Deleted account 200123001
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I've been running with a 21" front wheel for over 6 months now.
The build has been going on much longer....
I'd looked at quite a few threads on different forums for info and the most obvious start was an r100 21" wheel...no joy for a sensible price to just destroy.
I decided the next best option was a twin disc f800 wheel as I wanted something proprietary and converting from 40 spokes to 36 made a lot of sense in principle.
A kind chap on here confirmed the disc spacing for an f800 is within a few mm similar to a 1200lc.
So.. thanks to eBay I source a cheap F800 21" wheel and offer it up.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/gp/51176983@N02/81v16u" title="2019-12-02_07-12-00"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49159778117_57f19bec5f_b.jpg" width="720" height="960" alt="2019-12-02_07-12-00"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
From the off, I knew the calipers would clash with the spokes as the F800 runs 2 pots not 4s.
First problem....brake calipers, how do you mount axial calipers onto radial mounts?
I decide the next best thing to do is buy some F800 2 pots to try.
<script async="" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
And then a set of Brembo Orie discs and pads..
To make this work do I...
F&@k I've just wasted 650quid on a project that's not going to work! None of these ideas are practical!
Then as if by magic up pops an R100 21" wheel on here cheap!
Happy days. Wheel secured.
Around this time a damaged r1200 lc wheel pops up cheap on eBay.
Wheel secured.
Pulling this apart was a doddle
<script async="" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Strip down of the r100 wheel...easier with the tyre on I find with the spokes being loose.
This is too easy...the wheel has clearly already been apart once.
<script async="" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Using the spokes I have I do a quick lash up to help measure the new ones.
<script async="" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
I measure, then re-measure and check again twice more.
I bite the bullet and order a set of new custom spokes from classic wheels.
They turn up just over a week later.....fantastic.
During this time I'm reading up on truing bmw wheels. From speaking to a few wheel builders over the last two months it seems everyone hates them. I've never trued let alone built a wheel....but seriously how hard can it be?
Unlike conventional rims you can not true the rim by making local adjustments in isolation.
The hub and the rim are both immovable objects that will neither deflect or deform
I commence lacing up the wheel with the spokes finger tight.
I set up the truing rig and fiddle for a couple of hours. This isn't working I'm a mile out and getting no closer. The x-lace pattern is incredibly strong so is not well suited to large adjustments.
I decided to slacken off completely and start again.
I make a jig from some bits and bobs and some angle which allows me to get the hub central, nearly parrallel and with the correct offset with the spokes completely slack.
I then tighten the spokes to finger tight to fix the position.
I flip the wheel vertical, mount back in the paddock stand with the clamp still on and set up the dial gauge. That's better.
I also numbered the spokes holes which makes it easier to track adjustments and reactions.
Now much closer.
Now the time consuming bit. You have to remember the rule of opposites.
Set the dial gauge mid range so you can measure +/- and spin the wheel.
First concentricity by measuring the rise and fall vertically, then parallelity.
To move the rim in any direction you must use the spokes on the opposite side and do the opposite to the opposite spoke noting that you will observe a reaction on the opposite side (180 degrees) of the wheel as the rim pivots about the 90 and 270 angle from the point of adjustment...
It sounds awkward but once you get used to it... the secret is small adjustments like 1/4 turns at the very most.
I've heard others say if you so something wrong you need to slacken everything off and start again. I disagree.
Just make sure you keep track of what your doing so if you can undo a wrong action.
After a couple of hours the rim is true...though it has a defect with a sideways shift of a few mm. Im not bothered as this will get pummelled off-road.
Next task torque it up. This needs to be done as opposites to keep the trueness 5nm is all that's needed.
Done...
<script async="" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Okay, all in all its a taken a weekend to build this wheel including the failed first attempt then making the jig and then redoing.
It was time consuming but definitely not hard.
I knew from the advrider article the oem mudguard would have to go.
Very little clearance so brake splitter needs to go.
New tyre on after a nipped tube *bastard*. UHD tube used this time with a Dunlop d908 rally raid. Very stiff side walls care of Timolgra on here for a very good price.
<script async="" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
The Mudguard is a perpetual problem, using generic enduro guards creates it's own problems so after some bodgineering.
I read on advrider you do need a mudguard else too much shite comes up through the cockpit area.
I'll try a F800 mudguard at some point but I'm a bit fed up of haemoraging money into this project. Time to just ride.
The build has been going on much longer....
I'd looked at quite a few threads on different forums for info and the most obvious start was an r100 21" wheel...no joy for a sensible price to just destroy.
