And this (minus the actuating lever, spring and rubber boot) is what I’ve installed after I got the gearbox in. I’m pretty sure I’ve not mislaid out but no 12 (piston) seems to be missing?
Is it me?
Do you really want that answered??
Refurbing the GS
- Thread starter Posh Pete
- Start date
Do you really want that answered??
IN case you were serious and I am not sure you weren't playing with us 
That is the piston and on the inner side you will have a small bearing that the pushrod end fits into
Its updated from that fiche was first designed
That is the piston and on the inner side you will have a small bearing that the pushrod end fits into
Its updated from that fiche was first designed
Perfectly serious Jay. So much so that I whipped it out to check. The push rod is firmly attached to the inner side of the piston, as it was when I removed it. This is the first time I’ve done this on an airhead remember: one of the reasons I started this thread so that folk could learn from my daft laddie questions! 
So, I’m safe to continue assembling the spring, lever etc? :Menai:
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So, I’m safe to continue assembling the spring, lever etc? :Menai:
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Perfectly serious Jay. So much so that I whipped it out to check. The push rod is firmly attached to the inner side of the piston, as it was when I removed it. This is the first time I’ve done this on an airhead remember: one of the reasons I started this thread so that folk could learn from my daft laddie questions!
So, I’m safe to continue assembling the spring, lever etc? :Menai:
Nope there should be a bearing at the gearbox side which should rotate and the pushrod should be fairly easily removed from it
If its "one bit" it's definitely needing looked at Peter
Hmmmmm ... even if it rotates freely (which it does)? Anyway, I'm loused for the night, so it'll have to wait until tomorrow. Cheers Jay.
Bugger it! I nipped our and checked. The rod came away from the piston but the bearing is firmly embedded. Looking at the push rod, it more closely resembles the pre 1980 rod shown in the diagram below. And the piston resembles the earlier piston for that matter. It lacks the nipple show in the diagram above.
I wonder if someone has done a bitza during a previous gearbox refurbish? And does it matter if the rod rotates in the bearing and the clutch frees ok?
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I wonder if someone has done a bitza during a previous gearbox refurbish? And does it matter if the rod rotates in the bearing and the clutch frees ok?
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sounds like you should be talking to Bob!
all in order That just the later version with it all in one
https://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=6&Q=CLA64167&search=SEARCH
as long as the bearing is free rotating All will be okay
If its gritty it could bind up
That grease is it as black as yer boot down a coal mine and hard to get off your hands??
I wuz there
(Proff experiment)
all in order That just the later version with it all in one
https://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=6&Q=CLA64167&search=SEARCH
as long as the bearing is free rotating All will be okay
If its gritty it could bind up
That grease is it as black as yer boot down a coal mine and hard to get off your hands??
I wuz there
Well that’s a relief! Panic over.
. Carry on regardless ... Cheers once again Jayster!
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Jays THE man ! 
Jays THE man !
Steady there lad
Pete Did you notice my question about the grease in the spigot bearing ??
Was it black and really difficult to get off your hands but very slippy??
Nope. It was fine. The bearing moves freely without any grittiness. The muck is from the boot and clip (and my hands!) when I wheeked ithe piston out.
.I saw this on my 'phone and thought "By the time I get to my computer and give a sensible reply, someone will have beaten me to it" - and I was right
.Glad you're sorted Peter . . And thanks for the biscuits . . and more biscuits . . and yet more biscuits . . Sheesh, no wonder I'm putting on weight
.Bob.
I saw this on my 'phone and thought "By the time I get to my computer and give a sensible reply, someone will have beaten me to it" - and I was right
Glad you're sorted Peter . . And thanks for the biscuits . . and more biscuits . . and yet more biscuits . . Sheesh, no wonder I'm putting on weight
Bob.
Not that I could see, Bob. Biccies are no big deal. I know the non gluten ones are harder to get but there's loads in one's corner shop! Sorry I couldn't get any fig rolls!
Anyhoo ... Clutch now operating and I've pinched and marked one of her indoors' knitting needles to adjust it correctly!
Paralever gets installed later today.
Not that I could see, Bob. Biccies are no big deal. I know the non gluten ones are harder to get but there's loads in one's corner shop! Sorry I couldn't get any fig rolls!
