M 1300 GS

I carry occasional pillion and use a Givi Trekker top box so the grab rails & rack are a slight bit of concession to function over form!! At least they have been colour matched.

I can live with that when compared to the original mismatched colours on the rear subframe, rocker covers, rear footrest hangers, rear under seat frame cover, pillion grab handles, side panels on front of fairing, bash plate, awful white handguards and gold spoked wheels. Original bike looked like one made from a parts bin at a breakers yard. BMW designers must be colour blind.
 
r1happy said:
I could not be arsed waiting for BMW so went for the 17” front wheel option myself on my 1250 Rallye, together with a slightly wider rear wheel for sports rubber front & back. To address the 1” drop at the front I bought a basic and fitted Ohlins TTX shocks. My dealer used the front preload to adjust the ride height. Topped it off with full decat exhaust, Hilltop remap, and sorting the mismatched panels and frame colours so now has looks to match.

Bike is now exactly what I wanted and a keeper. That is a comfortable bike with Telelever suspension, sports tyres on 17” wheels, superb fuelling and more bhp at the back wheel than one of the early R1’s I had. Tank range is over 250 miles on gentle throttle but still near 200 ridden hard Handling is superb and I cannot stop smiling.
Click to expand...
Looks nice , bit confused about the preload as this would only stiffen the front not lift it as the rod is the same length and the spring is set , ie you can’t make it longer only stiffer , did you mean you had the shock made longer and a longer spring so all matches , also the additional height will also be restricted by the top of the fork sliders again as these are designed for the 19” wheel etc , only asking tho as that’s what I always believed.
The offset of the rear has always worried me as well , when we built street fighters years ago the main thing was to get the front and rear in line , as we found that if we didn’t the bike , when pushed seemed to track strangely on the corners , usual remedy was to machine off and add on the swing arm as to keep in line , chain drive mind as you could adjust the primary drive as well , not so easy on a shaft
 
Checking on my last 2 fast ride outs through the BMW Connected app and telemetry, approx 95% of my riding that was making progress was between 3-5.5k rpm. The 1250 has great torque. If you want more top end speed, then swap the final gear / shaft for that of the RS which is approximately 15% longer geared.
 
Spareparts said:
Checking on my last 2 fast ride outs through the BMW Connected app and telemetry, approx 95% of my riding that was making progress was between 3-5.5k rpm. The 1250 has great torque. If you want more top end speed, then swap the final gear / shaft for that of the RS which is approximately 15% longer geared.
Click to expand...

It’s not top speed you need as the current is fine , more bhp will equate to more torque , and that’s the one . It has great torque but more would be nice
 
stick said:
Looks nice , bit confused about the preload as this would only stiffen the front not lift it as the rod is the same length and the spring is set , ie you can’t make it longer only stiffer , did you mean you had the shock made longer and a longer spring so all matches , also the additional height will also be restricted by the top of the fork sliders again as these are designed for the 19” wheel etc , only asking tho as that’s what I always believed.
The offset of the rear has always worried me as well , when we built street fighters years ago the main thing was to get the front and rear in line , as we found that if we didn’t the bike , when pushed seemed to track strangely on the corners , usual remedy was to machine off and add on the swing arm as to keep in line , chain drive mind as you could adjust the primary drive as well , not so easy on a shaft
Click to expand...

I am now confused as increasing Preload is not for stiffening the suspension, it alters the stance of the bike. For example it’s how you raise the rear of the bike in order to load the front and quicken the steering. Do an internet search and see. Below is an example. As the pictures show my ride height is exactly the same as the standard Rallye with 19” front wheel.

Teach Me Suspension (Part 3): Motorcycle Suspension Preload
https://lifeatlean.com › teach-me-suspension-everything-preload
Preload Affects Geometry Conversely, removing preload lowers it. For that reason it's important to realise that your preload changes directly affect geometry. Winding on 10mm of preload to our bike's 1kg/mm spring at the front, for example, would raise the front end by 10mm.
 
stick said:
It’s not top speed you need as the current is fine , more bhp will equate to more torque , and that’s the one . It has great torque but more would be nice
Click to expand...

