Rear anchor comes and goes

Which is annoying. Only ever disappears when riding in a spirited fashion, (when its most feckin needed). Disc gets hot and brakes well dont, all of a sudden like. Bikes a 96 r1100gs abs model (which having no experience of i suspect may be to blame). Pads wear even, gets regular servicing by me, new fluid and pads made no difference.
Any light to be shed much appreciated.

Is the caliper sliding freely on the pins? Does the ABS function & was it bled correctly - I'm no expert on this model, but the system is 24 years old after all.

Otherwise, if it's not air in the lines/ABS unit, it seems the pads are somehow getting knocked back. Any play in the hub bearings?

squibb34 said:

Is the caliper sliding freely on the pins? Does the ABS function & was it bled correctly - I'm no expert on this model, but the system is 24 years old after all.

Otherwise, if it's not air in the lines/ABS unit, it seems the pads are somehow getting knocked back. Any play in the hub bearings?

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Cheers for the reply. Caliper slides on pins fine, its been apart lots to try and remedey. Good shout on the bearings though again been there and checked. Pads never visibly knocked back and wheel always spins free too. Bleed properly you say. Hmmm, having zero experience of abs systems i couldn't say for sure. Pipes seem to bugger off under the tank! Ive bleed it till the new fluid comes through and it feels good, just always does the same again when cracking on.
Checked the front hose common fault spot today and that looks fine, would be alarming to loose bith brakes haha.
Tempting to bin the abs and run straight lines from master cylinders to calipers, not a fan of added complexity me.

Sounds like you need to bleed the ABS unit. The best I could find for the moment ............... https://advrider.com/f/threads/r1100gs-abs-bleeding.506531/

Then check the system actually works on the road, by slamming the brakes on & inducing anti-lock. Best to try to keep the system if at all possible, given modern riding conditions, IMHO. Saves advising insurers too.

Do a search on Youtube for bleeding the ABS brakes you should be able to suss out how its done by watching a few tutorials.

If your spirited riding brings you to the Peak District message me and if you want I’ll bleed the system for you.

Hope you get sorted


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Have still got original hoses?

If so, that could be your problem.

Ian

Many thanks all. I'll bleed the abs first as have some fluid kicking about and if that sorts it. Hoses are oe as far as i can make out, look ok though have known them to break down 8nside before. Would love to ride it to the Peaks but my left hands not up for clutch duties due to a skill saw mishap. Figure ill one hand spanner it in my down time : )

Smokeybus said:

as have some fluid kicking about

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I hope that was in a sealed container, not an opened bottle that you had kicking out since you last used it. Brake fluid shouldn't be used if it's open for more than a couple of days. It absorbs water from the air, which leads to a reduction in braking performance.

Smokeybus said:

Many thanks all. I'll bleed the abs first as have some fluid kicking about and if that sorts it. Hoses are oe as far as i can make out, look ok though have known them to break down 8nside before. Would love to ride it to the Peaks but my left hands not up for clutch duties due to a skill saw mishap. Figure ill one hand spanner it in my down time : )

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OMG, still on OE hoses on a 96 model??

Absobloodylutely fit new braided hoses before you even think of riding it. They will be completely shot internally. I had to do mine on my 2000 model 1150 about 4years back when i couldn’t get them to bleed. Have also done my 2000 model 850 since, just because they were so old.
Tbh, I would say that ANY 1100, 1150 or 850 model should by now be on new braided hoses.

So far, everyone is suggesting without looking at the symptoms.

The symptoms are of a brake brake boiling the fluid in normal use.
Suggest;
Go for a run. Do not use the brakes at all. Come to a halt still without using brakes.
Touch the rear disk. If it is hot, you are starting to identify the cause of your problems.

This may be caused by several things, the most common being no clearance on the master cylinder linkage. Check is there a little free play before footbrake pushes master cylinder rod.

When you ride home from this stop, use rear brake hard. Ride on a few metres, stop & put bike on main stand. Check is the rear wheel free. If not, back to linkage problem (probably).

Others have touched on possible slave cylinder sticking, so I will not raise that again.
Regards Myke

I always keep my brake fluid in a bucket in the garden so the air bubbles can escape

Lines look oe, may well defo should of been replaced over the years though bikes had a few owners one of which may have replaced with standard? I agree on braided and they will come in time. I would like to make a final decision on abs stay or go first and the probably wait till I can work again as no funds at the mo being self employed.

Myke Rocks said:

The symptoms are of a brake brake boiling the fluid in normal use.
Suggest;
Go for a run. Do not use the brakes at all. Come to a halt still without using brakes.
Touch the rear disk. If it is hot, you are starting to identify the cause of your problems.

This may be caused by several things, the most common being no clearance on the master cylinder linkage. Check is there a little free play before footbrake pushes master cylinder rod.

When you ride home from this stop, use rear brake hard. Ride on a few metres, stop & put bike on main stand. Check is the rear wheel free. If not, back to linkage problem (probably).

Others have touched on possible slave cylinder sticking, so I will not raise that again.
Regards Myke

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All good shouts Myke. I should of added mire info in the first post though was tricky on my phone. That's my excuse for being lazy anyway haha. The first time this issue reared it's ugly head was in the Italian Alps on a monster down hill run. We had no fluid with us and none of us in possession of any type of roadside recovery as ever. I bleed it through as much as the reseviour would safely allow and it came back, then went on the next hill, and the next, and the next.... Having some degree of spannering know how I covered the points above on the ride to the next campsite set up tent then bought brake fluid whilst out on the evening beer run (other two bikes ktm with inferior beer carrying capacity) Bleed again till new fluid was flowing though not bled abs as link above because A. I didnt know and B. I refused to understand. Rode all the way home with it coming and going rebleed again once back and have been riding it ever since with it only going when needed the most. Glad I joinned here and asked, great info peoples. Ta very much.

P.s Apologies for any typos, Lacking a few fingers doesnt help plus am a bit retarded anyway

I'm riding 2 up and fully loaded for long term camping etc and this has happened a few times over the past few months. Only really happens on long downhills on gravel roads where I'm not keen on using the front brake so rely more on the rear. Foot pedal goes completely soft and has no braking at all. Jumping off to take a look and the caliper and disk will sizzle any water sprayed on it, boiling hot. Put it down to simple overheating. I'm also on stock lines (2001) which wont help the matter. But they seem fine internally with no bits coming out during bleeding. (fingers crossed as i wont be getting any new ones here in Peru).

I have heard of another biker (new africa twin) fitting ceramic plates in between his pads and the calipers which has helped him in the same situation, but not sure if these are available for the 1150, never checked.

You need new hoses pronto..mine was doing that until one day the brake was dragging on the looked fine but when I pushed the rear pedal down there was slight bulging ..managed to ride home after pushing n prising the pads in a bit took off rear hose and no fluid !! wtf turned out it was breaking up internally and was acting like a one way valve ,when I bent the hose fluid started coming out..it was done ,,you dont want to piss about with brakes.. mibe one day itll lock up @ 70 mph n throw you up the road ,for the sake of £30 for a new hose ..get it done n sharpish espcially wi the amount o idiots on the roads