Dwarf with a GS

Skapegoat said:

I never tought I would be argueing with Santa

I've had many bikes, big singles, big V twins, inline fours, tripples, 4 strokes, 2 strokes and a few race bikes.
The only time I have ever had a flat spot like this was either carb issues or coil issues.

The Beemer has a fueling issue, caused by a map designed to pass emissions.
This can be tuned out with hilltop, PC or Xeid.
If it can be tuned out it is then a flaw with the original map.

No one will change my mind on this, yes you could ride around it but every So often you will still hit that flat spot.
If it can be tuned out that's what I intend to do.
I don't want to ride the bike like a race bike but I do want predictable smooth running through the rev range.

I still maintain it is not character, it is euro 4 or whatever ruining the potential of a smooth power curve.

I've had an early vfr800 vtec which people say are snatchy but this is alot worse and less predictable.

Click to expand...

Trust me, you don't ever want to argue with Santa lol Otherwise December will be interesting

We're not arguing, just having a healthy discussion, regarding an issue, or non issue as the case may be.

i was in exactly the same situation as you, and again like you have ridden peaky 2 strokes, Big 500cc single thumpers, Vtwins, cruisers, and used to silky smooth jap 4's

I remember riding it to work one morning and thinking i had made the biggest mistake ever.

It seemed lumpy, tick over was low, didn't like the throttle being blipped at tick over, noisy, sluggish.

So along with help from the Guys on here, i set about changing it

Mine was a 2006 with 24k on the clock

New tyres, - revelation, went from noisy Karoo3's to Avon Trailriders.

New starter motor & uprated battery cables & battery (motobatt) - cured the hot & sometimes cold starting issues

Had the rear cardon drive unit rebuilt

Oil change & valve clearances reset (inc endfloat) - adaptations reset, idle motors reset, carbs balanced Manometer & Harmonizer -this made a huge difference,

And then an oil change 1k later ( we suspect the last service was on paper only) So this was to be doubly sure

this lot made a huge difference. It never going to be a blade or VFR but it could hustle.. with limitations

I don't think i ever got to 6k lol, why would you, the low end torque is enough to get the lump up to license loosing speeds, and then its just sit back and enjoy it.

When this shitstorm is over.......get it booked in with Mark in Platinum Motorcycles for a "once over"

You won't find anyone in our neck of the woods that knows more about Beemers.

from my G8 ThinQ

Santa-2512 said:

Trust me, you don't ever want to argue with Santa lol Otherwise December will be interesting

We're not arguing, just having a healthy discussion, regarding an issue, or non issue as the case may be.

i was in exactly the same situation as you, and again like you have ridden peaky 2 strokes, Big 500cc single thumpers, Vtwins, cruisers, and used to silky smooth jap 4's

I remember riding it to work one morning and thinking i had made the biggest mistake ever.

It seemed lumpy, tick over was low, didn't like the throttle being blipped at tick over, noisy, sluggish.

So along with help from the Guys on here, i set about changing it

Mine was a 2006 with 24k on the clock

New tyres, - revelation, went from noisy Karoo3's to Avon Trailriders.

New starter motor & uprated battery cables & battery (motobatt) - cured the hot & sometimes cold starting issues

Had the rear cardon drive unit rebuilt

Oil change & valve clearances reset (inc endfloat) - adaptations reset, idle motors reset, carbs balanced Manometer & Harmonizer -this made a huge difference,

And then an oil change 1k later ( we suspect the last service was on paper only) So this was to be doubly sure

this lot made a huge difference. It never going to be a blade or VFR but it could hustle.. with limitations

I don't think i ever got to 6k lol, why would you, the low end torque is enough to get the lump up to license loosing speeds, and then its just sit back and enjoy it.

Click to expand...

I have a Blade for sunny days but this is more the all round mile muncher.

I've done the oil change, gear box oil, final drive oil, valve clearances, lubed the splines, alternator belt and added decay exhaust and plus a few bits.

I'd like to pick your brains on this section though...

"adaptations reset, idle motors reset, carbs balanced Manometer & Harmonizer -this made a huge difference,"

How do I reset adaption?
Idle motors?
I know how to balance carbs but it's fuel injected... do you mean throttle bodies?


Cheers, John.

Ps. I don't like coal.

Skapegoat said:

I have a Blade for sunny days but this is more the all round mile muncher.

I've done the oil change, gear box oil, final drive oil, valve clearances, lubed the splines, alternator belt and added decay exhaust and plus a few bits.

I'd like to pick your brains on this section though...

