AUSTRALIA 2019/2020

The East coast is getting it bad still, I used this site to keep track of the fires and adjust the route if needed. Pretty much from Cairns to short of Melbourne has fires with more scattered throughout the country.

https://myfirewatch.landgate.wa.gov.au/map.html

Where you headed ?
Adelaide, Barossa, Flinders, Byron Bay, Perth, Margaret River.

Via Vietnam.
 
If you get the chance Albany is a nice little town with a great ANZAC museum and south of Margaret River is Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse, worth a visit. Caves Road (Tourist Road 250) leads up to Margaret River and on the north Coast is Busselton with a cool jetty, if you are driving in that area.
 
Next stop Meekatharra, a 320 mile jaunt with a fuel stop in the middle. Only fuel to be had in Dalwallinu was 91 octane and the bike is supposed to run on 98, what could possibly go wrong !

Filled up and headed off to mount Magnet up the Northern Highway and the temperature rose and the landscape became more barren. Then short of Mount Magnet the bike started to loose power and kangaroo (see, Australian reference). Made Mount Magnet and filled up with 91 as its all they had and set off again keeping an eye out for wildlife and road trains.

Short of Meekatharra and the bike was kangarooing again when I pulled into the fuel station. Turns out that when the tank is half empty the fuel pump is above the petrol line and gets hot and begins to cut out. Again only fuel available is 91 so in it goes. Added some extra fuel tanks as I wanted to keep the tank full and fuel consumption increased with the low grade petrol, this came back to bite me in the ass.

Bed for the night was the Commercial Hotel, the motel behind is basic but has a bed, en-suite and tv so what more do you want. Chain lubed and oil checked it was time to wander through the town, there goes 10 mins the towns look a lot bigger on the map, and then into the hotel for dinner, beer and a chat to the truckers and miners.
 

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The road trains a big but the drivers are very good. Give you clear signals when it is safe to pass them and if you are going slow they pass with plenty of room.
 

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Bike packed and the next long day, just under 400 miles, up to the Auski Roadhouse near Karijini National Park. The temperature was in the mid 30’s and the road deserted. Bought a couple of extra fuel cans as the consumption was getting a bit high and I wanted to have enough in reserve in case a petrol station was out of fuel. Road was more empty desert and progress good until the fueling issue again.

Met an interesting trucker who showed me pictures of the vintage bikes he and his mates took to England for a rally years ago, never know who you will meet. The cattle truck is a double layer and when loaded weighs in at 160 tonnes !

Stopped about an hour from my destination to top up the tank and discovered one of the spare caps had a damage seal on the filler cap and petrol had leaked over my luggage and over me, soaking my right hip. Next mistake was to try to wash it off with some water from my camelback, only succeeded in making the burn hurt more so no option but to suck it up and ride for an hour to the roadhouse.

Walked in and was greeted by two girls asking what the petrol smell was…..me. They didn’t have skin cream but got some burn cream from the first aid kit and off I want to shower fully clothed to wash the petrol out. Rooms in roadhouses are generally very basic but you get the essentials.

Dinner was chatting to truckers in the “restaurant” and a few bears before turning in for an early night as I had the ride to the national park in the morning. Went to check out in the morning and the girls had found a sealed contained and filled it with burn cream for me to take on my travels, got to love Australians always helpful.
 

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Wave Rock is mind boggling.
There's a reasonably good motel nearby which is surrounded by salt lakes and encrusted vegetation - petrified trees etc. Early morning colours are photogenic.

Not much else there but the scenery is stunning.
Love the way crows sound in OZ.



Like babies crying lol
 
Next day was another glorious sunny one and I headed off Karijini National Park after filling up as there is no petrol in the park. Only a short 50 mile ride on tarmac to Dales George. Helmet and jacket secured to bike and off I went for a few hours walking along the top of the George and then down into it and along the bottom. There are pools at each end, one for the men and one for the women. The women would leave food for the men at their pool and then leave so they could bathe in peace, these Aboriginal’s got things right. The heat rose and it was a lot harder going than I thought. Wandering along the bottom the wildlife came out to play.

After a few hours I was knackered and headed to the camp site, the road is graded but after 500 yards it soon became apparent the bike and the tyres were not going to survive 20 miles of gravel strewn washboard road. The tyres were Mitas Terra Force which were billed as 70/30 by the hire company but 90/10 by Mitas which is closer, there was no grip for steering over the marbles that made up the surface. Discretion being the better part of valour, we will come back to this point later, I opted to take the longer road route that only needed a few miles of track at the end.

Arrived late afternoon at the camp site and retired to my luxury tent, glamping whatever next, did the bike maintenance, showered and headed to the restraint for beer and food before retiring to watch a huge thunderstorm and enjoy the rain. Wondered what the road out would be like but no point in worrying as I had to leave in the morning come what may.
 

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A few more pictures in the park, no idea what the lizard was but it scared the crap out of me when it ran out. The blue stuff on the rock is raw asbestos, lots of warning signs not to disturb it around the place but still people want to touch.
 

