Have you checked that the exhaust flap is not stuck in the closed position?
2011 R1200GSA struggling to accelerate at high rpm problem!!
- Thread starter Moonmanzn
- Start date
Dont have one, deleted.
Well nothing has sorted it so ordered a new fuel pump and will wash out the filter in the housing and see what that does...then fuel controller after that...by then I will have built a new bike and probably need to register it for the road
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When reverse flushing the fuel filter, do not use an air line as this will break up the filter element. Don`t ask me how I know 
I ended up fitting a Bosch inline fuel injection filter for a VW golf, on the plus side at least I can now change it when necessary.
Just by-pass the fuel pump controller to see if that is the problem.
I ended up fitting a Bosch inline fuel injection filter for a VW golf, on the plus side at least I can now change it when necessary.
Just by-pass the fuel pump controller to see if that is the problem.
When reverse flushing the fuel filter, do not use an air line as this will break up the filter element. Don`t ask me how I know
I ended up fitting a Bosch inline fuel injection filter for a VW golf, on the plus side at least I can now change it when necessary.
Just by-pass the fuel pump controller to see if that is the problem.
Did you just power the pump straight from battery?
When reverse flushing the fuel filter, do not use an air line as this will break up the filter element. Don`t ask me how I know
I ended up fitting a Bosch inline fuel injection filter for a VW golf, on the plus side at least I can now change it when necessary.
Just by-pass the fuel pump controller to see if that is the problem.
I found your post in ADV rider on a another Dutch gentleman's post about exact same symptoms as mine...seems it was yours and his pumps in the end.
My symptoms seem to be not enough pressure ag top end? Would faulty controller only break down at high rpm?
From my limited experience, I understand that the controllers usually, either work or don`t work.
I don`t know what the function of the controller is as opposed to a relay, but I suspect it is current detecting as the fuel pressure is slightly higher without it in circuit.
This is pump pressure without the regulator in circuit. ( A new pattern pump delivered over 120 psi measured at the pump out of circuit).
yes connect the pump straight to the battery, I carry a short bypass lead with me, this connects the pump to a battery powered din socket on the dash. ( This dates back to the early 1200`s when there were problems with the controllers ).
I don`t know what the function of the controller is as opposed to a relay, but I suspect it is current detecting as the fuel pressure is slightly higher without it in circuit.
This is pump pressure without the regulator in circuit. ( A new pattern pump delivered over 120 psi measured at the pump out of circuit).
yes connect the pump straight to the battery, I carry a short bypass lead with me, this connects the pump to a battery powered din socket on the dash. ( This dates back to the early 1200`s when there were problems with the controllers ).
So have replaced the pump and still issue is there
Have checked the valves and near top end.
New plugs installed.
Twin Carb is on it's way for the carb synch
Barring that working nothing seems to cure my issue.
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Have checked the valves and near top end.
New plugs installed.
Twin Carb is on it's way for the carb synch
Barring that working nothing seems to cure my issue.
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where are we with the basics
Mileage and condition
service history
cylinder compression check?
air filter condition?
fuel / brand / age condition?
are we getting both throttle butterfly's opening fully on max throttle? (balance will make no difference at the top end) ?
Mileage and condition
service history
cylinder compression check?
air filter condition?
fuel / brand / age condition?
are we getting both throttle butterfly's opening fully on max throttle? (balance will make no difference at the top end) ?
17k and excellent condition
Been serviced every year
I just completed a full service
Compression is fine
Fuel is new and BP ultimate
I dont know how to check the butterflies at full throttle.
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that all sounds bit odd.... might be worth checking the air filter is in OK, its such a small thing, could easily get restricted or soggy with all the rain
the throttles are cable operated, the cable is on the inner side of each of the throttle bodies, if you look from underneath you'll see them.... get someone to turn throttle and see if they are moving correctly.
Can't remember did you put any diagnostics on the bike?
the other thing that's been wrong on mine and has had far more effect that I thought it could possibly have is the adaptions... All modern stuff with sensors and computers self tune to work around the particular build tolerances your bike got as it was made, to cope with mildly wayward data / interesting info about how its running, the fuel used or wear and tear as it ages.
I didn't know the bike's worked this way with a power commander fitted but I gather they do and it certainly seem to be like this.... with a power commander on the bike and the lambda sensors disconnected (like you are supposed to) … the bike knows and stops adapting. It also mean if you ride at interesting altitudes / weather conditions it won't work around this like it was designed to.
Anyway the point I'm making, after my bike was flashed with a later BMW map it was terrible and remained like this for more than a year. I tried multiple tweaks to the power commander which helped in tiny ways but it was never the same bike. What seems to have been part of the issue... because the power commander was on all the time it never re learnt the adaptions to suit. It was gutless and didn't run right in the middle.
