Stantion rod - got a problem

Slipperyeel

Slipperyeel

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I've come to fit a new steering bearing. Everything has gone well. Except the easiest bloody nut!

The top (left side) stantion nut was stripped. See shots below. I had to get medieval with it. No choice. Nut is off now (I'll re-chamfer the nut recess when the yoke is off).

The bad news is, I think the thread on the stantion rod is the one that's buggered. My thoughts are to run a die over it first and if it is stripped, then use the next die size down. I don't know what's involved in fitting a new rod, let alone the cost.

Anyone been here before? Any tips?

Cheers

20200205_171020.jpg20200205_173415.jpg20200205_173056.jpg

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Thread is integral to the stantion ...

Motorworks do an oem used for £60 or a pattern new for £122 but they only do new in 35mm dia
 
Santa-2512 said:
Thread is integral to the stantion ...

Motorworks do an oem used for £60 or a pattern new for £122 but they only do new in 35mm dia
Click to expand...
Jesus. I didn't think the whole stantion would have to be replaced

Thanks for the info tho. I'm going to take a closer look in the morning. If it really is the thread on the stantion (I think it is) then it'll be motorworks pronto. And a service for the forks! Can't just do one... Bloody hell.

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Slipperyeel said:
Jesus. I didn't think the whole stantion would have to be replaced

Thanks for the info tho. I'm going to take a closer look in the morning. If it really is the thread on the stantion (I think it is) then it'll be motorworks pronto. And a service for the forks! Can't just do one... Bloody hell.

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Click to expand...

AFAIK you dont have to replace in pairs its just a tube with a threaded portion on the end

www.realoem.com will give you your correct part

Steptoe & Mikeyboy would be the best persons to ask if youve got to replace as a pair
 
No need to replace as a pair. And it’s a stanchion .
 
From pics doesn't look like there was any threadlock on threads of either bolt or nut?
 
NicD said:
From pics doesn't look like there was any threadlock on threads of either bolt or nut?
Click to expand...
There's none. You're right. But the other, good side doesn't have any either. All dry but clearly torqued, so it's just fine.

I'm so annoyed. Whoever did it had a very ham fisted moment!

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I've called MW. Their getting back to me later today

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Stanchtion from MW ordered (complete with top nut!!!) And new fork oil seals (I'll reuse the dust seals)

For anyone doing this job, there's a detail I bumped into that didn't seem to be working for me, then I got it.

Reading other right ups on this, people were saying (after everything was disconnected from the top yoke - but central bolt through bearing still in place) to turn the yoke to the right and lift out. It wasn't working for me. But with some fiddling i discovered it really needs to turn as far right as it'll go, which might involve making sure it clears and cables etc. You'll know when it really turns. It then does in fact just lift out.

Without this stanchtion business it would have been done by now... Flippin annoying!!

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Small update.

Steering bearing is in and all reassembled . Bearing in freezer, yoke up to about 65-70°, bearing just dropped in. Despite similar set up, the frozen bolt wasn't so keen on just dropping in... so some persuasion was needed.

Stanchtion from MW was in excellent nick. Now fitted and front wheel back on.

*one tip for fitting the oil seal. I discovered that the plastic tube of an old silicone sealant tube is almost perfect size to knock home the new seal. Worked a treat

Here's the knackered stantion next to the relevant from MW. The book says 40Nm for that nut. Seems a bit high to me, but that's what they are at now.

20200212_114122.jpg

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d734fe72a02f69b0c4cfb0db8d598e56.jpg
 
Ok. It's all back together. Test ride done. Now looking for some tips.

Refurbished front shock is great. I didn't expect to notice much. But the front is doing a load of work without transferring it all to the bars. In short. It's great! Thank you Denz0!

But here's where I'm looking for some tips. The bars/top yoke are not aligned with the wheel. So while riding straight the bars are on the cock.

I know what I've got to do, but it's a bit trial and error. Are there any more engineered/ measured ways of doing it?

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Check Haynes, but order of tightening for front end is to loosen forks clamps then tighten front wheel axle to pull it all straight. after that then tighten fork clamp bolts. but do double check haynes. or elsehwere on forum - i have posted about it before
 
You need to align the front wheel to the frame / rear wheel using boards or by eye.
Tighten axle, Align, tighten the pinch bolts a bit, align, tighten a bit more, repeat until pinch bolts at full torque.. You should check the torquing a few times so all four are evenly tight.
 
Finger tight, then bounce front end to remove any trapped stresses. Then tighten. You can also do the pushbike trick with it all finger tight. Stand in front of bike with front wheel between legs and hold and move bars until straight, then tighten. It’s really that simple. My old 1150 I park up in front of a lamp post, sit on the bike and holding the handlebars and knock the side of the front wheel tyre against the lamppost until straight.. People just love to over complicate things. :D
 
Guys, thanks for all the input. I'm kinda in Steptoes's thinking. BUT, it hasn't worked.

I think... tomorrow morning I'm going to losen the whole lot, have a wiggle while it's jacked up, then gently torque it all up...

The issue is I guess, each time you want to be sure it's right. You need a test ride... . If it's nit quite right, it'll show up in nano seconds on the first straight stretch....

Ok.... I'll keep you posted....gotta get it all sorted before Easter - first blast of the year down to Italy.

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Checked Haynes. My prior post correct. In normal bike the top & bottom yokes are fixed so you can use them to align front end. GS isn't the same given top yoke. So you need to use front axle to align front end. Release fork bridge clamp bolts, use axle to align front end by tightening to spec, then torque up fork clamp bolts. Push down on front end a couple of times after tightening axle (but before tightening clamp bolts) to align everything as steptoe says. This is process in Haynes (it adds to check correct gap btw fork legs of 170mm +/- small differential, I forget amount). I have used this to correct a front end misalignment previously after ball joint was replaced. Worked well. You need everythign else installed correctly, of course
 
NicD said:
Checked Haynes. My prior post correct. In normal bike the top & bottom yokes are fixed so you can use them to align front end. GS isn't the same given top yoke. So you need to use front axle to align front end. Release fork bridge clamp bolts, use axle to align front end by tightening to spec, then torque up fork clamp bolts. Push down on front end a couple of times after tightening axle (but before tightening clamp bolts) to align everything as steptoe says. This is process in Haynes (it adds to check correct gap btw fork legs of 170mm +/- small differential, I forget amount). I have used this to correct a front end misalignment previously after ball joint was replaced. Worked well. You need everythign else installed correctly, of course
Click to expand...
Many thanks for that. You've given me cause to praise for a moment and carefully read the Haynes manual.

I've been having a go this lunch time. The issue I'm bumping into is that that ad I torque up the clamps with the spindle installed, unscrewing the spindle becomes really tight - too tight in my view...

Something is changing though. I put tape with marks onto the forks and yoke before disassembly and with the spindle fitted and some torque on the clamp bolts, they no longer line up...



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