The bike already wheelies off 3rd and 4th gear. Why would you need/want more torque where the electronics will just reign in/limit output?

Personally, I want a 7th gear for higher speed more relaxed cruising. Do not change the 1-6 gear ratios however as the short gearing always = fun.
 
r1happy said:
I am now confused as increasing Preload is not for stiffening the suspension, it alters the stance of the bike. For example it’s how you raise the rear of the bike in order to load the front and quicken the steering. Do an internet search and see. Below is an example. As the pictures show my ride height is exactly the same as the standard Rallye with 19” front wheel.

Teach Me Suspension (Part 3): Motorcycle Suspension Preload
https://lifeatlean.com › teach-me-suspension-everything-preload
Preload Affects Geometry Conversely, removing preload lowers it. For that reason it's important to realise that your preload changes directly affect geometry. Winding on 10mm of preload to our bike's 1kg/mm spring at the front, for example, would raise the front end by 10mm.
Click to expand...

Preload is for setting the correct sag, you are unlikely to have the correct sag if you have upped the preload to gain an inch in ride height. you may be near the top of the stroke of the shock. It would be better to gain 1/2" of ride height on the front and drop the rear 1/2" and add a click or two of low speed compression to help compensate.
To be honest, the modern 19" tyre compounds are plenty sticky enough for a GS, sports rubber will wear out quicky with no real benifit unless you live right on the edge of the tyre all the time, in the UK there is no chance of this.
 
Spareparts said:
The bike already wheelies off 3rd and 4th gear. Why would you need/want more torque where the electronics will just reign in/limit output?

Personally, I want a 7th gear for higher speed more relaxed cruising. Do not change the 1-6 gear ratios however as the short gearing always = fun.
Click to expand...

Run mainly with the TC off as its more fun and I have throttle control , try it..
 
CPJS said:
Preload is for setting the correct sag, you are unlikely to have the correct sag if you have upped the preload to gain an inch in ride height. you may be near the top of the stroke of the shock. It would be better to gain 1/2" of ride height on the front and drop the rear 1/2" and add a click or two of low speed compression to help compensate.
To be honest, the modern 19" tyre compounds are plenty sticky enough for a GS, sports rubber will wear out quicky with no real benifit unless you live right on the edge of the tyre all the time, in the UK there is no chance of this.
Click to expand...

Thanks , saved me a long reply .. you are correct Sir :thumb:thumb
 
r1happy said:
I am now confused as increasing Preload is not for stiffening the suspension, it alters the stance of the bike. For example it’s how you raise the rear of the bike in order to load the front and quicken the steering. Do an internet search and see. Below is an example. As the pictures show my ride height is exactly the same as the standard Rallye with 19” front wheel.

Teach Me Suspension (Part 3): Motorcycle Suspension Preload
https://lifeatlean.com › teach-me-suspension-everything-preload
Preload Affects Geometry Conversely, removing preload lowers it. For that reason it's important to realise that your preload changes directly affect geometry. Winding on 10mm of preload to our bike's 1kg/mm spring at the front, for example, would raise the front end by 10mm.
Click to expand...

The internet is an awful leader of mistakes ...The clue is PRELOAD Also your link is for a conventional fork system , not the BMW front end as this is the same in theory to the rear , its a shock , not a fork.
 
stick said:
Run mainly with the TC off as its more fun and I have throttle control , try it..
Click to expand...

So by using throttle control, you aren’t at WOT, therefore you aren’t developing full power...
 
Spareparts said:
So by using throttle control, you aren’t at WOT, therefore you aren’t developing full power...
Click to expand...
The TC controls the amount of power to the rear , too much throttle and it will cut power or meter it in , without the TC on ,with control, you can put more or the same power down as you have the control , like I said it’s about your control and flow with the bike .
Most bikes on the past have not had this , great feature but not an essential to get the most out of your bike tho .Some say that TC is for heavy handed uncontrolled lol
I ran a test when in Spain , same road , same day .
TC on great , easy and predicable , second run , off , faster , more aggressive , and fun , either way fine but off allows you to play .plus the fact when the roads are hot the bloody lights on all the time flashing at you , bloody annoying
 
If the alleged M1300GS is made with say 180 bhp, 17 inch wheels with sports tyres and a 160mph top speed some dozy *&%$ will pop up a few months later with tales of dare and do on their awesome new steed and then demand 200 bhp with supercharging or turbocharging ,racing slicks and then describe it as the perfect adventure bike .


