was any point sticking to the Sunday boat. It was apparently going to be 'OK' in France today & wet tomorrow, but more interestingly the Met Office had a weather warning out for the UK on Sunday - but starting late Saturday (today) night. Hmmm for / against, for /against :nenau

We could stay in northern France for the night, get up in wet, go to ferry - in wet, get off ferry - in wet and drive 300 miles home through a thoroughly miserable forecast, or...we could see how we got on (hang on Bev's thinking, I've heard this before - last time we were near Berlin!) and if OK nearer Calais consider getting a boat (if allowed) and continuing home. After all, it might not rain when they say (has it ever stopped since???) and we might get back in dry...perhaps quite late at night though :augie

Managed to get the chain adjusted before loading up - getting nearer final adjustment marks - gone downhill very rapidly (and disappointingly, but I don't know it's make or history, perhaps cheap crap?). It was still tipping down - quite opposite of weather on inbound here sadly. But at least we weren't taking a tent down :thumb2

Great journey across France by very good quiet dual lane roads for about half of it before taking the péage - the only way you'll get any distance with a plan like I'd hatched. As we came into Calais and split to chunnel or ferry I suddenly thought, 'oh I think I'm speeding here', I hadn't slowed down as I gone in to what was I suddenly realised was a limited section. I don't mind shifting on when appropriate on open roads but always pay heed to road works and town limits, hopefully (!) I was OK, hmmm :blush

By chance the only place the weather actually improved was near Calais - it got brighter...and warmer, and the sun even made an appearance, happy days! It wouldn't stay 24 hrs though so stuck to plan, arrive and see if we can get a ferry. Never that easy of course as first to our glorious border control before you get anywhere near the ferry company. This made the final decision as it was warm and sunny now, but forecast to be wet next day, waiting in rain with a bike is no fun at all, waiting like this would be purgatory. Must have taken near 45 minutes just to get to the passport kiosk (French side empty) never mind through it, PITA. I was very pleased when we finally got to DFDS they said we could get next ferry with no charge...pretty good as about 18hrs early. Mind, I suspect hardly anyone gets their actually ferry with the ridiculous passport queues.

For the first time for a few days while we waited it was actually warm enough to take off the jackets and enjoy the sun...while adjusting the chain yet again...really wondering about it making it, almost on final adjustment mark. Had a chat to the other biker waiting, Italians living in UK who'd returned from Naples and around - wish I had their shaft drive! Only thing I'm not keen on with Wee is chain, maybe a high quality one with oiler will resolve.

Though the boat was 18:30 and a hour and a half crossing we at least had the advantage of the clock going back and hour while we sailed....still be dark on arrival though with near 300 miles to go, almost 400 already done.

Plenty of time to get something to eat and prepare for the onward journey.

Let's hope that weather warning is delayed and we get back dry :rolleyes:
 

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And so, the end is near...Saturday evening, 5th October 2019, the final leg, part two of a long days ride - the night ride home.

Well the crossing was calm and relaxed and dry - but you'd expect that to be the case inside a ferry :p

Leaving the boat was no problem and straight past customs thank God - this was going to be long enough without fannying about there.

Big sign flashing "M20 night-time closures"....arggghhhhh

Took a gamble they'd start about 8pm seeing as it didn't say 'closed' and it was about 7 now...and dark...and dry...and warmer than earlier in day. Needed juice but more interested in getting far enough up M20 to avoid closures. Had been here in July and the diversion was immense - only because they have to offer similar grade roads. We'd taken a cross country route which was fine enough but didn't fancy trying to follow in dark. Anyway, we got beyond the works with no closure - phew!

A petrol stop before Dartford and taking heed of weather warning and fact it's no fun running into bad weather in the dark, never mind possibly on a motorway section, we started faffing around putting on full waterproof gear (the lot!) while we had the comfort of the dry and the service station lights. No stopping 'til home now...well, maybe a splash and dash if bike needed it, marginal with distance to cover. Just about bankrupted us filling up at this stop - another may finish us off! You could see the odd look of the London motorists faces as we geared up (London stretches about 50 miles as far as I'm concerned :augie). Over boots to gauntlets we were set for whatever came....and hoping it was delayed and we just stayed very warm and dry...can hope!

