Refurbing the GS

Try Moorespeed/Richie Moore he did a repair for me , cut off the damaged stub and welded in a new one. A very well done job by a true engineer.
 
Try Moorespeed/Richie Moore he did a repair for me , cut off the damaged stub and welded in a new one. A very well done job by a true engineer.

There is no need to cut off the stub that's an expensive way to do an easy repair!

I got both heads on my R80 mono done many years ago with the brass sleeve for a £120

I still see that bike and the Exh threads unscrew anytime I do anything for Davy

See this one https://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/85047-Exhaust-Thread-Repair
 
They’re out. Pete 1 BMW design engineers 0. If they’d given the rubber mount a a couple more mm height of metal in the base, I could’ve got a pair of moles on them. Instead, I had to tear off the rubber, hacksaw a slot and chisel them round until they were sufficiently proud to get the moles on them! Hey ho.
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Quick question for them as knows: do I replace the head races now or leave it until the frame has been powder coated? It's probably 6 and half a dozen, but you never know ...
 
They’re out. Pete 1 BMW design engineers 0. If they’d given the rubber mount a a couple more mm height of metal in the base, I could’ve got a pair of moles on them. Instead, I had to tear off the rubber, hacksaw a slot and chisel them round until they were sufficiently proud to get the moles on them! Hey ho.
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Quick question for them as knows: do I replace the head races now or leave it until the frame has been powder coated? It's probably 6 and half a dozen, but you never know ...

Leave till after BUT make yourself up Plywood discs to completely fill that hole top and bottom!

where the bearing outer sits or ask whoever is doing the powder coating to make sure its is blanked off Also Your swingarm pin thread and any threaded insert in the frame where a bolt will screw in

or you are going to have to grind it all off to get the outer bearing cases in there

or rethread every single threaded bit

paint 1 Plastic coating ZEEEEROH
 
Leave till after BUT make yourself up Plywood discs to completely fill that hole top and bottom!

where the bearing outer sits or ask whoever is doing the powder coating to make sure its is blanked off Also Your swingarm pin thread and any threaded insert in the frame where a bolt will screw in

or you are going to have to grind it all off to get the outer bearing cases in there

or rethread every single threaded bit

paint 1 Plastic coating ZEEEEROH

I’m pretty sure the plastic coating bods I’m using will do all that Jay. I popped in and asked them before starting the work. They’ve a good rep locally and made a good job of the rear sub frame I gave them a couple of years ago. My question about the races was really re any possible damage done to the coating after it’s done. Anyway, I’ll have another chat with them before handing over the bits. Cheers :beerjug:


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Peter,

Do you go to Pentland Powdercoating at Lasswade ? I find Chloe Renwick very helpful ?

Bob.
 
My question about the races was really re any possible damage done to the coating after it’s done.

The number of people who "thought" that and then you see them looking for taps to rethread those bits

The bearing seat and tube needs to remain free from plastic coating or you will never get the bearing in and if you do it will all pack up under the bearing cup and it will never get down to its proper seat

They are a tight fit and unless you have the proper tools a total ballix to get them out

My favoured method is a spin of MIG around the casing and it falls out when it cools

Outers in a plastic bag in freezer and carried to garage in a towel to keep temps lower and tap them into place with my drift
 
The number of people who "thought" that and then you see them looking for taps to rethread those bits

The bearing seat and tube needs to remain free from plastic coating or you will never get the bearing in and if you do it will all pack up under the bearing cup and it will never get down to its proper seat

They are a tight fit and unless you have the proper tools a total ballix to get them out

My favoured method is a spin of MIG around the casing and it falls out when it cools

Outers in a plastic bag in freezer and carried to garage in a towel to keep temps lower and tap them into place with my drift

Thanks Jay. I really appreciate your comments and help. :beerjug:

Peter,

Do you go to Pentland Powdercoating at Lasswade ? I find Chloe Renwick very helpful ?

Bob.

They did the rear sub frame for me a couple of years ago and did a good job, Bob. I was there this morning, dropping the stuff off. I managed to have a chat with the lad who actually does the work on bike frames and took him through the bits of particular concern. As they say, "The die is cast!" :eek:
 
Small jobs yesterday and today. The timing case was painted yesterday. Today, I got the sander and the wet and dry out. Smoothrite , in case anyone is wondering.
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Now then. What's in here?

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Done in only a couple of days and every thread had been protected. Even the plastic bungs for the RS/RT fairing mounts had been removed and returned to me in a placcy bag. Excellent quality and service from Pentland Powder Coating. Highly recommended.

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While I'm giving out plaudits, a big :thumb2 for Chris Shaw of Shaw Stainless. He activated part of his website so I could place an order for stuff which had temporarily been removed pending re-stocking. He'll send it on at no extra cost when it comes in. Meanwhile, the SS push rod tubes are in the post.

Speaking of said tubes, I suggest anyone interested in fitting them has a look at Chris's site and does a wee price comparison with other providers. :augie
 
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A wee bit of elbow grease and the collector box looks a bit better. No holes yet. It’ll be a good fall back for whatever other option I decide on.
 
Right! The engine is back cw new friction plate in the clutch and shiny new ss push rod tunnels. :cool

Today I started reassembly, beginning with the wiring harness. I suspended the headlight nacelle from a beam and then threaded the various chunks of harness back under the steering head, using the pics I’d taken as a guide. So far, so good although I expect a bit of scraping at the plastic coat will be needed in a couple of places to ensure decent earths.
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Next step will be to mount the engine. However, I just realised that the studs are different! And with one spacer slightly fatter than the other three. :eek:

Anyone know which way round they go?
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