3 years - 3 batterys

12.8 is good. Is that the voltage that it stays at when you disconnect your Optimiser?

If it drops below that (or below 12.6v to be more accurate) - then your battery is goosed and it is your Optimizer that is propping it up.

Thanks for the reply, after 5 mins off charge it jumps up to around 14 v and 0.22amps so I assume this means it is having to give it a boost, so this means the battery is shagged
Also when I turn the key it drops to 12.5v/12.4v and 0.81amps hence the not starting!

I do apologise to the OP for hi jacking the thread with my owns problems!
 
Thanks for the reply, after 5 mins off charge it jumps up to around 14 v and 0.22amps so I assume this means it is having to give it a boost, so this means the battery is shagged
Also when I turn the key it drops to 12.5v/12.4v and 0.81amps hence the not starting!

I do apologise to the OP for hi jacking the thread with my owns problems!

No - on the charger, you will get between 12.8 and 14.4v
At rest - you should get 12.6-12.8v
On starting - you will get a dip in voltage which will recover after a start.

No idea what you mean in bold
 
No - on the charger, you will get between 12.8 and 14.4v
At rest - you should get 12.6-12.8v
On starting - you will get a dip in voltage which will recover after a start.

No idea what you mean in bold

If I unplug for 5 mins and then plug the optimate back in it seems to start changing again
 
Thanks for the reply, after 5 mins off charge it jumps up to around 14 v and 0.22amps so I assume this means it is having to give it a boost, so this means the battery is shagged
Also when I turn the key it drops to 12.5v/12.4v and 0.81amps hence the not starting!

I do apologise to the OP for hi jacking the thread with my owns problems!

No problem - it is all interesting to me!!:thumb
 
Has the OP found the cause of the problem yet?

No I haven't is the answer. I took stuff off and disconnected stuff and cleaned everything and checked voltages - All OK. Put the stuff back on (not that there's much of it) and still all OK. So I'm now thinking - could it be a frayed wire somewhere that I have moved so it isn't draining to an earth, but it will come back eventually. The bike sits in my garage on an Optimate in the mean time.
 
No I haven't is the answer. I took stuff off and disconnected stuff and cleaned everything and checked voltages - All OK. Put the stuff back on (not that there's much of it) and still all OK. So I'm now thinking - could it be a frayed wire somewhere that I have moved so it isn't draining to an earth, but it will come back eventually. The bike sits in my garage on an Optimate in the mean time.

You need to check current, not just voltage.

With everything switched off, disconnect the earth cable and then bridge with a multimeter starting on the 10amp range. You MUST find out if any juice is draining from your battery when it's all switched off.
 
You need to check current, not just voltage.

With everything switched off, disconnect the earth cable and then bridge with a multimeter starting on the 10amp range. You MUST find out if any juice is draining from your battery when it's all switched off.

True BUT on a modern bike you will always read some current even with everything off - the control system has to be kept ‘alive’ to monitor possible inputs.
 
True BUT on a modern bike you will always read some current even with everything off - the control system has to be kept ‘alive’ to monitor possible inputs.

Yes, agreed - that that would only be a few milliamps. If there are three hundred milliamps (or more) going out of the door, I'd want to know what the culprit is.
 
Keep in mind you’re looking for a small excess drain, something on the order of 5 to 50 milliamperes. A drain of 50 mA will half deplete the battery in a week.
 


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