All was good until we reached what I'd call The North (our Scottish friends may disagree :confused:) as we passed signs for the old colliery towns and villages ('Battle of' etc) I always think we're well on our way home, only an hour or two. I remember years ago riding my 400/4 back from Amsterdam in winter, the A1 was empty, it was snowing, the good old Honda went from 4 to 3 cylinders - the coils were really crap like on minis in the wet. I saw signs for 'Doncaster 70 miles' as the snow started to lie and I thought (optimistically) 'I'm nearly home', was I bollocks! I was however younger and made of much sterner stuff, on that occasion I turned off the 168 into Thirsk with absolutely no one what-so-ever on the roads and a good 2" of virgin snow. Hardcore....not anymore :shy:

We did indeed splash and dash as I often find I'm on the flashing half bar on the Vstrom getting near home and it's not the thing for a night like tonight after all the miles and with home gently drawing it's fingers enticingly in front of us.

Not long after that things took a swing for the worst weather wise - exactly as they promised. Strong winds, heavy rain, then even heavier rain, standing water and even heavier rain. Pretty bloody awful. I generally find though after you've been riding 3 or 4 hours in the dark with all your gear on you're just set-in and it's not too much of an issue, keeps you well wired though - probably keeps the mind young...at the time. I've started noticing recovery time post these sorts of rides is far from instant now.

The roads aren't empty anymore, even near mid-night there were still lots of cars around, where on earth are they all going I wonder? I expect HGVs as they welcome the less congested times, but general motorists 'what are they up to on a Saturday night near mid-night', can't all be doing what we are surely? Many are not used to such weather anyway and incapable of paying attention while sat in the warm, with lovely heating, lovely lights and maybe a touch of background mood music...my head is rushing between some crushing metal of hammering rain drops, splashes, whistling spray and moments of ambient white noise like you get in a cruising jet. I actually love that bit were its a low steady humming sound as you do miles at a set rate and then have to slow slightly and it sounds just like a jet throttling off on approach to landing. Funny what the mind gets up to whilst it's actually very very busy. It's picking up minuscule details of everything from your surroundings to ensure you're staying on the road - incredible really as most the time you can see eff all - you're doing it automatically from all the training you've had on previous long rides. There is no short-cut to doing the mileage (I'm a big fan of proper training mind, off road skills and the like).

At the end of the day, for all that amazing ability, agility and learning, one truck shedding its load of bricks or the like in the night and that's you - Gone :( And there's lots of flashing blue lights on the other side of the carriageway as a gentle reminder where a car has left the road...there but for the grace of God... :eek:

Onwards, onwards. Arse numbed beyond, only occasional rider / pillion dialogue as both wishing it was done. I've only ever had one very long ride on the back of a bike - and I was a lot younger, but I have to take my hat off to our pillions because at least we have a lot to do, they don't even get to move about too much. One of Bev's oft quoted phrases about big mileage days is, Bev - 'can we stop at some point, I need a pee', Me 'I need petrol in about 120 miles - can you hang on', we really do live in another world as riders :green gri

Very pleased to be on motorway standard roads now as it's biblical rain, this is the last leg finally, only probably half an hour to go.

Home at last, it's torrential rain and I am so pleased I built a 'bike porch' onto the end of the garage, space to stop under it, in the dry, and park unwrap and take some layers off before going indoors. 00:20 as predicted and we've just ridden 692 miles from not far from Strasbourg in a 'oner', or one thousand five hundred and eight four miles across 5 countries from Senj in Croatia three days ago...bloody hell :loopy

I think we can safely say that has been a fairy rugged test of the 650s abilities two-up!

Wired, it takes a fair few drinks and a couple of hours before I can manage to switch brain off enough to sleep :sleep
 
The gift that keeps giving (but hopefully no more please!)

