2019 Fat Bob Battery removal

ianran

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Battery has gone flat, I have no electrics in my garage so need to remove it to charge it.
I have a remote adjuster by the right hand cover, anyone know if it removes easily? I've just had a replacement knee so need to judge what needs to be done as I'm not overly agile at the moment. Thanks in advance.
 
Put your thread title into YouTube and there are three 'how too' vid's; judge for yourself if you're capable :thumb
 
I know but they dont have the remote adjuster just needed to know if this a couple of screws or a pia to do!
 
To be fair it looked like a bit of a faff, including the use of extended pliers to remove the +ive lead :nenau
 
Leave it till lockdown is over - then jumpstart it from a car and go for a long ride.



Most Harleys have an optimate plug.... could you not get it close enough using an extension lead?
 
Just watched the videos, crikey who thought burying the battery in the guts of the bike was a good idea.....
 
Leave it till lockdown is over - then jumpstart it from a car and go for a long ride.



Most Harleys have an optimate plug.... could you not get it close enough using an extension lead?

I'm 4 weeks post knee replacement and my garage is away from my house, easiest option is phone the break down but I just wanted to sort myself if possible.
 
Can you get a solar panel on the garage roof ?
 
Has it got an Alarm? I suspect the solar tender will be outgunned by demand.
 
You sound like a prime candidate for a rechargeable power pack, they're not expensive and will save you ever having to remove the battery.
 
You sound like a prime candidate for a rechargeable power pack, they're not expensive and will save you ever having to remove the battery.

I think you may be right!
I’ve checked and it appears that the fuse has gone in the battery tender circuit, I have no output there but lights still work.
I am hoping it’s a standard automotive blade fuse in there. My problem is that because of my leg and having to play garage Tetris with other bikes I get about. 1/2 hour on my leg before needing rest! 1st world problems a?
 
If it has an alarm it may go off when you disconnect the battery. I found this out by accident on my Street Bob when changing batteries. Turned out the Alarm had a separate battery, so if the bike was nicked the alarm could not be silenced by disconnecting the main battery. That said my bike was much older so things may have changed on the modern bikes:nenau
 
If it has an alarm it may go off when you disconnect the battery. I found this out by accident on my Street Bob when changing batteries. Turned out the Alarm had a separate battery, so if the bike was nicked the alarm could not be silenced by disconnecting the main battery. That said my bike was much older so things may have changed on the modern bikes:nenau

There’s destructions on how to stop this in the handbook.
To add insult to injury my battery charger doesn’t do AGM batteries, I need to go shopping!
Does beg the question, will solar panel tenderers damage the battery?
 
I think you may be right!
I’ve checked and it appears that the fuse has gone in the battery tender circuit, I have no output there but lights still work.
I am hoping it’s a standard automotive blade fuse in there. My problem is that because of my leg and having to play garage Tetris with other bikes I get about. 1/2 hour on my leg before needing rest! 1st world problems a?

Hi Ian,

I am the chap that just sent you a copy of the manual for these bikes from the (cough) US HD forum.

Now then, there's a couple of things to know about these bikes....the first is that it's utterly unfuckingpossible to get any kind of jump cable clips to the battery terminals - or even to the starter positive and a convenient ground. The only way to jump them is with a big screwdriver down from under the seat onto the positive terminal and the positive jump clamp attached to that. Which isn't a very good solution, but does work and you get quite good at it. Just be carful not to let the screwdriver touch anything other than the positive terminal.

The second is that the battery tender circuit has a 7.5A fuse in the main fuse block underneath the left side panel. Easy enough to replace - check the manual. It is a standard mini-blade type.

When you next take the battery out, I would highly recommend making up a remote positive terminal cable from a bit of proper battery cable with a decent insulated terminal on the end. This will make jumping the bike a breeze. Or you can buy a similar thing with an SAE connector on the end and use something like an XP10 jump start pack. Don't try to use the existing tender lead because......7.5A maximum.

