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Thread: 3 years - 3 batterys

  1. #33
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    I’m not seeing any benefit in disconnecting all additional consumers when he has a current-meter.

    Check for drain from the battery on the meter, and disconnect/reconnect each consumer in turn, while monitoring the current.
    If I am ever on life support - Unplug me......
    Then plug me back in..........

    See if that works .....

  2. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blackal View Post
    I’m not seeing any benefit in disconnecting all additional consumers when he has a current-meter.

    Check for drain from the battery on the meter, and disconnect/reconnect each consumer in turn, while monitoring the current.
    The reason is simple, to get back to a known stable state - the problem I had would not have been detected by measuring the current drain from the battery, because as soon as I made the break to put the meter inline it would have totally reset the bike’s power state and read zero current.

    Bike electronics have more than two power states these days (a bit like computers) and the current drawn depends upon which state it is in, my sat nav cradle was fooling the bike’s computer into going into a higher power state than it should have been after it was turned off.

    The surest way of finding the root cause is to go back to a known state (i.e. the factory BMW delivered state) and move forward from there one step at a time, otherwise one can get easily mislead by accessories confusing the bike’s computer.

  3. #35
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    I think I may have a similar problem, at what voltage should the battery stay at. My oxford optimiser is in ‘maintain’ mode holding it at 12.8v, is this right? It really struggles to start even when it’s still plugged in!

  4. #36
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    12.8 is good. Is that the voltage that it stays at when you disconnect your Optimiser?

    If it drops below that (or below 12.6v to be more accurate) - then your battery is goosed and it is your Optimizer that is propping it up.
    If I am ever on life support - Unplug me......
    Then plug me back in..........

    See if that works .....

  5. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Engineer View Post
    The reason is simple, to get back to a known stable state - the problem I had would not have been detected by measuring the current drain from the battery, because as soon as I made the break to put the meter inline it would have totally reset the bike’s power state and read zero current.

    Bike electronics have more than two power states these days (a bit like computers) and the current drawn depends upon which state it is in, my sat nav cradle was fooling the bike’s computer into going into a higher power state than it should have been after it was turned off.

    The surest way of finding the root cause is to go back to a known state (i.e. the factory BMW delivered state) and move forward from there one step at a time, otherwise one can get easily mislead by accessories confusing the bike’s computer.
    Disconnect the last addition (of say 4 items) - which might just be the last stable state - you have a pretty good chance of nailing it there and then. Stick a current meter on it when shut down, to check. There is a certain complexity where you don’t rip out everything, but just go back to before your last alteration.
    If I am ever on life support - Unplug me......
    Then plug me back in..........

    See if that works .....

  6. #38
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    Is now a good time to.say that the battery on my 13 12RT is now six years old and going strong?



    TOUCH WOOD!
    Purveyor of the finest dreary verbal diahrrea.(sic)

  7. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Posh Pete View Post
    Is now a good time to.say that the battery on my 13 12RT is now six years old and going strong?

    TOUCH WOOD!
    My 2-yr old battery was going strong................. until it wasn’t. No warning, no gradual decrease in capacity........

    Go on - spend some of that pension!
    If I am ever on life support - Unplug me......
    Then plug me back in..........

    See if that works .....

  8. #40
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    Spend? Spend?

    Do you think I'm a spendthrift Yorkshireman, laddie?
    Purveyor of the finest dreary verbal diahrrea.(sic)

  9. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blackal View Post
    12.8 is good. Is that the voltage that it stays at when you disconnect your Optimiser?

    If it drops below that (or below 12.6v to be more accurate) - then your battery is goosed and it is your Optimizer that is propping it up.
    Thanks for the reply, after 5 mins off charge it jumps up to around 14 v and 0.22amps so I assume this means it is having to give it a boost, so this means the battery is shagged
    Also when I turn the key it drops to 12.5v/12.4v and 0.81amps hence the not starting!

    I do apologise to the OP for hi jacking the thread with my owns problems!

  10. #42
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    My thoughts are that to damaged a battery you need to overcharge and cook it

  11. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by GS-ROB View Post
    Thanks for the reply, after 5 mins off charge it jumps up to around 14 v and 0.22amps so I assume this means it is having to give it a boost, so this means the battery is shagged
    Also when I turn the key it drops to 12.5v/12.4v and 0.81amps hence the not starting!

    I do apologise to the OP for hi jacking the thread with my owns problems!
    No - on the charger, you will get between 12.8 and 14.4v
    At rest - you should get 12.6-12.8v
    On starting - you will get a dip in voltage which will recover after a start.

    No idea what you mean in bold
    If I am ever on life support - Unplug me......
    Then plug me back in..........

    See if that works .....

  12. #44
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    I think the bike's cooking it

  13. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blackal View Post
    No - on the charger, you will get between 12.8 and 14.4v
    At rest - you should get 12.6-12.8v
    On starting - you will get a dip in voltage which will recover after a start.

    No idea what you mean in bold
    If I unplug for 5 mins and then plug the optimate back in it seems to start changing again

  14. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveC10 View Post
    I think the bike's cooking it
    So it’s the bike not the battery? Could it be the battery optimiser?

  15. #47
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    Has the OP found the cause of the problem yet?

  16. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by GS-ROB View Post
    Thanks for the reply, after 5 mins off charge it jumps up to around 14 v and 0.22amps so I assume this means it is having to give it a boost, so this means the battery is shagged
    Also when I turn the key it drops to 12.5v/12.4v and 0.81amps hence the not starting!

    I do apologise to the OP for hi jacking the thread with my owns problems!
    No problem - it is all interesting to me!!

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