RallyRaid Africa Twin Wheel set

I hope they have improved the quality. that rally bike I had had a set on it and the anodising on the hubs was terrible plus the spokes had badly worn the insides of the front brake calliper . I hope its been sorted as its not what you'd expect . fingers crossed :p
 
I hope they have improved the quality. that rally bike I had had a set on it and the anodising on the hubs was terrible plus the spokes had badly worn the insides of the front brake calliper . I hope its been sorted as its not what you'd expect . fingers crossed :p

That's interesting.... they told me they didn't anodise the rims anymore because of inconsistent results. They only powdercoat them now.

Spoke clearance is a basic fundamental design requirement. I wonder if your wheels had been damaged?
 
How can one tell, if you have ?

The rim will have one (or two) extra holes with a threaded lock stem sticking out. It'd look just like an extra tyre valve. On the inside of the tyre is a device that clamps it to the rim. This prevents the tyre from slipping (under heavy wheelspin, traction or braking), and ripping the tube inside.

Have you never heard of (or used) a rim lock?
 
That's interesting.... they told me they didn't anodise the rims anymore because of inconsistent results. They only powdercoat them now.

Spoke clearance is a basic fundamental design requirement. I wonder if your wheels had been damaged?

...... just to add to that, I remember your 'Rally' bike had been given to a Dakar rider for a competition thousands of miles away. He had to ride it there, and back again without support.

I wonder if the front wheel was damaged during competition and he just continued to ride it regardless, because of his circumstances. Hence the damage to the caliper?

Either way, noted. Thanks for the info :thumb2
 
So why not go tubeless and carry a tube in case of a dent?

Would rather be taking the wheel and tyre off just for this rare situation as opposed to for every puncture.

Just saying... ;)

Oh, and there's another reason......

Tubeless tyres can be much stiffer than tubed tyres. They can be a complete bastard to break the seat seal, get on and off the rim, and can take stupid high pressures to reseat on the rim.

Also you have to remove the sealed valve to allow fitment of a tubed valve stem as a temporary replacement.

All not ideal for a trailside fix with basic tools.
 
The rim will have one (or two) extra holes with a threaded lock stem sticking out. It'd look just like an extra tyre valve. On the inside of the tyre is a device that clamps it to the rim. This prevents the tyre from slipping (under heavy wheelspin, traction or braking), and ripping the tube inside.

Have you never heard of (or used) a rim lock?

Thanks for the info and I will look into it more - I like the looking cool aspect

My Trials Bikes - a Honda and a Yamaha run tubeless rims, which allow me to run pressures as low as 2 psi - but they only weigh 75kg
 
Thanks for the info and I will look into it more - I like the looking cool aspect

My Trials Bikes - a Honda and a Yamaha run tubeless rims, which allow me to run pressures as low as 2 psi - but they only weigh 75kg

I've had conflicting advice (yet again), this time about rim locks.

Some people have said. You don't need to air down tyres on such a heavy bike like the Africa Twin when riding off-road. If you do, all you risk is pinch flats and dented rims.... because of the weight. Therefore if you don't air down your tyres and stay at road pressures you don't need rim locks.

However....

When I went to the Sweet Lamb Adventure Bike Academy for training. The first thing Molly did was air down my tyres !! with the education that it was needed for better grip and control off-road. He also unbolted my tube stems from the rim, with the education to me that they needed to move, or they'll get ripped out.

Now I'm not questioning his judgement, as he's supposed to be the best.

So I started to look for Rim Locks on the front and rear wheels on the Africa Twin. Fronts are ok.... but rear OEM wheels are too wide and nobody does rim locks to fit them.

Hence me being interested in the RallyRaid wheel set. The rims are both suitable for rim locks.

Even if I never air down the tyres too far, the rim locks will also help me get back to a road and recovered if I do have a complete irreparable flat tyre at any point....

So that's why I'm interested in them.
 
The rim will have one (or two) extra holes with a threaded lock stem sticking out. It'd look just like an extra tyre valve. On the inside of the tyre is a device that clamps it to the rim. This prevents the tyre from slipping (under heavy wheelspin, traction or braking), and ripping the tube inside.

Have you never heard of (or used) a rim lock?

It's more to prevent the tyre turning which in turn rips the valve stem out of the tube so another tip which helps is don't tighten the valve nut against the rim, you can even leave it off and keep an eye that your valve stem stays 90deg to the rim.
I've also seen many damaged rim locks ruin a tube and even a moose.
Some of my bikes have had 2 rim locks fitted to the rear and remember you can consider balancing the wheels after fitting one.
 
Two in the back, one in the front and put spacers on them so the nut's near the end not an inch and half down the muddy thread.
 
Two in the back, one in the front and put spacers on them so the nut's near the end not an inch and half down the muddy thread.

That's a good idea
 
Any half decent rim lock should have a long nut that covers the thread anyway, also with a curved spacer that fits against the rim otherwise a nut will chew into the soft alloy.
 

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Hmmmm, I'll have a think about these Rim Locks. Put it on hold until I actually see a need for them
 

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That's interesting.... they told me they didn't anodise the rims anymore because of inconsistent results. They only powdercoat them now.

Spoke clearance is a basic fundamental design requirement. I wonder if your wheels had been damaged?

it was the hubs where the anodising was poor not the rims. I don't think so I checked them for running true and they were fine. it was a test bike so im guessing its would have been resolved by now.
 
it was the hubs where the anodising was poor not the rims. I don't think so I checked them for running true and they were fine. it was a test bike so im guessing its would have been resolved by now.

Well, you'd like to think so..... but.....

I'll pay attention to clearances and finish. Again, thanks for the info :thumb2
 
it was the hubs where the anodising was poor not the rims. I don't think so I checked them for running true and they were fine. it was a test bike so im guessing its would have been resolved by now.

Did you get any picture evidence?
 
Did you get any picture evidence?

funnily enough ive just been looking though old pictures but there's none of it showing the rubbing. it was the reason I sold it with those wheels on it and kept the standard ones.sorry this is all I got
 

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it was the hubs where the anodising was poor not the rims. I don't think so I checked them for running true and they were fine. it was a test bike so im guessing its would have been resolved by now.

On the rear wheel picture, I wonder why they've put the axle in the wrong way around?
 


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