"adaptations reset, idle motors reset, carbs balanced Manometer & Harmonizer -this made a huge difference,"

How do I reset adaption?
Idle motors?
I know how to balance carbs but it's fuel injected... do you mean throttle bodies?


Cheers, John.

Ps. I don't like coal.

Click to expand...

I dont control what gets given out

Adaptations, idle stepper motors and yes its throttle bodys balanced ( old school lol)

To do them correctly requires a bit of kit called a GS911 which is an electronic dongle that can read the ecu's for faults - reset the faults, and can be used for servicing functions

it can also do realtime data logging which can be usefull to look at what the various sensors on the bike are doing at any time

This the best explanation of adaptations i could find

Most BMW engine control modules are adaptive. These modules store information that keeps the vehicle running smoothly based on the regular operating conditions the vehicle is used in. The adaptation values take into account many operating parameters of the vehicle. When a fault condition occurs the control module takes this in to account and adapts to continue operating with the fault condition. Since resetting the adaption will erase the adaptive values, it is normal for the vehicle to run rough or hesitate until the values are relearned. Some control modules will automatically reset adaptation values when fault codes are erased.

If i recall you have to lock the idle motors when you do a throttle body resync.

I dont have my hexhead any more, so i cant recall the full process from the gs911

you can also reset the TPS as well, but thats more for idle and throttle position end stops

BMW TPS Reset TPS reset routine:
1) Disconnect battery for about 30 seconds then reconnect (causes ECU to lose it's memory of Throttle Position Sensor).
2) Turn ignition to on but DO NOT start the engine.
3) Slowly wind the throttle fully open to fully shut, repeat this three times.
4) Turn off ignition. (ECU now stores TPS position data in memory).
5) Wait 5 seconds.
6) Turn on ignition again and start bike. Before doing this, I would check that the wiring to the TPS itself hasn't been kicked or disturbed, its the electrical unit on the air intake in front of your Left foot.

you dont have to disconnect the battery i believe

The TPS sensor on the LH throttle body is known to fail, due to wear. you can clean them (carefully) and normal service is normally resumed but its a good idea to obtain a replacement - there found on many different bmw's at half the price of a mottoraad one - i think about £40 on the bay..

The symptom of a failing tps is stalling at low speed, closed throttle and sometimes a crap idle

Skapegoat said:

I have a Blade for sunny days but this is more the all round mile muncher.

I've done the oil change, gear box oil, final drive oil, valve clearances, lubed the splines, alternator belt and added decay exhaust and plus a few bits.

I'd like to pick your brains on this section though...

"adaptations reset, idle motors reset, carbs balanced Manometer & Harmonizer -this made a huge difference,"

How do I reset adaption?
Idle motors?
I know how to balance carbs but it's fuel injected... do you mean throttle bodies?


Cheers, John.

Ps. I don't like coal.

Click to expand...

What oil did you use..

some find that 10w40 gets a bit noisy in hot summer temps so go to 20W50

and you dont need to go exotic, mineral oil is fine

Ah shite!

Just went to start me new bus that I am so very impressed with and no go.

Ignition on, dash comes on, abs servo primes, then EWS comes up on dash and no starting.

I don't think the fuel pump is priming.

Any advice on where to start.
Will get to the bike later had to head to work in 4 wheels.
I know the fuel pump has been replaced before early in the full history.

I have an early Haynes manual.

Skapegoat said:

Ah shite!

Just went to start me new bus that I am so very impressed with and no go.

Ignition on, dash comes on, abs servo primes, then EWS comes up on dash and no starting.

I don't think the fuel pump is priming.

Any advice on where to start.
Will get to the bike later had to head to work in 4 wheels.
I know the fuel pump has been replaced before early in the full history.

I have an early Haynes manual.

Click to expand...

Ews immobiliser ...

really quick way to check

Turn bike off,

Turn handlebars all the way to left, turn ignition on - EWS yes or no If no, start bike, all good - if yes, turn off bike

leave handlebars in mid postion turn ignition on - EWS yes or no IF no, start bike, all good - if yes, turn off bike

Turn handlebars all the way to right, turn ignition on - EWS yes or no if no, start bike all good - if yes, turn off bike

Basically either the ring anntenna (immobiliser ) has failed or you have a broken wire in the headstock area, where the cables are nice and tight EWS just means it cant see the key

EWS will only cause a no start when it's displayed - no ews on the dash and the bike will start

if it is a broken cable confirmed via the above check, it's normally a simple fix

Once the bike starts the ews wont be a problem, its only if its on the kombi you will have a problem

If broken wire, it's a pits to fix , just time over money a new ring antenna is pretty easy to so also just cost to get the ring antenna

The only negative is, if the ring antenna has failed, you wont know until you fit a new one, and then if you still get ews, its a broken wire

For the sake of an afternoon removing the tank and wiring out of the headstock its easliy doable ..

let me find the post with the repair in

Found it

https://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/493560-EWS-warning

page 2 may help

Thanks a mill for that info!
I believe in Santa again!

