Fuel injector problem?

AndyB_11

AndyB_11

Still waiting
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Ok, the bike has been standing for ages with only occasional start ups because basically it’s my winter bike so now it’s getting colder it’s time to mot it and get back to using it. I started it a fortnight ago and it ran ok after minor reluctance to start but today it’s only running on one cylinder. The plugs are dry on both sides and both give a decent visible spark so plugs, leads and coils are ok which narrows it down to fuel.

How do I check the injectors, what’s the best way to clean them and am I opening a nasty can of worms with this? It’s an old GS so I’m not expecting anything too technical because these things run for years and are the perfect round the World tourer aren’t they?

It’s the right hand cylinder that’s not getting fuel if that makes a difference?
 
Update:
I’ve just removed the injectors and having put a bit of paper in front and cranked the engine it looks as if they’re throwing the same amount of fuel from each one so where do I look next?
 
Andy,
look for a post by Roger04rt about testing fuel flow, by disconnecting the return to tank line.
It maybe the regulator sticking.

The n after all that get some injector cleaner along with fresh fuel

HTH
Neil
 
Sorted :D

I did the obvious thing of looking deeper into the site search engine and there it was.....

The right hand throttle cable was a bit sticky so I’ve given everything a heavy dose of WD40 to make sure both sides are running smoothly and it runs like a GS should do.

My next mission is to swap the tank for a GSA one while I’m in the mood for bike fettling so what should I be looking out for, what are the pitfalls and is it just a case of removing the plate holding the pump, filter etc are is there a trap waiting for my unsuspecting fingers :blast
 
I’ve got the tank sitting at home and I’ve now changed the breather pipes over and need to refit the side plate. Unfortunately the previous owner had fitted jubilee clips at the side plate connections and it’s a bit of a fight to get them in the right place so the plate fits on. I’ve retreated into the house for a brew before going back to it and it might be simply a case of push fitting them because they’re pretty tight as they are.

Yes, it’s a bit pointless if I’m away with my wife who won’t have the same range but she’s highly unlikely to come away with me to a winter rally in Denmark next January and the bigger tank will get me through to my mid-point hotel without a stop which will suit me perfectly unless it’s absolutely tipping it down and I get desperate for a warm up somewhere.
 
If you’re fitting the internals of a standard tank into a larger Adv tank the fuel readings will be wrong.
 
I can cope with a misreading fuel gauge as long as I know the capacity because on a run the bike averages 50mpg and I always reset the trip.
 
The tank is fitted but after all the messing around sorting out why it wasn’t running right I didn’t take it for an mot so that’s one for next weekend.

I’ve not bolted the tank down because the battery was a bit poor in seriously low temperatures last winter so I’ll order one later then fit it before taking the bike for an mot test. I still need to sort out the right hand heated grip that had an intermittent fault last winter but I might just buy a set of Oxford ones and replace both at the same time, it’ll be a lot cheaper than buying a pair of new BMW ones and I don’t want chilly fingers once I’ve fitted furry muffs.

35a68162b8e43c0174827bf3ee406615.jpg
 
Here I am stuck at the Waterloo hotel, near A6 Buxton. It has been difficult to start for a month at least. It eventually starts and runs OK but, running rich.
Battery near dead trying to get it fired up. Put new iridium plugs in just now, still no go.
Checked injectors by turning on starter. Not continuous jetting just nothing then split.
Must be a blockage somewhere.

Sent from my MI 9 using Tapatalk
 
I’ll leave the thread open then because someone might have the answer and hopefully it’ll be as straightforward as mine was to solve.
 
I could not find the info from ‘Roger04rt’ via search on fuel problems.
Anyway, would it be logical to work my way back from the injectors to try and blow out any sediment blockage or tank internal filter?
Only my second filter in 85K miles so probably due anyway for a new one.

Also, I read somewhere you can replace the internal ‘U’ rubber hose with a metal one. If I read right, where to buy?

Thanks



Patria o Muerte
 
Rugged Path said:
I could not find the info from ‘Roger04rt’ via search on fuel problems.
Anyway, would it be logical to work my way back from the injectors to try and blow out any sediment blockage or tank internal filter?
Only my second filter in 85K miles so probably due anyway for a new one.

Also, I read somewhere you can replace the internal ‘U’ rubber hose with a metal one. If I read right, where to buy?

Thanks



Patria o Muerte
Click to expand...

Jeez that many filters ..must be some crap in the petrol where you are ,if you have a search on ADVrider theres a guy MOUTHFULLOFFLAKE that does the metal u bends plus paralever bearings/bushings too think GordonGraham on here has them fitted to his R1100GS
 
Rugged Path said:
I could not find the info from ‘Roger04rt’ via search on fuel problems.
Anyway, would it be logical to work my way back from the injectors to try and blow out any sediment blockage or tank internal filter?
Only my second filter in 85K miles so probably due anyway for a new one.

Also, I read somewhere you can replace the internal ‘U’ rubber hose with a metal one. If I read right, where to buy?

Thanks



Patria o Muerte
Click to expand...

Here you go: https://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/391533-R1150-Fuel-System-Diagnostic-Tool

This lets you test the internals without removing the tank and taking it apart.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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