Changing Belt - crash-bars removal or not?

Bin Ridin

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Hi,
I changed the belt on my 2010 R1200GSA 2 years back and cannot recall whether I took the crash bars off or not to get the front plastic cover out.
I suspect I did not, but not sure.

Can anyone tell me if bars have to come off or not?

Thanks,

Bn
 
No help to you but when I was painting my engine cover I’d them off and replaced the belt. Broke a bolt into the engine holding on the bars was a nightmare to get out. Replaced all with stainless steel ones.


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Plastic cover comes off fine with bars on, but I couldn't get purchase with spanner to turn new belt on without removing bars
 
Thanks, I'll get into it and report back! As long as I don't have to take off those effin' bars....
 
Plastic cover comes off fine with bars on, but I couldn't get purchase with spanner to turn new belt on without removing bars

I dare say someone will confirm but I don't believe you need to turn with a spanner, either put in gear and turn rear wheel or dab the starter.

I'm sure in the past Steptoe has covered this.
 
It all came back to me...
The key thing is to remember there is more space on the left side than the right when it comes to getting the plastic cover out.... not that difficult. Weird part is that the two screws at the sides are T20 heads while the two at the top and the one bottom centre are T15.....
I have changed this belt before and it is not that difficult. Luckily, I have a lift so putting the bike up a bit makes it easier. I use a Bahco shifter on the crank nut, pulling the belt forward in mid-length left side while turning clockwise. The ribs ride over the ridges and it soon comes free. Putting new one on not that different, put it on the top pulley, then push onto the bottom one at 4 o'clock while turning clockwise.
Small bit of corrosion on the bottom of case, scraped and rattle-canned with Hammerite.
Will put cover back in morning when the last of the paint will be dry.

Not looking forward to the salt season here, they seem demented about a bit of frost in Wicklow.
 

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And the Hammerite....
 

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The correct Torx sizes are: Top and Bottom 3 screws T20. Sides 2 screws T25.
The Crank nut size is 34mm AF. I used an adjustable wrench, it is not very tight to turn, engine cold, even with plugs in. I'll look out for a 34mm AF spanner..
 
I dare say someone will confirm but I don't believe you need to turn with a spanner, either put in gear and turn rear wheel or dab the starter.

I'm sure in the past Steptoe has covered this.

Oh yeah... just remembered... with the plugs out :blast
 
The job would need two people if turning crank via rear wheel or starter, so turning by crank nut is the simplest.
 


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