A letter from France dropped through the mailbox a fortnight after we returned.

Hello, that looks official thinks I. Yepp that bit where I suddenly realised I was speeding had a camera, bugger, oh well. 45€ but to be honest again a small price to pay compared to the horror stories of old...let's just hope they don't keep coming...and I really don't want to find I've infringed some clean air zone in Salzburg or Innsbruck...For info the French fine was extremely easy to pay online, ker-ching!
 

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BRILLIANT THINGS

My pillion! :love It's nowhere as much fun on your own! Anyone that can put up with my flights of fancy and actually add to them has to be acknowledged. When I was young...like in '88 I'd arrive somewhere with an astonishing view, look around and think - this is spoilt without sharing, it's just not the same on your own and when things get tough it's always good to have ally. If you haven't a pillion, take a (or some) friends.

Heidenau Scout tyres - WOW and I say WOW again, these are a great discovery. For just about 20 years I've almost exclusively used TCK80s. I never find them gripless or dangerous in the wet - I'm no hero but I don't hang about, ride mainly two-up and can say hand on heart they'll out-perform my ridding in at least 99% of occasions and I'll allow the awful wear and part worn front tyre rumble for the advantages as soon as anything other than tarmac is in front of you. Though I've not tried the Scouts on any more technical stuff, for dry stony or gravelly ground they seem as good as the TCKs. The wear rate seems to surpass the TCKs - that central 'strip' on the rear certainly seems to make a difference. Let's face it, the vast majority of the time you are upright (though it didn't feel like it on this trip, there were twists and turns a plenty...even so...lots of straights). You are also on tarmac 90% of the time, almost anywhere. I guess there are some who could genuinely find them not good enough, but to be honest I can't see me going any faster even on a track day than I could on these, OK, I've never been on a track day - I don't think riding any of my bikes round the Circuit Paul Ricard in the 80's when it was quite traditional to rip up the fence after the race and invade the track - bet that doesn't happen anymore haha, happy days! Anyway, incredible tyres, even laid right over as they were many times on this trip they inspired confidence. Didn't notice any problem in wet either...so far, nothing not to like. New best friends!

In 3,800 miles the wear was Front, 3.5mm to 2.5mm & Rear 5mm to 2mm. These figures are for the 'wear' marks, NOT the actual thread. I.e. there is more miles left - on that basis the rear would go to past 6,000miles and the front about 13,000 if in regular use. Pretty impressive for two up loaded riding.

Average MPG 57, worst 40 doing 80 odd on motorways, best 66. Pottering around should give 60s easily :thumb2

BMW System Helmet - Always loved the flip front, ideal if you like taking pictures and great for face to face without having to remove your helmet. The 'roof' vent is particularly impressive. Weird sizing on these latest ones though - I had to 'adjust' the removable liner as it was killing my forehead. Very light and aerodynamic though the Vstrom has problems with screen helmet interface that are well known.

Autocom (wired) intercom, sure blue tooth is great but the wires mean never a loss of battery and I have a so many bits and bobs from over the years & it suits us.

The Bike - everything (except chain) absolutely bloody wonderful machine. Could do with a slight bit more power but would rather have the slow-speed control. Could do with less weight...but all of them could. May get footrest lowerers as knees did feel it after 3 or 400 miles. Standard screen is good on Madstad brackets, but could still do with some fine refinement. The screen the bike came with was epic but I can't abide looking 'through' a screen, needs to be just under my eye-line.

Halifax Clarity Credit Card - naturally you have to check it works for you, but it's by a country mile the best one we've had since Nationwide started charging for withdrawals abroad. There are other alternatives, but this worked great for us. You do have to be aware of the fact you have to pay off in full or be penalised. Also 'You don't get charged interest on spending abroad as long as you repay IN FULL, but do for cash withdrawals until paid off (5p-ish per £100 per day), so pay as soon as you can – e.g., via internet banking while abroad'. Mainly used as a debit card, but also to get cash at ATMs. That is WAY WAY cheaper than most alternatives, but do your homework.