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Nicely done Chris, enjoying your piccies & write up....your trips are always an 'adventure' :D
 
After the thunderstorms and a night glamping, can’t believe I have stooped so low, it was the great schlep across to Exmouth on the coast. This was the one that was definitely touch and go regarding fuel so the extra tanks would come in handy. First stop after navigating the marbles was the little town of Tom Price, 50 miles from the camp site. Turns out only 91 octane again so mixed with the 98 from the spare tanks and on I went to Paraburdoo a further 50 miles to top off all the tanks before heading out some 170 miles to the Nanutarra Roadhouse on the North West Coastal Highway, number 1. I know some of you are thinking the bike can easily go more than 170 miles but the next fuel after that is 170 miles so the golden rule is fill up when you can as the next fuel stop might not have any fuel !

Lunch at the Roadhouse was met with the usual comments of “are you crazy, your on your own, aren’t you scared of breaking down” and the less common “respect”. Met a German couple in a 4 x 4 who were having cooling issues, every 30 miles or so they needed to fill up the radiator. They were somewhat worried when I told them there was nothing for 170 miles, no trees, no shelter. I managed well over a hour before seeing another vehicle. From the Roadhouse I had great directions, go 70 miles and turn right, go 50 miles to the end of the road and turn right, go 55 miles and you are there. You can’t really go wrong as there is only 1 road.

Rolling into Exmouth there are huge termite mounds in the desert next to the road. Apparently they are very solid so going off road and hitting one is a very bad idea. Made the town and was greeted by an emu in the caravan park. Usual routine of unloading and maintaining the bike (oil, chain, water etc) then a shower and off to town and a nice pub with locally brewed beer for dinner.
 

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Full day to be spent in Exmouth exploring the town, it’s not that big. Ride north out of the town heading for the lighthouse and miss the turning and ride into the restricted military base, time for a quick U – turn and read the sat nav not look at the scenery.

Found the lighthouse which was built after the SS Mildura went down in 1907 with 498 cattle on board. The crew were rescued but the cattle were turned loose to swim less than 1 km to shore but most drowned.

Fast forward to February 1943 and an early warning radar station was established for the defence of the US Naval base at Exmouth. May 1943 and the air raid gunners fired off 36 rounds at the approaching Japanese. The Second World War had come to North West Australia.

We move on to the cold war in the early 60’s and the US Navy had a giant gap in their communications with their nuclear powered submarines. US Naval Communications Station North West Cape was established comprising 13 towers that made up the VLF (very low frequency) transmitter, the main mast being 389 m high. It is still in use today as a vital communications station. In the photos the foreground is a new holiday complex.

Took a ride down the coast for a bit then back to the other side of town before deciding to wash the petrol stained clothes in the camp laundry. Sign said “no flammable materials” but what the hell, what’s the worst that can happen. No longer smelling of petrol it was time to go for dinner again in a local pub.
 

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The ride into town went via some new houses then down to the rich area where you can moor your boat right outside you house, very nice.
 

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After 2 nights rest in Exmouth it was time to head south on a short 240 mile jaunt. Crossed the Tropic of Capricorn (missed the sign going north). Started to get hot with temperatures in the low 40’s (how little did I know of what was to come) as I rode down towards Carnarvon. Stopped at the Space and Technology Museum just outside town, very interesting place which celebrates the little known role it played in the manned space programme and the Australian communications industry.

It was built to support NASA’s Gemini, Apollo and Skylab programs, commissioned in 1964 and operated for 11 years. It was the last station to communicate with the space capsules leaving the earth orbit, and the last to make contact before splashdown in the Pacific Ocean.

The Satellite Earth Station was opened in1966, initially with the 12.8 metre wide Casshorn antenna as part of the global satellite communications system. The Casshorn antenna has interacting parabolic and hyperbolic reflectors in a characteristic ‘sugar scoop’ form.

On 21 July 1969, the day of the Apollo 11 moon landing, the Casshorn antenna relayed Neil Armstrong’s first steps on the Moon from NASA's Honey Suckle Creek Tracking Station to Perth's TV audience via Moree earth station - the first live telecast into Western Australia.
 

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Dinner was chatting to truckers in the “restaurant” and a few bears before turning in for an early night as I had the ride to the national park in the morning. Went to check out in the morning and the girls had found a sealed contained and filled it with burn cream for me to take on my travels, got to love Australians always helpful.

I bet that was a "Grizzly" experience:D. I'm here all week......;)
 
Another glorious day and it was time to head south to Kalbarri National Park. More desert to cross and eventually over the 26th parallel signaling leaving the North West. Stopped off to look at some Stromatolites which have been around for over 3 billion years, more than 75 % of the earths geological history. They are microbial mats, the earth’s oldest ecosystem.

After that it was a case of completing the 330 mile trip and pulling into Kalbarri for the next 2 nights and heading out to look at the town before feeding and watering myself.
 

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Rest day so up in time to go see the pelican feeding and get a bite for breakfast. Rode a short 25 miles into Kalbarri National Park and walked down to natures window for the obligatory scenic photo, complete with fat bloke taking a selfie. Another hot day so did a bit of riding and sight seeing before returning to town for a late lunch and a little ride south.

Back at the motel to check the bike for the next day, shower and head off into town for beer and food, you might have noticed a theme developing here. Walking back to the motel late after a few beers in the local pub I got scared shitless by a couple of kangaroo’s I thought were statues until I got close and they hopped off.
 

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Town is nice with a decent harbour, greedy pelicans and a good pub.
 

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