You still put the effort in - My heart rate on a c30 mile ride, at my age my max heart rate is supposed to be c160bpm
You all told me.....
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You still put the effort in - My heart rate on a c30 mile ride, at my age my max heart rate is supposed to be c160bpm
I ride a conventional bike, for 11 miles average speed 13mph and I burned 1470 calories.
Mix of canal, off road and 30% road.
Looking at your data you travelled further and faster and burnt less calories.
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Mix of canal, off road and 30% road.
Looking at your data you travelled further and faster and burnt less calories.
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Sorry to break it to you but you did not burn 1470 calories riding 11 miles - You need to put that Ginsters back on the shelf
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Gotta agree with this ,Strava guesses the amount of calories you have burnt, no idea how it it calculates it. I can ride on the road at19 mph average over 50 miles and it shows 1100 calories burnt, yet my mate will do 25 miles on the road at 15 mph and burn 1400 calories . I think it use that old calculation method called ...BOLLOCKS
Yep, but they include Cube pedals with all bikes, as long as you ask. Most people put more expensive pedals on, which is why they don’t normally include them.
I take it you are getting it from the UK Electric Bike Company then Rich ?
A friend of mine sold his wife's Cooper S Convertible and spunked the £10k he got for it on four e-bikes from them
I got it from these guys https://www.e-bikeshop.co.uk/
Nope, no chance, unless you weigh about 30 stone!
I did 40km on Tuesday on a mic of roads rough terrain, and burnt 1140 calories.
Yeah, it’s the race version of that.
How do I derestrict it?
Nutty, here’s a Bosch press release. It looks like you can’t currently derestrict 2020 onward Bosch motors, although I’m use someone will work around it in the future.
FOR MODEL YEAR 2020, BOSCH EBIKE SYSTEMS IS LAUNCHING SOFTWARE THAT RECOGNISES EBIKE TUNING AND CONSEQUENTLY REDUCES SUPPORT. THIS SOLUTION IS THE BOSCH RESPONSE TO A REQUIREMENT INCLUDED IN THE CURRENT EUROPEAN STANDARD (EN 15194: 2017) FOR ELECTRIC MOTOR-SUPPORTED BICYCLES, MARKING ANOTHER IMPORTANT STEP IN THE FIGHT AGAINST TUNING.
BOSCH EBIKE SYSTEMS HAS DEVELOPED SOFTWARE THAT USES A SENSOR TO DETECT WHETHER THE PEDELEC HAS BEEN TUNED. IF THE SOFTWARE RECOGNISES THAT THE DRIVE HAS BEEN MANIPULATED, THE EBIKE AUTOMATICALLY SWITCHES TO LIMP HOME MODE.
BOSCH PRESS RELEASE
Taken from this page. https://www.emtbforums.com/2020-bosch-update-new-motors-625wh-battery-and-more/
Order cancelled!
I’m assuming that you’ll still be able to pedal faster than the limit, on downhill sections though?
Edit - just watched the video, and there’s no resistance once you go past the limiter, unlike the previous gen.
Order cancelled!
Ha ha! I’m so close to ordering one.
Yes you can. Apparently the motor disengages above 15mph, making it easier to pedal. I don’t think I’d ever need to worry about that though!
Order cancelled!
I’m assuming that you’ll still be able to pedal faster than the limit, on downhill sections though?
Ahahahaha
Bosch on my Trek..... never bothered to derestrict as most of my stuff is offroad..... uphill 15 mph is fine.... downhill the motor cutting out doesn't matter.
My Trek's the best/fastest of all by the way!
My Trek's the best/fastest of all by the way!
Order cancelled!
I’m assuming that you’ll still be able to pedal faster than the limit, on downhill sections though?
for you new Bosch owners that need more speed.... this from the Speedbox link:............
IMPORTANT NOTICE FOR GEN4 OWNERS
If you eBike has a 4th generation motor (2020 onwards) it is necessary to leave the eBike on after finishing your ride until a value of 0.0 km/h is displayed. This process will take 2-3 minutes, once completed it is safe to turn off your eBike. This step will ensure your eBike does not go into 'limp' mode.
The Bosch detection software in the new CX Motor (which this is) will detect a dongle, so they say. Besides, I wouldn't add any foreign electronics for the first couple of years, to keep the warranty going. My wife's Orbea developed a fault with the battery and received a new Bosch unit (bike was 18 months old). It was a 500w battery and would have cost around £1k to buy!
Not sure why you are buying a FS for mostly road work? I would have suggested a hard tail MTB, which are fine for trails and gravel tracks. If you have a bad back, would you go in the hills and hollows? FS doesn't help back pain! The shop will be happy as they are getting more £££
Also, the new eBikes have a very short crank length of 160 or 165mm; so to limit rider torque and to have greater clearance for rocks etc. I suggest getting them changed for 170 or 172.5 to bring it in line with a non assisted bike. For instance, my Trek Powerfly 7 runs 175mm cranks.
Not sure why you are buying a FS for mostly road work? I would have suggested a hard tail MTB, which are fine for trails and gravel tracks. If you have a bad back, would you go in the hills and hollows? FS doesn't help back pain! The shop will be happy as they are getting more £££
Also, the new eBikes have a very short crank length of 160 or 165mm; so to limit rider torque and to have greater clearance for rocks etc. I suggest getting them changed for 170 or 172.5 to bring it in line with a non assisted bike. For instance, my Trek Powerfly 7 runs 175mm cranks.
I had mine over 40mph on the footpath that follows the track at Spa Francorchamps circuit and it’s been over 30mph plenty of times but needs a bigger front sprocket to make it achievable even more frequently.
I’ve not bothered with any modifications on mine because it’s only really on hills that I need help and the part of Cambridgeshire where I live has plenty of short hills but nothing really savage.
I’ve not bothered with any modifications on mine because it’s only really on hills that I need help and the part of Cambridgeshire where I live has plenty of short hills but nothing really savage.
Correct. I have never tried one. Might have a go once this is all over. In the mean time though I should really dust off my road bike and get out on it....
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I'd be very interested to know how these motors and batteries cope with a wet muddy British winter. When we used to ride at nights in the winter we'd come back absolutely minging and the bikes were as bad, so how would that fit in with all the lecky stuff cause every video I've watched so far has been in bone dry conditions.
Never had a problem in the three years I have owned mine (Bosch CX). They are pretty well protected, the thing you see is the motor cover which gives adequate splash protection and the motor itself has good seals etc. I would assume that others like Shimano (Merida etc), Yamaha (Giant etc) and Brose (Specialized etc) all have good weather protection as well.
As for the Make or Brand, any mainstream brand will be fine but have slightly different aspects that are special to them. For MTB's, Trek are a very relaxed, square geometry making them good for those with lower back pain. Specialized have great frame build quality. Merida are around 10-20% cheaper than most so are good VFM but still German and good quality. Giant make great bikes as do Cube and Scott and Marin and Felt etc etc.
If we use ours in winter we take the batteries and bar mounted units off and clean them after every use then spray some kind of electrical terminal protective spay where needed.
With the Bosch motors you can charge the battery on or off the bike so in summer ours stay on the bikes but given the cost of replacements we look after them a bit more in winter.
With the Bosch motors you can charge the battery on or off the bike so in summer ours stay on the bikes but given the cost of replacements we look after them a bit more in winter.
My bike comes back absolutely plastered in mud and grass etc after a ride in the local forest. I then get the hosepipe out and wash the worst off with the gun thing ( not drowning the motor area ) then get a soft brush on the stubborn stuff. Then rinse it all off. It comes up good as new and working perfectly. Nothing to worry about there.
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