Ok,

Took half the bike apart.

Nothing obvious on the lume.

Bars left, straight and right no difference.

Just before cutting the lume I decided to test the spare key.
Boom started no probs, tried it a few times just to check it wasn't a fluke.

So key 1 won't work key 2 does.

Key 1 won't work even with key 2 held up to sensor.

So it's a faulty key?
If it has no battery how can it go faulty?

Can they be recoded?

Skapegoat said:

Ok,

Took half the bike apart.

Nothing obvious on the lume.

Bars left, straight and right no difference.

Just before cutting the lume I decided to test the spare key.
Boom started no probs, tried it a few times just to check it wasn't a fluke.

So key 1 won't work key 2 does.

Key 1 won't work even with key 2 held up to sensor.

So it's a faulty key?
If it has no battery how can it go faulty?

Can they be recoded?

Click to expand...

Main dealer either way i think

certainly to procure a key and the chip is in the key which i believe needs marrying to the bike

take the old key with you, and see what they can do

I just don't get how a key with no battery can just stop working???

The mind boggles.

Can't find any info on a similar problem online.

Skapegoat said:

I just don't get how a key with no battery can just stop working???

The mind boggles.

Can't find any info on a similar problem online.

Click to expand...

The key has a small inductive coil in it, when the ring antenna energises, the magnetic field from the ring antennas is enough to excite the coil in the key ,

it produces enough electricity to chirp the key code to the ring antenna

key with no batteries

The coil can fail, or the chip itself

I think a new key from the Mothership in Ireland is around 60 or 70 yoyos.

Probably have to show them the log book.
Chassis number is enough to get a working key ordered up.

from my G8 ThinQ

I have no issue paying for a new key but I want to make sure the bike isn't going to wipe other keys.
It might just be my bad luck that this one key failed but would like to make sure the EWS is fully functioning or could be randomly rejecting codes.

Santa-2512 said:

Trust me, you don't ever want to argue with Santa lol Otherwise December will be interesting

We're not arguing, just having a healthy discussion, regarding an issue, or non issue as the case may be.

i was in exactly the same situation as you, and again like you have ridden peaky 2 strokes, Big 500cc single thumpers, Vtwins, cruisers, and used to silky smooth jap 4's

I remember riding it to work one morning and thinking i had made the biggest mistake ever.

It seemed lumpy, tick over was low, didn't like the throttle being blipped at tick over, noisy, sluggish.

So along with help from the Guys on here, i set about changing it

Mine was a 2006 with 24k on the clock

New tyres, - revelation, went from noisy Karoo3's to Avon Trailriders.

New starter motor & uprated battery cables & battery (motobatt) - cured the hot & sometimes cold starting issues

Had the rear cardon drive unit rebuilt

Oil change & valve clearances reset (inc endfloat) - adaptations reset, idle motors reset, carbs balanced Manometer & Harmonizer -this made a huge difference,

And then an oil change 1k later ( we suspect the last service was on paper only) So this was to be doubly sure

this lot made a huge difference. It never going to be a blade or VFR but it could hustle.. with limitations

I don't think i ever got to 6k lol, why would you, the low end torque is enough to get the lump up to license loosing speeds, and then its just sit back and enjoy it.

Click to expand...

So Santa for this year I want money please! Lots of it.

I finally got to the bottom of my flat spot issues which increased in frequency making the bike somewhat irratic to drive.

I got it to a dyno and they suspected a faulty rhs lower coil.
The exhaust temp with a laser thermometer was lower on this side.
As they could only get it to replicate on the lower 3k flat spot they felt the issue was with the right angled coil.

70e for the dyno, he said the throttle bodies were balanced and the fuel pump was strong.

168euro for a BMW coil and the issue persisted.
As I now had a spare lower coil I shaped sides and no difference.

So I had a gut feeling from the start that the main voil was the issue and replaced the Rhs main straight stick coil and walla!
She runs like a dream.

Turns out I bought the bike with an intermittent failing coil and there I was blaming poor fueling.

I'm in love with the bike all over again!