Apparently the carbon wheels on the S1000RR's have been failing as well. I don't know that for fact, but I have seen a few photos of them coming apart at the hub and my friend has heard of a couple already as well...
Another rear wheel collapse..
- Thread starter Oldrat
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I stand corrected then.
Carbon fibre wheels were never recommended for road use when they first appeared anyway.
What carbon wheels are those? Not aware of them being standard or optional fitment?
Forged wheels?
New RR Can come with carbon wheels
Melber mags were collapsing in the 70s especially after a minger of a wheelie; nowt new.
As others have said, the M Sport version comes standard fit with them. I've not heard a lot of issues with reputable company carbon wheels to be honest, but I've also not been around enough of them to make a reasonable comparison. I know they're less than ideal for road riding but if they're being supplied on a road bike as standard fit from and OEM you'd think that they should be fit for purpose on the road. But wouldn't be the first time a vehicle has been supplied with something not fit for purpose, so...
TKCC are the carbon jobbies fitted to the HP4 Race, track only bike. Austrian company supplies them for the road 1000RR bike I believe. Seen one damaged carbon wheel from the road RR. Didn't let any air out or collapse. There was just a small raised 'split' in the surface close to a spoke; hub end.
Search on the web and some USA 1000RR forums have more info. I run a BST rear on my Panigale with no probs whatsoever.
Search on the web and some USA 1000RR forums have more info. I run a BST rear on my Panigale with no probs whatsoever.
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Tripleblack13
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Couldn’t agree more. I had them fitted to my new 1250 when I bought it for the same reasons.
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The version fitted to the GSA from 2006 through 2012 were fine. Had around 55,000 miles on two of my GSAs, no issues - not even a spot of corrosion on the spokes.
Tripleblack13
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Bet they aren’t round or straight though ? Had 2 GSA’s from that generation and neither had round or straight wheels. I even paid to get them ‘true’d’ up and couldn’t sort them.
I mate of mine had a 1998 1100gs that had perfect wheels.
I ended up putting cast wheels onto the bikes.
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New hear so apology if not good question, how did you check if round and straight please.
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Wheels off,
Fix into a jig and spin them with a dial gauge and check the vertical and lateral tolerances.
Or get someone else to do it...
Bet they aren’t round or straight though ? Had 2 GSA’s from that generation and neither had round or straight wheels. I even paid to get them ‘true’d’ up and couldn’t sort them.
I mate of mine had a 1998 1100gs that had perfect wheels.
I ended up putting cast wheels onto the bikes.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Got to ask how come you did not get them replaced by the dealer if they were faulty .
I had 13 with spokes , no issues , a 15 no issues (apart from I blew the engine ) and a 16 no issues now on the 19 plate all good still , buckled a few alloys during that time as they are soft .
Usually fit the spokes when two up when touring and back lane riding , alloys mainly for the Spanish trips and thro winter as most say , easier to clean.
Update on this
So, just a brief update on this as it is now 'sorted' between myself and BMW.
Root cause = rear caliper bolts becoming loose and allowing the rear caliper plate to launch itself into my rear wheel.
My local dealer had serviced the bike shortly before this happened. It is not on their schedule to check the bolts.
After the service I swapped out a set of PR$ Trails and fitted TA3's. BMW argued that I COULD have decided to remove the rear caliper! I could not prove that I hadn't.
I basically got my bike back on the road with the help of the dealer. They fitted second hand parts bought by me and discounted the labour cost dramatically. Whilst I wasn't happy with this, it got me my bike back in a warrantied state so I could enjoy her again.
I have spent the last few weeks working up the chain of BMW in the hope that someone would see sense. Yesterday was the day when this all came good. I am still somewhat out of pocket, but I received a payment that covers the majority of the bills.
Lesson learned: check your caliper bolts on a regular basis.
So, just a brief update on this as it is now 'sorted' between myself and BMW.
Root cause = rear caliper bolts becoming loose and allowing the rear caliper plate to launch itself into my rear wheel.
My local dealer had serviced the bike shortly before this happened. It is not on their schedule to check the bolts.
After the service I swapped out a set of PR$ Trails and fitted TA3's. BMW argued that I COULD have decided to remove the rear caliper! I could not prove that I hadn't.I basically got my bike back on the road with the help of the dealer. They fitted second hand parts bought by me and discounted the labour cost dramatically. Whilst I wasn't happy with this, it got me my bike back in a warrantied state so I could enjoy her again.
I have spent the last few weeks working up the chain of BMW in the hope that someone would see sense. Yesterday was the day when this all came good. I am still somewhat out of pocket, but I received a payment that covers the majority of the bills.
Lesson learned: check your caliper bolts on a regular basis.
Both rear bolts working loose?
Do not think so....
Also if one bolt was loose the caliper would still be in situ as it covers the rear disk. For the alloy on the swing arm to break the the caliper has to come off or spokes damaged the caliper and snapped it off.
Not convinced on BMWs answer to this.
Do not think so....
Also if one bolt was loose the caliper would still be in situ as it covers the rear disk. For the alloy on the swing arm to break the the caliper has to come off or spokes damaged the caliper and snapped it off.
Not convinced on BMWs answer to this.
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