Also watch for some very confusing street ATMS in Croatia (and possibly elsewhere), not in bank walls, but free-standing. They use sort of double negative questions to confuse you and (potentially) charge you upfront for using them. Can't remember specifically but you're asked about currency, to which you say 'local kuna' to avoid being penalised, but then next page says something else about paying now. I think these specific ATMs are maybe not 'free' and charge you if you're not careful...I think. Bev's my banker but there was one occasion I had to leave her as 'insurance' when we found we couldn't pay by card and I had to take the bike off to find an ATM. See, that's why she doesn't let me have the card! Almost everywhere does take card payments though, even for small amounts.

Booking.com - but there may be cheaper better sites? First time we've ever used but certainly makes life easier...doesn't necessarily mean you're getting a better deal than you would face to face - there are still people that approach you asking 'do you need a room'. But, you do know you have somewhere and you can still leave it to last minute to book.

LESS BRILLIANT

Hein Gericke Roulette heated grips. Sure I can resolve, but they don't always come on - fault on the button side I guess, repair, or change, don't want off in cold and don't want on in heat.

Suspension fine, but needs replacing for two up loaded use was on max most of the time, only bottomed out once, generally very impressed.

Lights, need to suss how to lower (now have, not too difficult) - they were a pain to drivers 'over there' in dark, must have a left bias - tried to check online beforehand but advice suggested not - needs taping, better still pointing more 'down', I'd make the effort to do that in future

DISSAPPOINTING

Chain - how did it go past about 4 wear marks in one trip, perhaps a crap chain, perhaps on way out before we started. Upgrade to DID with Suzuki Sprockets and an oiler, I'm sure that should improve things considerable, I know they are consumer items but I'd expect to get far more miles from chain than tyres.

Nowt else! :D :thumb2

If you've thought of a trip down that way, go ahead - it's great. 3 full days will easily get you to Slovenia (from Calais) and then the world is your oyster, the bends are your friends and the fun keeps coming. Watch out for the bears though :D

If you want to know anything I haven't already covered let me know, it's been a blast....and it still hasn't stopped bloody raining :mad:
 

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One thing I didn't mention in my now / then (as opposed to nowthen of hereabouts or 'nowthen nowthen' the catch-phase of the hideous DJ monster :eek:) summary was the effect travel has post trip.

The war broke out in Yugoslavia a short while after I'd been in '88 and the news kept bringing grim news, it seemed like it just kept getting worse.

Where I'd ridden through Sarajevo became 'Snipers Alley', couldn't believe it, shocking. The ancient bridge where I'd sat talking to an old local bloke 'Tito was all that kept this country together' - was he gone? like the bridge. Scenes of Mostar blown apart and gutted where I'd got lost and turned my bike around. Probably those black scarved ladies and peasant farmers I saw in '88 were in what's now Bosnia Herzegovina, the sights of the frequent mosques then was quite a shock to me - I had no idea there were such large Muslim communities there. The abhorrent scenes of Srebrenica and the resultant massacre and the details that were exposed just about finished me off.

I literally could not believe that all that could be happening a brief few years after I'd been there - and so close to home.

When you've been somewhere and things like that happen you can't help but have a connection you otherwise wouldn't. And of course it continues to remind me even now. Only the other night I watched a program https://www.aljazeera.com/programmes/specialseries/2017/09/bone-hunter-170914105108744.html detailing the worst of the war and that brought it all back again, shocking. Tens of thousands of genocide victims, tens of thousands of women held in rape camps, the things that happened there are unforgivable. Bizarrely I wished I'd continued a bit further and visited some of the other places I had been in '88 (I didn't have direct green card insurance for all the 'new' countries). I suspect it might have been a bit harrowing though, maybe another time.

