Changing the clutch slave cylinder help

Steve in Kent · Dec 8, 2019

In the near future I am going to do a bit of preemptive maintenance on my 2002 R1150GS.

Brake and clutch lines changed to stainless, and the clutch slave changed.

The bike has done 78k and I've been told that changing the slave is a good idea before it leaks and does a whole load of other damage.

I've ordered the slave, the gasket, and the rear seal, anything else I need?

Also, can anyone point me to a good process for changing the clutch slave?

I've found this so far

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=34&v=8TQ1nTleSYU&feature=emb_logo

mattgirv · Dec 10, 2019

It's a bit tight but you don't have to do any of that to get access to the clutch slave cylinder. I took off the rear wheel and shock. You might need a ball hex or something to get at the banjo connections at a very slight off-angle but otherwise a bit of sideways manoeuvring should allow you to pull the clutch slave cylinder out between the swingarm/bar.

Took me about an hour first crack - and that was including fiddling the new one back in to place and rebleeding the clutch.

Steptoe · Dec 10, 2019

mattgirv said:
It's a bit tight but you don't have to do any of that to get access to the clutch slave cylinder. I took off the rear wheel and shock. You might need a ball hex or something to get at the banjo connections at a very slight off-angle but otherwise a bit of sideways manoeuvring should allow you to pull the clutch slave cylinder out between the swingarm/bar.

Took me about an hour first crack - and that was including fiddling the new one back in to place and rebleeding the clutch.

If you undo the top nut on the lefthand fork leg, push it down and flip the clutch line “inside” the leg you get enough slack to be able to pull the slave cylinder out without having to struggle undoing the clutch line with it still tucked away behind the gearbox. Fairly simple job only requiring the removal of the rear wheel and rear shock. And easier if you bleed the new clutch slave cylinder before refitting it back onto the rear of the gearbox.

Steve in Kent · Dec 11, 2019

Thanks for the information guys,

I'll be changing the clutch line anyway, so I'll attach it to the slave first, assemble the slave, then attach it to the reservoir.

The slave has got an extension line back to the right hand side of the bike, (to which I've fitted a Stahlbus bleed valve), so I assume I'll be able to bleed it from there.

Steptoe · Dec 12, 2019

Steve in Kent said:
Thanks for the information guys,

I'll be changing the clutch line anyway, so I'll attach it to the slave first, assemble the slave, then attach it to the reservoir.

The slave has got an extension line back to the right hand side of the bike, (to which I've fitted a Stahlbus bleed valve), so I assume I'll be able to bleed it from there.

It’s far easier and more efficient to bleed the clutch before bolting the slave onto the gearbox. For best results push in the slave piston and clamp it before bleeding. No trapped air.

Slipperyeel · Dec 13, 2019

Steptoe said:
It’s far easier and more efficient to bleed the clutch before bolting the slave onto the gearbox. For best results push in the slave piston and clamp it before bleeding. No trapped air.

This is really good advice

I DIDN'T do this and while I got it all together, I can see it would have helped a LOT if I had!! Next time!

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

GS Addict · Dec 18, 2019

No need to replace the slave if it has not failed yet.
Pull it back and lube the little bearing by forcing in high temp wheel bearing grease.
Push it in with pencil (eraser end) until fresh grease comes out the perimeter of the little bearing.
Wipe off excess.
Do this every 80,000km and you will be trouble free.
My own GS has 365,000 on the original slave.
Don't forget to flush the fluid at the same time.

Roger 04 RT · Dec 18, 2019

Steptoe said:
It’s far easier and more efficient to bleed the clutch before bolting the slave onto the gearbox. For best results push in the slave piston and clamp it before bleeding. No trapped air.

You’ve got the best, truly practical advice for working on these bikes. Someone should search for all the tips and post them in one place.

Steptoe · Dec 18, 2019

Roger 04 RT said:
You’ve got the best, truly practical advice for working on these bikes. Someone should search for all the tips and post them in one place.

You mean somewhere like HERE

Changing the clutch slave cylinder help

Steve in Kent

Member

mattgirv

Member

Steptoe

What a waste.

Steve in Kent

Member

Steptoe

What a waste.

Slipperyeel

Well-known member

GS Addict

Registered user

Roger 04 RT

Registered user

Steptoe

What a waste.

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