Cheap tyre pressure sensor

Skudd

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My front wheel tyre pressure sensor has gone AWOL (2010 bike). New they are stupid prices, second hand they are silly postage costs from Lithuania and they look like bits missing. I have seen the DIY replace battery link which route I may go down, but I have seen these cheap Chinese units. Has anyone tried them? Also are they the right units?

Ebay link

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1pc-8532...008271?hash=item2adab652cf:g:a7MAAOSwTm1d32Ua

Any thoughts or am I going to be the tester?
 
At those prices it'll cost you more to get the tyre removed and replaced. You may as well give it a punt.
 
I have used 4 Chinese ones, looked the same as the genuine ones even with BMW on them.
They all arrived without any codes on them.
A friend with a tyre company has a professional code reader so was able to read the codes on 2 of them and they worked ok.
The other 2 showed that they had letters in the codes which could not be entered in the ECU.
The good news, after buying a cheap Chinese wake up tool ( under a tenner), On waking up the 2nd pair the ECU recognised them and wrote the codes ( which were all number codes) to the ECU.
So my experiences in the end is good. They have been in a couple of years and came via Aliexpress.
Good luck.
 
Well I have bit the bullet and ordered one from China. I just hope it gets here mid March and not mid May as the warning light is doing my cranium in.
 
I have used these. And they work on my GSA'12 just fine.
I used a cheap wake up tool and can clearly see the code on the gs911.
Super happy that I didn't have to give my parts money to BMW

Oh and if you see a letter in the code sticker it is likely a hex-decimal code.
 
If there are any letters in the code you could try a converter like <a href="https://www.rapidtables.com/convert/number/hex-to-decimal.html" target="_blank">THIS</a> to get the decimal code.
 
Just a little confused, what do I need to program and where? Are they not fit and play? Programming the ECU?? Does the bike not just see the sensor and all id fine?
 
Just a little confused, what do I need to program and where? Are they not fit and play? Programming the ECU?? Does the bike not just see the sensor and all id fine?

Nope, that would be just toooo easy. New sensors need to be paired to the ECU either with a box you have or, if not, the dealer has.
If you were to install a new battery to the exisiting unit and it all worked then, no need of the pairing.
 
If there are any letters in the code you could try a converter like <a href="https://www.rapidtables.com/convert/number/hex-to-decimal.html" target="_blank">THIS</a> to get the decimal code.

Every day is a school day.
I wish I had known of this before.
Just followed the link and entered the code that had letters in it 33F18F and it converted to the correct code for the ECU.
 
Just a little confused, what do I need to program and where? Are they not fit and play? Programming the ECU?? Does the bike not just see the sensor and all id fine?

The ECU will not recognise the sensor. you will need someone local to you with a GS911 to remove the old codes from the ECU and either write the new code or use a wake up tool which will write the code to the blank slot in the ECU.
I think you can do it with the OBDlink MX and Motoscan software, but I have not bothered to try that way as the GS911 makes it so easy.
The Dealer will do it and charge you. I understand that they are not happy unless they have sold you the sensor.
 
Good chance stuff from Lithuania is from nicked bikes.

I would not dispute that but these units are from China and probably the same factory as the originals as they have Schrader electronics and the BMW part number on them.
I have seen them for a little over 10 pounds on ebay.
 
you don't need a wake up tool or a GS911

you can get them to wake by kicking the wheel where you've fitted the fakes ones or just tape them to a rear wheel and spin up to 30mph on the centre stand... even easier with a second bike... genuine ones then stay away for 15 mins, the fakes seem to go off earlier so need to work a bit faster

you can code then to your ZFE (central chassis electronics module) with the motoscan app, its 1/3 of price of a the 911 and when you have bought the posh adaptor they do a decent car app for 5 quid. so now have full diagnostics of BMW bikes and all cars for £100)

I have used fakes and genuine. I'm never bothering with fakes again, both fakes seem more troublesome, often stop mid ride when the BT gets muddled, key on off most times they wake up, or stop and wait for 5 mins and the remember what they are supposed to do. The genuine ones work 100% and never ever play up until the battery is 9 year old or thereabouts

if you get a dealership in a good mood doing a service or other work they can code dealer system with the new numbers for free.... so any future software updates the bike has working sensors rather than the old Bluetooth codes u need to update
 
Nope, that would be just toooo easy. New sensors need to be paired to the ECU either with a box you have or, if not, the dealer has.
If you were to install a new battery to the exisiting unit and it all worked then, no need of the pairing.

Where do you get the box and where does it go? What is the real name for it?
 
I have a diagnostic tool for my BMW 3 series car, would that do if I get a connector of some description?
 
I have a diagnostic tool for my BMW 3 series car, would that do if I get a connector of some description?

I doubt it... it needs to be quite sophisticated to write the correct data ...most diagnostic kit under £600 only reads.. The motoscan guy www.wgsoft.de developed a posh odbc adaptor UniCarScan and many of the car coding toy companies have now realised his is the best and are recco that from most coding activities these days
 
Some of the genuine ELM 327 obd tools are "said" to work with Motoscan app but how well ? you will also need the 16 pin obd to 10 pin bmw lead about £10 on ebay.
I use an OBDlink MX+ with 16 to 10 pin lead and Motoscan ultimate app with an android phone and it works for coding the sensors etc, but I prefer to use the GS911.
As for waking sensors, genuine or not, I have tried kicking the tyre, bouncing the wheel around the workshop, rapidly deflating the tyre, spinning the sensors up in a jig in the lathe, and nothing has worked except for the £10 wake up tool from China, which works every time.
I think your best bet is to find someone local to you with the kit to wake up the sensor and code the ECU, it will only take a few minutes.
If you were local to me I would be more than happy do it.
 
the BM ones need a tool or to be spun round above 25mph for two minutes
the fakes wake up easily, just shaking in your hand does the job.

I've had 4 fakes, two sent back, just liars trying to peddle the £30 a pair Chinese fakes as genuine BM. And I've still got two fakes, both play up. Swapped one for a genuine one in the back, and have another genuine one lined up for the front when I swap the tyre. The later genuine ones with 7 digit BT code run later firmware and are slightly more accurate

I've got a bit of Autel TPMS kit which won't wake up BM sensors, but wakes their own multi compatible aftermarket sensors and can code any BT code you fancy or update the firmware... which puzzles me
 


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