I decided the next best option was a twin disc f800 wheel as I wanted something proprietary and converting from 40 spokes to 36 made a lot of sense in principle.
A kind chap on here confirmed the disc spacing for an f800 is within a few mm similar to a 1200lc.
So.. thanks to eBay I source a cheap F800 21" wheel and offer it up.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/gp/51176983@N02/81v16u" title="2019-12-02_07-12-00"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49159778117_57f19bec5f_b.jpg" width="720" height="960" alt="2019-12-02_07-12-00"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
From the off, I knew the calipers would clash with the spokes as the F800 runs 2 pots not 4s.
First problem....brake calipers, how do you mount axial calipers onto radial mounts?
I decide the next best thing to do is buy some F800 2 pots to try.
<script async="" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>And then a set of Brembo Orie discs and pads..
To make this work do I...
- Fit a set of 1150 forks that have axial mounts?
- Flip the 1200 forks so the radial mounts are on the front and make up some kind of uber clamp to take the F800 calipers.
- Machine a chunk out of the 1200 forks to fit the F800 calipers with some kind of adapter.
- Make up some kind of mount for the F800 calipers to fix somewhere between 3 o clock to 5 o clock where they may get smashed off off-road?]
F&@k I've just wasted 650quid on a project that's not going to work! None of these ideas are practical!
Then as if by magic up pops an R100 21" wheel on here cheap!
Happy days. Wheel secured.
Around this time a damaged r1200 lc wheel pops up cheap on eBay.
Wheel secured.
Pulling this apart was a doddle
<script async="" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>Strip down of the r100 wheel...easier with the tyre on I find with the spokes being loose.
This is too easy...the wheel has clearly already been apart once.
<script async="" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>Using the spokes I have I do a quick lash up to help measure the new ones.
<script async="" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>I measure, then re-measure and check again twice more.
I bite the bullet and order a set of new custom spokes from classic wheels.
They turn up just over a week later.....fantastic.
During this time I'm reading up on truing bmw wheels. From speaking to a few wheel builders over the last two months it seems everyone hates them. I've never trued let alone built a wheel....but seriously how hard can it be?
Unlike conventional rims you can not true the rim by making local adjustments in isolation.
The hub and the rim are both immovable objects that will neither deflect or deform
I commence lacing up the wheel with the spokes finger tight.
I set up the truing rig and fiddle for a couple of hours. This isn't working I'm a mile out and getting no closer. The x-lace pattern is incredibly strong so is not well suited to large adjustments.
I decided to slacken off completely and start again.
I make a jig from some bits and bobs and some angle which allows me to get the hub central, nearly parrallel and with the correct offset with the spokes completely slack.
I then tighten the spokes to finger tight to fix the position.
I flip the wheel vertical, mount back in the paddock stand with the clamp still on and set up the dial gauge. That's better.
I also numbered the spokes holes which makes it easier to track adjustments and reactions.
Now much closer.
Now the time consuming bit. You have to remember the rule of opposites.
Set the dial gauge mid range so you can measure +/- and spin the wheel.
First concentricity by measuring the rise and fall vertically, then parallelity.
To move the rim in any direction you must use the spokes on the opposite side and do the opposite to the opposite spoke noting that you will observe a reaction on the opposite side (180 degrees) of the wheel as the rim pivots about the 90 and 270 angle from the point of adjustment...
It sounds awkward but once you get used to it... the secret is small adjustments like 1/4 turns at the very most.
I've heard others say if you so something wrong you need to slacken everything off and start again. I disagree.
Just make sure you keep track of what your doing so if you can undo a wrong action.
After a couple of hours the rim is true...though it has a defect with a sideways shift of a few mm. Im not bothered as this will get pummelled off-road.
Next task torque it up. This needs to be done as opposites to keep the trueness 5nm is all that's needed.
Done...
<script async="" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>Okay, all in all its a taken a weekend to build this wheel including the failed first attempt then making the jig and then redoing.
It was time consuming but definitely not hard.
I knew from the advrider article the oem mudguard would have to go.
Very little clearance so brake splitter needs to go.
New tyre on after a nipped tube *bastard*. UHD tube used this time with a Dunlop d908 rally raid. Very stiff side walls care of Timolgra on here for a very good price.
<script async="" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>The Mudguard is a perpetual problem, using generic enduro guards creates it's own problems so after some bodgineering.
I read on advrider you do need a mudguard else too much shite comes up through the cockpit area.
I'll try a F800 mudguard at some point but I'm a bit fed up of haemoraging money into this project. Time to just ride.
