Peter, choke splitter should be on the nearside. At least it is on my Paralever.
Refurbing the GS
- Thread starter Posh Pete
- Start date
doesn;t really matter to be honest Peter
As long as the choke operation is smooth and releases okay
Better put the Coil wire on the coil
That's K100 Type Coil
As long as the choke operation is smooth and releases okay
Better put the Coil wire on the coil
That's K100 Type Coil
doesn;t really matter to be honest Peter
As long as the choke operation is smooth and releases okay
Better put the Coil wire on the coil
That's K100 Type Coil
Ha! Further proof that the bike has a chequered past, I think! Yes, the coil will be connected and the choke rerouted. The cable is routed through the near side frame gusset (I did make a note of that) so KM's suggestion makes sense. Then it's a tidy up of the wiring and having to with the zip ties, finish the front end and decision time re Y pieces.
I got a quote from a well rated bike paint specialist to do the front headlight surround and bikini fairing in white and blue - £240
Thanks again for all the advice Jay and others.
Ha! Further proof that the bike has a chequered past, I think! Yes, the coil will be connected and the choke rerouted. The cable is routed through the near side frame gusset (I did make a note of that) so KM's suggestion makes sense. Then it's a tidy up of the wiring and having to with the zip ties, finish the front end and decision time re Y pieces.
I got a quote from a well rated bike paint specialist to do the front headlight surround and bikini fairing in white and blue - £240
Thanks again for all the advice Jay and others.
Yeah its a common and effective cheaper alternative to a new coil, "Actually" I may be guilty of that one to try and save some Dave some money
As He had already spuffed 1800 to 2000 Euro with an Airhead Expert down South and there were many unresolved issues still there as you saw from the photos Peter
Feck Me Pink! you can buy a New white Bezel for that price!! Try a car body shop they will have the plastic primers needed and of course cough cough (Nudge Nudge Simple Cash job!)
Very Welcome Peter Now I should get off my Ass and get on with some of that long standing Airhead building schtuff I have to do here
Nearly there folks. Today, I filled the oil and wanted to push it through the new filter etc via the starter with plugs out but in the leads and earthed of course. Half a second of engagement as the solenoid kicked in then everything went dead. No lights at the display. Nowt. The battery is showing 12.4 V and there's 11.4V at the starter. 12.4 volts also at the diode board. All the fuses (all 3 of them) are fine.
All suggestions welcome!
All suggestions welcome!
Correction, 9.4 at the diode board. Battery goosed?
Made sure the connections to battery (including the heavy +ve from battery to starter) are good, clean and tight? Main earth strap back in place?
Does the main earth not go directly from the battery negative to the bolt on the gearbox by the speedo drive?
Not this one. The 10mm bolt into the gearbox is notorious for stripping and giving a bad earth so the battery's earthed direct to the frame. I checked from the earth strap to the crankcase with the multimeter and the continuity was OK. May not be under heavy load though, so another check is in order.
It’s the earth. I connected my monster truck starter cable direct from the - on the battery to the crankcase- ta da! Still tripping out when the starter is pushed tho’. So that’s tomorrow’s job sorted! 
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mind there are various other points on the frame where youll need to file/grind off the powdercoat for earth paths - tab the coil bracket attaches to etc. there may also be grey primer under the black that could look like metal but isnt!
For interest sake try a jump lead on the negative from battery to the exhaust for example
I am thinking that perhaps the motor is not getting a proper ground because the inside of the engine mounts are all coated now and there are no other ground to the engine/motor except the speedo cable ?
I spent ages with a round file cleaning any wayward powdercoat off the inside of the engine stud frame holes on mine, and also ran a thick wire from a stud behind the front cover to the frame at the coil bracket. seemed a good idea as a failsafe.
I'd recommend you fit the battery ground back on the gearbox. Not much uses the frame as an earth. I see no point in making it so! Your starter earths to the engine (hopefully) so if your gearbox is normally fitted then you have no reason for a bad earth on that circuit if the gearbox is used. The Exhaust connection idea does not rate highly in my opinion, either.
Thanks all. A couple of minutes with the angle grinder and all is well. Engine spinning over fine and decent sparks at the plugs. I’ll consider returning the earth to the gearbox. However, I’m content to leave things as they are at the moment on the basis of , “if it ain’t broke (now) ... “
Waiting for Y piece from Tetley and a couple of odds and sods from Motorworks and she should be running by the end of next week. Deo volente!
Thanks again for the input?
Waiting for Y piece from Tetley and a couple of odds and sods from Motorworks and she should be running by the end of next week. Deo volente!
Thanks again for the input?
Electrajohnt
Registered user
Jumper
Cable from frame earth to gearbox earth.
JohnT
Cable from frame earth to gearbox earth.
JohnT
By the way, you probably know, but the bolt holding the earth strap to the gearbox has a hole down the middle of it as the gearbox breather.
Ta daaaaaa ...
There she goes! It's pretty noisy from the y piece and oem silencer with rusted internals. However, it ticks over not too badly. MOT is booked for next week. Tomorrow I'll ride over to the local dealer who does my MoTs and see what they say. Worst case scenario, I'll have to remove the Y piece pro tem and refit the collector box.
There she goes! It's pretty noisy from the y piece and oem silencer with rusted internals. However, it ticks over not too badly. MOT is booked for next week. Tomorrow I'll ride over to the local dealer who does my MoTs and see what they say. Worst case scenario, I'll have to remove the Y piece pro tem and refit the collector box.
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