Recently it was reflashed again.... but this time they were doing more in-depth testing. So I fitted a zero map (power commander does nothing) and I'd refitted the lambda sensors and new coils.... The bike came back very different (worse than ever !!!) .... its was so bad I nearly returned it inside 7 miles.... but during that few miles the bike continually improved and after it was warmed up, the middle kept improving and the top end hit that was missing for 18 months started to come back.
Its funny what you get used to, with it in BMW spec it is clunky, nasty and hard to ride well in traffic. Making no power under 3k with almost no flexibility. If you want to make good progress in traffic its a liability, trying to stall, fall over and generally make you crash. I've been working around this OK ish and letting the bike get a few miles to adapt again. In places the later map helps a tiny fraction. But after a few months off the bike, I rode it again the other day. Coming to it fresh, with a clear mind, what a recalcitrant death trap a standard bike is. Thoroughly unpleasant and unsafe to use (unless you never need it below 3k rpm on a closed throttle).
The point being with the right tools you can wipe adaptions and let the vehicle rebuild them (if the system is functioning). Maybe your bike got remapped???
the throttles are cable operated, the cable is on the inner side of each of the throttle bodies, if you look from underneath you'll see them.... get someone to turn throttle and see if they are moving correctly.
Can't remember did you put any diagnostics on the bike?
the other thing that's been wrong on mine and has had far more effect that I thought it could possibly have is the adaptions... All modern stuff with sensors and computers self tune to work around the particular build tolerances your bike got as it was made, to cope with mildly wayward data / interesting info about how its running, the fuel used or wear and tear as it ages.
I didn't know the bike's worked this way with a power commander fitted but I gather they do and it certainly seem to be like this.... with a power commander on the bike and the lambda sensors disconnected (like you are supposed to) … the bike knows and stops adapting. It also mean if you ride at interesting altitudes / weather conditions it won't work around this like it was designed to.
Anyway the point I'm making, after my bike was flashed with a later BMW map it was terrible and remained like this for more than a year. I tried multiple tweaks to the power commander which helped in tiny ways but it was never the same bike. What seems to have been part of the issue... because the power commander was on all the time it never re learnt the adaptions to suit. It was gutless and didn't run right in the middle.
Recently it was reflashed again.... but this time they were doing more in-depth testing. So I fitted a zero map (power commander does nothing) and I'd refitted the lambda sensors and new coils.... The bike came back very different (worse than ever !!!) .... its was so bad I nearly returned it inside 7 miles.... but during that few miles the bike continually improved and after it was warmed up, the middle kept improving and the top end hit that was missing for 18 months started to come back.
Its funny what you get used to, with it in BMW spec it is clunky, nasty and hard to ride well in traffic. Making no power under 3k with almost no flexibility. If you want to make good progress in traffic its a liability, trying to stall, fall over and generally make you crash. I've been working around this OK ish and letting the bike get a few miles to adapt again. In places the later map helps a tiny fraction. But after a few months off the bike, I rode it again the other day. Coming to it fresh, with a clear mind, what a recalcitrant death trap a standard bike is. Thoroughly unpleasant and unsafe to use (unless you never need it below 3k rpm on a closed throttle).
The point being with the right tools you can wipe adaptions and let the vehicle rebuild them (if the system is functioning). Maybe your bike got remapped???
I have fitted new pump...still the same.
Ride to work on friday I overtook a car and in 3rd gear it bucked a bit then accelerated.
Still feels underpowered at 80mph as if against a strong headwind.
Last things to check is lower coils and fuel pump ecu but research shows that it would fail completely and not create these issues.
Ride to work on friday I overtook a car and in 3rd gear it bucked a bit then accelerated.
Still feels underpowered at 80mph as if against a strong headwind.
Last things to check is lower coils and fuel pump ecu but research shows that it would fail completely and not create these issues.
So to recap
Valves checked and one at .23..all in spec
TB Sync done
Adaptations reset
New plugs and full service
New fuel pump
New primary coils
Fuel Module blanked
Had it up to GS911 and O2 sensors seem ok?
Otherwise I'm stumped as to why I have this holding back at higher rpm.
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Valves checked and one at .23..all in spec
TB Sync done
Adaptations reset
New plugs and full service
New fuel pump
New primary coils
Fuel Module blanked
Had it up to GS911 and O2 sensors seem ok?
Otherwise I'm stumped as to why I have this holding back at higher rpm.
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If you haven't checked the lower plugs, put it on centre stand while it's running pull the main plug caps one at a time, it should still run on lower plugs (albeit badly). if you pull a main plug and it stops then that lower is fecked.
Do not leave the bike running on the centre stand unattended or for very long.
Do not leave the bike running on the centre stand unattended or for very long.
Thanks Sir, bike will ride only on lower coils but not very well. Assume they ok then?
Just clutching at straws really, but have you checked the airbox 'trumpet' thingy for obstruction?
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