Anyhoo ... Clutch now operating and I've pinched and marked one of her indoors' knitting needles to adjust it correctly!
Paralever gets installed later today.
And it's in, albeit not adjusted,or loctite-d yet. I got distracted with a lecky issue but sorted eventually. Lesson - you can never take enough pics or sticky labels/ diagrams!
Still learning at your advanced years Pete - very impressive!!!!
Don;t bother it's not needed Do a witness mark so you can see
Basically tighten and torque everything and then draw a line with a tippex marker across from the centre of the bolt or pivot pin, across the locknut (If Applicable) and onto the swingarm for example
just a simple straight line
So if you glance at the back end or caliper bolt for example you can visually see something slackening as the white lines move out of alignment
So ... what did we learn today boys?
1. Don't forget the fuel cross over pipe that runs over the top of the gearbox!
2. Leave the battery tray until last. Likewise, don't tighten up the gearbox bolts until after you've connected the gearbox output flange to the shaft. Ditto, the clutch actuating lever - leave it off until everything else is done.
All the above would make it easier to get at the 4x 10mm bi-hex bolts that connect the flange to the shaft! And then to fit and tighten up the gaiter.
Hindsight is brilliant isn't it!
There's not a lot of room in there! I started by jacking up the swinging arm until the two flanges were parallel. Then I used oneof the OLD bi-hex bolts to pull them together. I marked it with a sharpie just to be sure I didn't forget it! The old bolt had lost its loctite when it was removed, so it was easier to get it started on the thread.
Other things to make it easier? Slacken the clip on the swing arm side of the rubber gaiter. It makes it a little easier to move the gaiter and get at the 10mm bolts.
Once the old bolt was tightened and the flanges brought together, and with a bit of fiddling, I managed to get the three new bolts started on their threads. Then I removed the old one and started the fourth new one! Ten minutes later, they were all tightened up after putting the bike in gear and holding the crank via an allen key at the front.
Getting the gaiter tightened up was a PITA and not made any easier by the clutch actuating lever and battery tray getting in the way. (See above!) I managed with the help of a small pick (think dentist!) to hook the rubber over the gearbox cover.
After that, I finished off torquing the swinging arm pivots, loosely fitted the carbs and routed the throttle cables. Note to self: a regular bit of oil or WD40 on the throttle cable adjusters saves having to use Plus gas to free them!
Finally, a question: the splitter box for the choke is shown here. Buggered if I can remember how it and its cables are routed! I suspect I've got it on the wrong side of the frame's spine. Suggestions?
1. Don't forget the fuel cross over pipe that runs over the top of the gearbox!
2. Leave the battery tray until last. Likewise, don't tighten up the gearbox bolts until after you've connected the gearbox output flange to the shaft. Ditto, the clutch actuating lever - leave it off until everything else is done.
All the above would make it easier to get at the 4x 10mm bi-hex bolts that connect the flange to the shaft! And then to fit and tighten up the gaiter.
Hindsight is brilliant isn't it!
There's not a lot of room in there! I started by jacking up the swinging arm until the two flanges were parallel. Then I used oneof the OLD bi-hex bolts to pull them together. I marked it with a sharpie just to be sure I didn't forget it! The old bolt had lost its loctite when it was removed, so it was easier to get it started on the thread.
Other things to make it easier? Slacken the clip on the swing arm side of the rubber gaiter. It makes it a little easier to move the gaiter and get at the 10mm bolts.
Once the old bolt was tightened and the flanges brought together, and with a bit of fiddling
, I managed to get the three new bolts started on their threads. Then I removed the old one and started the fourth new one! Ten minutes later, they were all tightened up after putting the bike in gear and holding the crank via an allen key at the front.Getting the gaiter tightened up was a PITA and not made any easier by the clutch actuating lever and battery tray getting in the way. (See above!) I managed with the help of a small pick (think dentist!) to hook the rubber over the gearbox cover.
After that, I finished off torquing the swinging arm pivots, loosely fitted the carbs and routed the throttle cables. Note to self: a regular bit of oil or WD40 on the throttle cable adjusters saves having to use Plus gas to free them!
Finally, a question: the splitter box for the choke is shown here. Buggered if I can remember how it and its cables are routed! I suspect I've got it on the wrong side of the frame's spine. Suggestions?
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