In '88 I had a visa for Romania (I wanted to visit Transylvania) but didn't go even though I was virtually at the border after I found out just how grim life was under Ceaușescu, 'even as a tourist, you may have difficulty finding bread never mind meat' a Romanian had told me. At that point I thought 'fuck it, I'm a tourist not an investigative journalist', the journey had been quite testing already and I wasn't sure I could cope with more solo hardship. Perhaps a visit to Bosnia Herzegovina might not be quite the same as visiting bear sanctuaries or coastal tranquillity, mind even Croatia has one or two names, such as Vukovar, that made headlines for all the wrong reasons. Crazy, crazy, crazy.

Travel broadens the mind indeed.
 
Just on the tyre wear - these are the 'Scouts' after the trip with a trip mileage of 3,800, new at outset.

Plenty of rubber left as previously described and this was two-up with luggage. Lighter rides likely get more miles - unlikely with average GSer sizing mind :eek: :augie ;)
 

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Good stuff and thanks for the time taken to share this.. enjoyed it.. :thumb2

We too got heavily delayed in Croatia due to the motorway bridges being closed completely a couple of years ago.. Seems a common thing.. The mountain roads were then horrendously busy.. missed our flights which impressed me not one bit! :mad:
 
All in all, a fantastic and fab RR, very inspirational and thought provoking

Some excellent pics (barring the 2 of you in blue shorts) and nice to see your wife smiling and happy

Bravo, thanks for taking the time and sharing with us, been a while since I have ridden those 'white' roads in the Balkans and would love to get down to Mostar
 
So this year, now, Oil changed, Heidenau Scouts fitted, MOTd, temporary wooden rack made for new TekLite bag and a bit of loose research done.

As mentioned I was in Yugoslavia in 1988 on my way to Romania riding my much loved R80/7. On the way back - via Circuit Paul Richard for the Bol'd'Or I had an altercation with a yacht that luckily didn't kill me but mangled the bike. We both survived and rode together many many times from the eastern block to NordKapp and over to Portugal and all point between, the rides were shared in later years with Bev and I suspect it's still her favourite ride even now (still safe and sound in the garage). Aye - forget about the yacht thing, I'll maybe tell you about it another time. I was known as 'Yacht slayer' for some time afterward!

So where were we...oh aye...reminiscing. So Bev found my 1988 diary and it made for some very interesting reading before we went. In no particular order there are some of the entries above. Let's see how things have changed (obviously it'll be 'phenomenally'). I'm a bit of a soft shite for a start now, anyways.

Bev finishes work as soon as she can Thursday 19th September and we head south for Dover and an overnight B (left early next a.m. and got second B on boat). 301miles. Booked with DFDS but they let us take an earlier boat outward at no charge.

A funny thing that happened at Dover customs on way out. Though we'd managed to get an earlier ferry I got that sunken stomach feeling as the UK customs waived us and another bike (a Rotary Norton of all things) from the lane and into the customs shed...bang goes our early ferry I thought. bloke stops us both and shows us a laminated poster "Do you have any of these items in your luggage", pictures of explosives, tazers, guns, daggers and all sorts of bizarre weaponry. Taking a chance (humour doesn't always go down with officials does it!) I says "Blimey, we have fluorescent vests and spare bulbs but I didn't know we needed all that for France too" the other biker chuckled, I confirmed we didn't have said items in our luggage and fortunately we were released without further investigation :augie

Just to be picky, that wasn't Customs/Border Force who stopped you and shepherded you into the search shed. It would have been port security, employed by Port of Dover.

UK Customs stop incoming traffic at Dover but very, very rarely stop outgoing traffic.
 
Just to be picky, that wasn't Customs/Border Force who stopped you and shepherded you into the search shed. It would have been port security, employed by Port of Dover.

UK Customs stop incoming traffic at Dover but very, very rarely stop outgoing traffic.

We had that, going out of Plymouth last month
Asked about knives etc
The blokes in bibs were really nightclub bouncers, once the ferry punters had been embarked and went off down Union Street thereafter
All quite surreal I thought
 
It was a joy to see the Adriatic sea appear for the first time in the distance. Of course, as usual, the road jut twisted and turned and was well surfaced and a joy to crank over and enjoy.