In 2003 my 1150gs (with gsa tank and 85bhp) would cover the same miles in a day touring as my 2017 r1200gsa does today (and the same as a r1250gsa will do )on public roads
 
Be careful not to live too much in the past and wet eyed thoughts , things move on .
Tour on a 1150 or a 1250 , no contest , its similar to taking an old car , or a new one , the new one is just better for the new demands required by the development of machines and peoples perceptions of a better time.
My old Maico was great , but take away the mist of old time , my new 250 outclasses it easily and always will.
As for you exaggeration of 180 bhp , come on , 150 is enough but would be nice for some .
You may cover the same mileage on your 2003 but is it as much fun , for a lot of folks no as it misses the mark now. In my opinion of course , we all have our own ways.
 
stick said:
The TC controls the amount of power to the rear , too much throttle and it will cut power or meter it in , without the TC on ,with control, you can put more or the same power down as you have the control , like I said it’s about your control and flow with the bike .
Most bikes on the past have not had this , great feature but not an essential to get the most out of your bike tho .Some say that TC is for heavy handed uncontrolled lol
I ran a test when in Spain , same road , same day .
TC on great , easy and predicable , second run , off , faster , more aggressive , and fun , either way fine but off allows you to play .plus the fact when the roads are hot the bloody lights on all the time flashing at you , bloody annoying
Click to expand...

Exactly my point... Hand throttle modulation works just as TC. So why the need for more torque and power... the 1250 produces plenty. Riders on the even a KTM1290... still haven’t found one of them who can keep up with a well ridden GS on tarmac unless going for high speed powering above 100mph when short gearing causes the 1250GS to run out of revs/speed. It needs a taller 7th gear.
 
Spareparts said:
Exactly my point... Hand throttle modulation works just as TC. So why the need for more torque and power... the 1250 produces plenty. Riders on the even a KTM1290... still haven’t found one of them who can keep up with a well ridden GS on tarmac unless going for high speed powering above 100mph when short gearing causes the 1250GS to run out of revs/speed. It needs a taller 7th gear.
Click to expand...

We need both … agree with the KTM bit as well , but its the chassis that lets down the KTM as its not as stable as the gs thro the corners. A great bike tho.
 
Spareparts said:
It needs a taller 7th gear.
Click to expand...
An extra gear for motorway milage and better heated grips at a minimum, then maybe a heated seat and some customisation of the TFT would be great.
 
Get some heated clothing, it's the dogs, true luxury in winter. super warm knees …… ahhhh!
 
r1happt;I like your bike ! Get the Ilmberger Carbon front fender - they make 2 versions - one for the stock GS front wheel and another one for a 17 inch wheel.
I still want a 17 inch wheel kit from the factory though because even with the stock 19 inch wheel and with he sports-suspension that comes on the ADV or optional on the GS-HP the bike gets frisky going 125 plus with bags and topcase.
And yes 1300-1400 cc would be enough with 150nm torque at 6000 rpm and 150/160 hp at 8500 rpm max with 9000 rpm redline.
That would be about the perfect package for fast street riding - monster torque and S1000XR/1290 Superduke GT power levels with fork beating Telelever and shaft drive...:thumby:
Look at the Porsche 911 GT3 engine that is basically 3 times the BMW shiftcam engine with 1333 cc;
As a BMW twin it would make 175 hp and 112 lb-ft of torque...reliably at 8500 rpm with a 9000 rpm redline !
I hope it comes soon...:thumb2
Nobody needs a 200 hp Multistrada V-4 coming next year which is getting borderline ridiculous which will be definitely faster sunday mornings at 6:30 on the Autobahn...if you can afford the gas...:eek:
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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