It's not so bad taking the battery out to charge indoors once you know what you are doing, but it is a good 5-10 minute job each time and a bit fiddly getting the plastic cover to pop off. Plus if you have to do it all the time, you will hate it.

So given your situation with no power in the garage, your best bet is probably to make up or buy a remote jump start terminal, then use a lithium power pack to start the bike if it won't do it by itself. The alternative is too pull the main fuse so the alarm doesn't eat the battery - but that's not a great solution either.

A good thing about these bikes is that the charging circuitry is very good - they charge batteries quite quickly once they are running.

And the final bad point is that there is also a known bug that will discharge the battery occasionally and randomly if left unattended. There is a dealership flash fix for this though - so get that done if hasn't already been.
 
Hi Ian,

I am the chap that just sent you a copy of the manual for these bikes from the (cough) US HD forum.

Now then, there's a couple of things to know about these bikes....the first is that it's utterly unfuckingpossible to get any kind of jump cable clips to the battery terminals - or even to the starter positive and a convenient ground. The only way to jump them is with a big screwdriver down from under the seat onto the positive terminal and the positive jump clamp attached to that. Which isn't a very good solution, but does work and you get quite good at it. Just be carful not to let the screwdriver touch anything other than the positive terminal.

The second is that the battery tender circuit has a 7.5A fuse in the main fuse block underneath the left side panel. Easy enough to replace - check the manual. It is a standard mini-blade type.

When you next take the battery out, I would highly recommend making up a remote positive terminal cable from a bit of proper battery cable with a decent insulated terminal on the end. This will make jumping the bike a breeze. Or you can buy a similar thing with an SAE connector on the end and use something like an XP10 jump start pack. Don't try to use the existing tender lead because......7.5A maximum.

It's not so bad taking the battery out to charge indoors once you know what you are doing, but it is a good 5-10 minute job each time and a bit fiddly getting the plastic cover to pop off. Plus if you have to do it all the time, you will hate it.

So given your situation with no power in the garage, your best bet is probably to make up or buy a remote jump start terminal, then use a lithium power pack to start the bike if it won't do it by itself. The alternative is too pull the main fuse so the alarm doesn't eat the battery - but that's not a great solution either.

A good thing about these bikes is that the charging circuitry is very good - they charge batteries quite quickly once they are running.

And the final bad point is that there is also a known bug that will discharge the battery occasionally and randomly if left unattended. There is a dealership flash fix for this though - so get that done if hasn't already been.

Many thanks for your help I’d already tried the screwdriver on the terminal trick with little success! I have a charger on order so will remove the battery and charge it with that. For the future I have a jump start battery thing which has ciggy lighter sockets on it, I am going to get an inverter, plug it into the socket and then power the charger with this. This will go through the battery tender socket. Hopefully this will help keeping charged for the future.

My next job is to replace the number plate fitting with one mounted below the rear fender with extra running light ( I like to be seen!). I have then got my sat nav bracket and heated grips to go on it, just been written off sick with my dodgy knee so will be able to pace myself! My only other real issue is the seat is killing my coccyx so i am looking for an alternative!
 
So, tried to use my Halfrauds battery jump pack, an inverter and a charger through the battery tender socket. Flattened the jump pack in about 40 minutes and still not enough charge. I did the math and figured it would quicker to remove the battery. Not that hard but, couldn’t find the tape that you pull to move it up an over the frame tube, so 2 screwdrivers did the trick. Took about 30 minutes but most of that was down to my flexibility post knee op.
Lesson learnt, do it right first time!
Other lesson learnt, if you try and jump through the battery tender socket it will blow the fuse on it!
At least Harley give you a spare as they are mini versions of the normal car ones!
Worth the job as that area of the bike is overly protected from road grime so gave me a chance to clean up there! Yes I know you shouldn’t ride Harleys in the Winter !!Although my local BMW dealer told me nobody makes bikes anymore that survive my riding season well !!
 


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