The actual Adriatic Highway is absolutely motorcycle nirvana :thumb2 - one road absolutely all motorcyclist must ride once at least - it gets better further south, but even from Rijeka it's good, particularly after Senj but down south of Split I think (from 30 year old memory) it's amazing, by sea then hundreds of metres up then down by sea again and twisty twisty twisty :thumb. wonderful stuff - I guarantee you won't be able to get enough of it (unless you tyre of bends that is!). Maybe in summer it gets more traffic, but there is a major road network inland now, anytime we were on it very little traffic....warning....you will have to 'occasionally' break the solid while line or bend speed limits. The central solid white lines can run for miles on end (as they did in '88) and on a bike there are numerous opportunities to safely pass, so too the 30kph bend limits (not t be confused with village limits of course). No doubt you would be nicked if caught in act naturally. :blush

Got to Senj, using the booking.com / google map directions app straight to base and park, wonderful place. Checked phone and yes, Stripe and Laura were in town so we were up for a meet. Just getting dark so wondered the merit of climbing off bike and going into town for what would probably be several beers, but then how many chances would you have to meet an old mate in such circumstances. a couple of calls and it was sorted, shower and into town. Only been in the place half an hour and we were out.

Found Stripe and Laura a whole 10 minutes later - the walk looked a fair way but in fact was very short. Lovely old town with lots to admire, but not much time. Lots of hugging in this rather unexpected meet and thence to drinks and swapping travel tales. Food followed, a last beer in a smoky rock bar that then wearily waited for us to all leave. A great night was had by all. We'd had an adventure in the woods and they had tales from Albania and being refused entry at (I think) Bosnia Herzegovina at one border then welcomed unquestioned at another (no advance green card).

They returned to their Autocamp - 18€ were they were completely boxed in and surrounded by huge motor homes, yet for 5€ more we had a full apartment. Would have made a huge difference if they'd shared the weather we had on our return to explore the place - plot spoiler :augie Goes to show, that's exactly what I also didn't discover were I was in Yugoslavia in '88 - rooms can be as cheap as camping, or cheaper. Nuts! Of course if we'd all known we were to be in the same place at the same time we could have coordinated, but that's the beauty of this type of travel - no plans. Late finish, late night but corking day :friday:thumb

PS - we're around 1,600 miles from home at this point for anyone's future planning - 1,300 ish from Dover

Your mate Stripe, looks awfy familiar, is it Neil from Dumfries? Great RR :thumb
 
Great RnR.....
Nice write up on each stages aswell
Thanks...:beerjug:
 
Just to be picky, that wasn't Customs/Border Force who stopped you and shepherded you into the search shed. It would have been port security, employed by Port of Dover.

UK Customs stop incoming traffic at Dover but very, very rarely stop outgoing traffic.

Ta for clarification..so....may get away with humor there then...not recommended with customs, or it didn't used to be - but maybe they, like most modern things, are more lovey dovey than fascist now too :D
 
All in all, a fantastic and fab RR, very inspirational and thought provoking

Some excellent pics (barring the 2 of you in blue shorts) and nice to see your wife smiling and happy

Bravo, thanks for taking the time and sharing with us, been a while since I have ridden those 'white' roads in the Balkans and would love to get down to Mostar

Quiet a few Germans round Senj with dirt bikes - world of choice over there and many trails easily rideable on big bikes (and many much harder too I suspect as trailers of KTMs and the like)

Shorts packed away for several months...mind they are swimming shorts so with all this rain...:eek:
 
Aye - the one and same, there with camera shy Laura. We've been bikers together since early 80's but he's kept it more authentic than wossy me :rolleyes: He was ridding back from Bulgaria :thumb

Knew it was lol, Dumfries was my home town , and used to bump into Neil all the time at different events, think I last saw him at Farmyard rally 2018!
 
Excellent ride report and some cracking photos.... Thank you for taking the time to share it with us. :thumb
 


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