23952 ABS sensor fault - 2010 GSA

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Got the above fault on my scanner with the associated brake failure light on the dash.

Is this usually just a straight replacement of the front speed sensor or can it be something else?

Thanks in advance

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Got the above fault on my scanner with the associated brake failure light on the dash.

Is this usually just a straight replacement of the front speed sensor or can it be something else?

Thanks in advance

6780e7ab3d757ad461550897758965e8.jpg



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At a guess, i would say it's a fault on the front wheel sensor, an electrical fault that is and it'll be just a case of replacing it.

Hope that helps :thumb2
 
Have a look at the cable near the wheel hub, you might find damage which can be repaired.
 
Thanks, I’ve ordered a new abs sensor so hopefully that’ll sort it.

And yes the battery is a little old and being replaced!


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Well fitted the new front ABS sensor and it doesn't seem to have sorted it. Tried clearing the code but it still remains with the BRAKE FAIL light on the dash.

Anyone got any further ideas? it doesn't through up any other ABS fault code apart from the above.
 
Probably worth finding a wiring diagram and finding which pinout on the ecu carries the front wheel sensor signal then doing a continuity check between the respective ecu connector pin and the wheel sensor.
 
when it says front sensor on ANY diagnostic kit including main dealer ISTA it can be either and its always the rear that breaks
 
Botus that’s interesting! I’ll swap over the sensors front/rear and see if it makes a difference

Thanks


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The rear ABS sensor on my 2012 GSA failed this week, although that was correctly diagnosed as the rear, not front (I hope). Bit miffed, considering it was replaced at the end of August and only about 9,000 miles ago.

The speedo took a while to kick in when it failed in August, but this week the speedo has been working from the off. New sensor due to come in next week and fitting it Thursday.

Good luck to the OP. Hope swapping the rear sorts it. ABS has the potential to be rather helpful at this time of year.
 
I know of 3 bikes where the bike throws an error and the TC can't cope with life and the speedo never misses a beat ….always rear ABS sensor
swapping from front to back is a very good idea
 
I’m at a bit of a loss as I pulled the rear wheel sensor and it threw a different fault for the rear ABS sensor, but the front was still there.

The rear cleared fine when plugged back in but the from persists.

Where next to try?! And will the bike pass an MOT with the ‘brake fail’ light?


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A bit puzzling alright, since you fitted a new sensor.
Have you had the bike on the road since fitting new sensor? Or put it on main stand and spin front wheel?
What about wiring connection from new to old, any chance this is a problem? Could the pins in the connector be disengaged somehow?
Could the upstream wiring be a problem somewhere?

Here is info copied from HUBB posting:

Unplug the sensor and check resistance across the two wires. If its open circuit the internal coil is stuffed, you need a new sensor.

Set your meter to AC. Yes AC not DC. Spin the wheel. A good steady voltage is correct. No voltage means big air gap. Big variations mean run out so bearings or dinged polewheel.

Best to do this at the ECU plug as the most common failure is the loom then the sensor head. Probe from the back if you can, pushing pin in not out.

The low voltage is a BMW classic, the settings are so tight to get you into their coffee shops. You need 13V at the ECU so start cleaning up those connectors.
 
may or may not help you, but they fail in strange ways

On my K1300 the TC went mental and the bike couldn't be ridden unless you deactivated TC…. ABS and speedo worked perfectly
It went in under warranty and was diagnosed with front ABS sensor (note ZFE, DME and can bus is the same on the k1300 and the K25 R series bikes), they were proud of themselves and gave the bike back. But the fault was still there. They then spent 3 hours trying to understand why the diagnosis was wrong and how they hadn't fixed it. They and BMW technical were very confused. This is the same issue my mate had on his K1300 and BMW could fix his either - on and off to the dealer over 6 months -in the end he fixed himself, (I think here the broken wire got bad enough it started to impact the ABS so when he swapped the sensors at the ECU and found the fault moved, he replaced the rear sensor).

What exactly is going ? the gist was the TC is far more sensitive than the ABS and needs perfect signals both ends to do its job or throws an error, whereas the ABS is quite happy something reaches the ECU (hence speedo and ABS were never impacted - and YES I get that sounds mental). In the end they replaced the rear sensor as well and it was fixed.... but diagnostics still said it was the front. This is because the sensors check out as OK for ABS signals but really its beginning to fail as they break the wires and get intermittent issues (which maybe the ABS just thinks is differing levels of grip under braking - where front and rear may well be doing different things). The TC being much more sensitive, is not happy with the signals the TC system is receiving and so throws the first error on the list for traction control issues which happens to be the front sensor.
 
Fyi - the airgap between sensor and slotted ring should be between 0.2mm - 1.7mm.
 
A bit puzzling alright, since you fitted a new sensor.
Have you had the bike on the road since fitting new sensor? Or put it on main stand and spin front wheel?
What about wiring connection from new to old, any chance this is a problem? Could the pins in the connector be disengaged somehow?
Could the upstream wiring be a problem somewhere?

Here is info copied from HUBB posting:

Unplug the sensor and check resistance across the two wires. If its open circuit the internal coil is stuffed, you need a new sensor.

Set your meter to AC. Yes AC not DC. Spin the wheel. A good steady voltage is correct. No voltage means big air gap. Big variations mean run out so bearings or dinged polewheel.

Best to do this at the ECU plug as the most common failure is the loom then the sensor head. Probe from the back if you can, pushing pin in not out.

The low voltage is a BMW classic, the settings are so tight to get you into their coffee shops. You need 13V at the ECU so start cleaning up those connectors.

I’ve not had it on the road as I’ve bought it as a bit of a project without MOT etc so giving it a total going over before I take it for an MOT. I’ll try spinning the front wheel on a stand next see if that gives a signal.

I’ve had a good look at the wiring and can’t visibly see any issues. They seem to seat correctly but a large part of the wiring is covered with black tape from the factory and I am reluctant to start stripping it back and going down that rabbit hole...

I’ll give that suggestion a go and report back! Thanks!


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may or may not help you, but they fail in strange ways

On my K1300 the TC went mental and the bike couldn't be ridden unless you deactivated TC…. ABS and speedo worked perfectly
It went in under warranty and was diagnosed with front ABS sensor (note ZFE, DME and can bus is the same on the k1300 and the K25 R series bikes), they were proud of themselves and gave the bike back. But the fault was still there. They then spent 3 hours trying to understand why the diagnosis was wrong and how they hadn't fixed it. They and BMW technical were very confused. This is the same issue my mate had on his K1300 and BMW could fix his either - on and off to the dealer over 6 months -in the end he fixed himself, (I think here the broken wire got bad enough it started to impact the ABS so when he swapped the sensors at the ECU and found the fault moved, he replaced the rear sensor).

What exactly is going ? the gist was the TC is far more sensitive than the ABS and needs perfect signals both ends to do its job or throws an error, whereas the ABS is quite happy something reaches the ECU (hence speedo and ABS were never impacted - and YES I get that sounds mental). In the end they replaced the rear sensor as well and it was fixed.... but diagnostics still said it was the front. This is because the sensors check out as OK for ABS signals but really its beginning to fail as they break the wires and get intermittent issues (which maybe the ABS just thinks is differing levels of grip under braking - where front and rear may well be doing different things). The TC being much more sensitive, is not happy with the signals the TC system is receiving and so throws the first error on the list for traction control issues which happens to be the front sensor.

I’ll try plugging the old front sensor into the rear and see if it makes a difference...


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Some brake warning lights don't reset until you ride a few yards, and the low voltage would be a possible cause of some "fake alarms".... Although, the error msg on the GS911 seems very specific.
 


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