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Thread: Renthal bars and OEM weights for dummies - simplicity itself

  1. #1
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    Renthal bars and OEM weights for dummies - simplicity itself

    I've finally implemented the simplest bar end solution ever for Renthal bars on the 1200. This works for Renthal Twinwalls and should work for Fatbars too (I believe the tube diameters are the same at the grip end).

    My original Renthal post detailed how to get the bars on, and the bodge I made to refit the end weights. This entailed machining down the end weights and farting about with some rubber bits to get them to stay in. It never worked properly I'm afraid, and the handguards were always a bit loose.

    Then there was Earthmovers OEM bar ends post showing how to fit the original end weights into the bars using a helicoil kit.

    I didn't fancy cutting and threading the bars, and helicoils looked far too complex. So, today I was in my local superb bolt shop (Margnor Fasteners in Guildford www.margnor.co.uk) who sell every bolt in the world. I posed the problem and they came up with some Rawlplugs.

    Ha ha ha...I hear your cynical laughter from miles away. However, these are the expanding bolt type Rawlplugs which are used to hold things into brickwork and the like.

    I bought two of these (10mm ones i.e. they take a 10mm threaded bolt). The diameter of them is almost exactly the same as that of the inside of the Twinwalls. Result!

    Then I just needed a pair of nice bolts. They had some 100mm x 10mm black countersunk head allen bolts which almost exactly match the originals.

    The OEM bar ends have long bits sticking out of them that wont go into the Renthal bars (or the BMW bars - they stick out from under the grips). To avoid cutting the handlebars as Earthmover did, I simply cut the sticky-out bits off with a hacksaw. I then painted the exposed metal with black hammerite otherwise it rusts like a 70-year old Russian charter liner.

    So here's my kit showing the cropped bar ends, the Rawlplug things, and the two bolts, plus the original alloy washer...



    The assembled concoction with the handguard on slips neatly into the end of the handlebar. Note that the outer "flange" (the smooth bit to the left of the "M10" on the above pic) on the Rawlplug does not fit into the bar but this is OK as my grips protrude outside the ends of the bar by an equivalent amount.



    Prior to inserting, make the bolt so it's just starting to tighten into the Rawlplug, but not so that the plug is expanding.

    All that's then needed is for the bolt to be tightened with an allen key (6mm) and that's it done. You can get the bolt well tight, and the handguards are superbly stable now. No more worrying about the brake lever being wedged on etc etc...

    And here's the finished article. Cool



    Cutting the weights with a hacksaw took 10 mins. Painting 1 min. Fitting (whilst paint still tacky due to rank impatience) took 5 mins. Result!

    I'm sure Margnor will send you the relevant bits if you ring them up. Say that want the same stuff that the mad bloke with the bar ends had on Wednesday afternoon and they should know what you're on about.

    For reference, a pair of new end weights from BMW is about £22 I think, so dont worry about ruining yours too much.

    Cheers!

    Andy

  2. #2
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    These "rawplugs" as you call them, are essentially what the handguard manufacturer's like Acerbis use to attach their's. I've fitted enough of them over them years.

  3. #3
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    Thumbs up

    Tobers!
    How come none of us even contemplated using those expanding "bolts"... I've used them for shelves, for ground anchors etc,... but handlebars.. nope, could not connect the dots!

    I'm still pondering a bit to if I should cut my bars or my weights...

    Hmmm....

    Thanks for the excellent post and pics!

  4. #4
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    Cut the weights. You'll be hard pressed to find a long enough 10mm bolt with a nice matching head otherwise. I know - I tried! 100mm is about as long as they get it seems. Also the Rawlplugs will be pushed too far into the bars (Twinwalls anyway) and get blocked by the join of the grip part of the bar with the bent part.

    Also...new weights = £20. New bars = £80. Go figure....

  5. #5
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    Didn't Margnor have any Stainless bolts ?

    They'll be rusty by November.

  6. #6
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    Yep - got them on order.

    Dont suppose anything goes rusty down your way....

  7. #7
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    Rawlbolts !

    Yep, this is the exact cure I found last year when I fitted a set of Gilles VarioBars to my VFR800 Vtec. I didn't order Gilles own bar ends when I ordered the bars and had to come up with a solution to fitting a set of stainless 'ends onto the open ends. Worked a treat, never came loose and the next owner who bought the Gilles was mildly amused when I fitted them to his P&J.
    Why so serious ?

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    rust ?? vaguely remember it..........

  9. #9
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    Now that is a lot easier! Nice one Tobers. I will be switching bars (again) presently, as the 971 bend is looking to be the perfect comprimise, might even go with the blue ones, a la Joker. I also have a cunning plan to have two sets of bars, one with the weights for road use, one with a decent set of ally bark busters for crash testing. Your method would make it a lot simpler. Ta!
    Mark
    Just when you've got this rat race licked, here come faster rats!

  10. #10
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    Thinking more on this
    I want the OEM bar end weights to dampen vibration on the road, and to use the handguards for weather protection. I want bark busters for off-road to minimise the damage from the inevitable contact with trees, terra firma, other competitors ( ) etc, where the vibration won't be as much of a problem.
    Using Tobers method, the bars don't need to be cut down, so to swap over will be a simple matter of removing the bar weights and handguards, then replace with bark busters by adding the clamp inboard of the levers. All I will need is to find a shorter bolt to fit the rawlplug
    Nice one Tobers.
    Mark
    Just when you've got this rat race licked, here come faster rats!

  11. #11
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    True indeed. Let me know if you cant get the right bolts as I can try Margnor for you, though I think the 100mm one would fit into the bars OK without the weights on.

    Oh I'm so happy

  12. #12
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    Oh I'm so happy

    hows your subaru ??

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    Bog off you damned colonial interloper

  14. #14
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    Thumbs up I've done it.

    Just came in from the garage where I fitted my OEM bar end weights to the Renthal bars. (as fitted in this thread: http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47835 )

    I cut my bar ends off using a hacksaw and a drill fitted to a workbench. I basically screwed my normal drill onto the workbench. Put in a threaded M8 bar in the drill. Put the bar end weight on, and used two nuts to lock it onto the threaded bar. I then started the drill, and carefully put my hacksaw onto the bar end. About 2 minutes later I had the bar end cut off... repeat procedure for the other side.

    To get the weights fitted I used a bit of electrickery tape on the "expanding-thingee" and put them inside the bars, and assembled everything as if it were a factory item. I even used the bolt that came with the "expanding-thingee" - not very pretty, but very useful. Total about 15 minute job or so.

    Well pleased. Thanks for the Tip Tobers!

  15. #15
    Dave C
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    Earthmover or Tobers....

    When the bars and handguards are fitted, does anything foul the windscreen on full lock (without the risers fitted Tobers) ??? Will look to fit
    a set of Fatbars if no bars/screen problems

    Many thanks for the info

    Dave

  16. #16
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    My handguards did catch on the screen originally, but I fitted the "up and back" risers to bring the bars nearer to me (I only have short arms, 'cos I'm a shortarse!) and no problems now. My screen is on the 3rd setting from the top if that helps.
    Mark
    Just when you've got this rat race licked, here come faster rats!

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