2015 R1200RT LE Tips

Fagin

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Hi folks, was wondering if I could ask for some tips on what to look for as far as any areas of concern on a 2015 R1200RT LE which my Blood Bike group is thinking of buying from a dealer (Non BMW)
This bike has had one owner and only has 3240 miles on it is very clean but not really knowing these bikes would like to ask for some advice please :thumby:
 
Nice low mileage on that one, so probably be perfect.
The 2015 RT is pretty bulletproof, except for possible final drive issues.
Go for an extended test ride, so she's warned up. And listen for any knocking or grinding from the back wheel. Also check for excessive play in the rear hub.
Gearboxes can be clunky when hot, but that's pretty normal.
Cheers
 
Check the exhaust flap is still working. No visual warning on the dash, but will be seen if plugged into the mothership computer as faulty. When you switch on the bike, the flap should open and close, if it squeaks, its on its way out. If its stuck open, the bike will be fine, we bought a 2015 RTp off a paramedic group and the flap is stuck open. But to repair, you need new headers, which are around £1200, so reselling or buying is a good bargaining point.
 
Nice low mileage on that one, so probably be perfect.
The 2015 RT is pretty bulletproof, except for possible final drive issues.
Go for an extended test ride, so she's warned up. And listen for any knocking or grinding from the back wheel. Also check for excessive play in the rear hub.
Gearboxes can be clunky when hot, but that's pretty normal.
Cheers

Thanks for the advice Yonkyo
 
Check the exhaust flap is still working. No visual warning on the dash, but will be seen if plugged into the mothership computer as faulty. When you switch on the bike, the flap should open and close, if it squeaks, its on its way out. If its stuck open, the bike will be fine, we bought a 2015 RTp off a paramedic group and the flap is stuck open. But to repair, you need new headers, which are around £1200, so reselling or buying is a good bargaining point.

Thanks casbar
 
The 2015 RT is pretty bulletproof, except for possible final drive issues.
Go for an extended test ride, so she's warned up. And listen for any knocking or grinding from the back wheel. Also check for excessive play in the rear hub.

Final drive issues on the LC ? :nenau
 
Final drive issues on the LC ? :nenau

Usual... check free play sideways on the wheels, weeping from the edges etc. I seriously believe post 2010 bikes are a lot better, although I have zero real evidence to substantiate this. But with 3k miles you have nothing to worry about for now. I used to recall from hex threads and my own 05 hex gs, that problematic drives ( a good percentage but still a fraction of all) would need attention every 15k miles or so if they did. But some didnt. I still have a mate on a London ridden 07 R with over 50k miles on its original shaft (pretty much everything else has fallen apart or rusted through, but not the drive)
 
Usual... check free play sideways on the wheels, weeping from the edges etc. I seriously believe post 2010 bikes are a lot better, although I have zero real evidence to substantiate this. But with 3k miles you have nothing to worry about for now. I used to recall from hex threads and my own 05 hex gs, that problematic drives ( a good percentage but still a fraction of all) would need attention every 15k miles or so if they did. But some didnt. I still have a mate on a London ridden 07 R with over 50k miles on its original shaft (pretty much everything else has fallen apart or rusted through, but not the drive)

Cheers theop
 
Usual... check free play sideways on the wheels, weeping from the edges etc. I seriously believe post 2010 bikes are a lot better, although I have zero real evidence to substantiate this. But with 3k miles you have nothing to worry about for now. I used to recall from hex threads and my own 05 hex gs, that problematic drives ( a good percentage but still a fraction of all) would need attention every 15k miles or so if they did. But some didnt. I still have a mate on a London ridden 07 R with over 50k miles on its original shaft (pretty much everything else has fallen apart or rusted through, but not the drive)

I had a 2014 RT with over 30k on it, there were no issues with the final drive. Don't think its an issue on the LCs
 
I had a 2014 RT with over 30k on it, there were no issues with the final drive. Don't think its an issue on the LCs

Cheers casbar, I have just found out a bit more about this bike. 1 owner from new, the mileage is so low because he has several bikes (Lucky sod lol) and this mileage is comparable to his other bikes and it has a full service history, it should be a no brainer as long as my Board agrees to spend the money.
 
Cheers casbar, I have just found out a bit more about this bike. 1 owner from new, the mileage is so low because he has several bikes (Lucky sod lol) and this mileage is comparable to his other bikes and it has a full service history, it should be a no brainer as long as my Board agrees to spend the money.

just make sure the flap is working, on my 2014 bike I had two sets of headers replaced courtesy of BMW. Like I said our RTp Blood Bike has the flap stuck open, but it really makes no difference to the running of the bike, but expensive to fix.
 
As above, echo the flaps issue, will run if stuck open, lack power if near closed. If a private bike (i.e not an RTP) then not a lot else. They're good bikes.

Gearbox is clunky on pre 17, and can sound rattly when warm and in hot weather. Wouldn't worry about either.

Sounds like the one you're looking at is a bit of a find.
 
Or just take the exhaust flap out. Problem sorted! I took it out of my 2010 GS. Other than an error message during the service no issues. :beerjug:
 


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