2006 R1200GS Steering Lock Issue - HELP!

dpalmer_2991

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Evening all!

I've looked on google and a few forums and I'm struggling to find an answer to my problem, so I thought I'd join here and see if anyone can help me directly!

Basically I was putting my GS away today, went to engage the steering lock and the key would turn all the way to the lock position, so I jiggled the bars and the key to see if it would turn fully. It didn't, however the steering lock did engage, at which point I couldn't disengage it because the key still wouldn't turn to the lock/unlick position.

After some swearing and head scratching I looked under the barrel and could see the lock pin, so I just reached in and pushed it back, and the bars move freely again. However, now if I move the bars into any position and turn the key even slightly left towards the lock position it'll try to engage the lock.

So my current worry is that the lock may come out while riding which would be less than ideal.

The Key still will not turn fully to the lock/unlock position.

Is it a case of just replacing the lock, is that possible? Or will a strip down and clean perhaps solve the issue?

Any help will be appreciated!!

Cheers, Dan
 
I don't know the answer

But if it was me, I would remove the lock housing and try clenaing it / ACF50ing it and see what happened. That said, I have already drilled the security bolts off, so it wouldn't be hard.

Sounds like the lock itself might be the problem, so you could also squirt some acf50 down the keyhole and see if that helps - it fixed my seat unit lock when that started playing up.

But this is pure speculation and i do not have a good answer
 
Thanks for the reply mate! When you say you had to drill security bolts out, what kind of bolts are thy exactly, can they be removed with the right tool or do they need to be drilled out?

I think I'm going to try and strip it tomorrow and try and figure it out. I don't have any ACF so I've opted to soak it in a load of WD40 for the night, see if it makes any difference. The barrel turns very smooth though from off to on, it even moves smooth to the left, it just doesn't move all the way as if something is obstructing it.
 
I've just looked it up and it seems like quite a ball ache of a job. It would appear I will need to remove the bars so I can remove the triple top clamp, to then flip that over and drill the bolts out...

Does that sound about right?
 
dpalmer_2991 said:
I've just looked it up and it seems like quite a ball ache of a job. It would appear I will need to remove the bars so I can remove the triple top clamp, to then flip that over and drill the bolts out...

Does that sound about right?
Click to expand...

Nope it does not

what you are proposing to do is in the picture below

I'll try to keep it simple

You put the key into the lock barrel which sits in part 1

Part 6 which sits over and around part 1 is the ring antenna which reads the key and checks the code in the key is what it's expecting

(if good, it tells the electronics to activate , if not good it tells the electronics not to activate)

when you turn the key the lock barrel & a small lug on the bottom of the barrel turns as well

this lug engages with part 2

Part 2 on the bottom, is the actual ignition switch, a simple box with a couple of microswitches in it,

This can fail, the result being is the bike either will not start, or you can take the key out of the ignition, and the bike still runs :eek

often stripping apart cleaning and reassembling can suffice.

To remove the ring antenna or lock barrell, you need to remove part 6

to do this you need to remove screws 3 (x2)

you can do this from working inside the wheelarch and drilling off the heads,

(they are security screws so will not unscrew with conventional tooling)

The correct method if i recall is to drill the tops of the screws of with a 14mm drill, and then remove the whole assembly 1

The two stubs of screws 3 can then be removed with a stud extractor

you need to put new screws in when you replace the unit

Its time consuming, fiddly, and frustrating but is the only way afaik , you cant do it your way, as the unit is screwed in for security

reasons

You can buy a replcement lock cylinder about £40 or so

you will need to shim it to match your key

HTH

Screws 8 & 9 are T6 & T8 i think, very tiny.

I have a kit with part 6, part 2 & 2x part 3 in it if you need it. do a search in the for sale section
 

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No need to feck about drilling out the security screws. With a 4mm still bit drill a hole 4-5mm deep and hit in a torq bit then unscrew like a normal bolt ( takes 2 mins), you can even re-use them if you want or just replace with hex head bolts.
 
Steptoe said:
No need to feck about drilling out the security screws. With a 4mm still bit drill a hole 4-5mm deep and hit in a torq bit then unscrew like a normal bolt ( takes 2 mins), you can even re-use them if you want or just replace with hex head bolts.
Click to expand...

I'll bow to your experience on that one Steptoe :), i managed to avoid having to remove the screws when i had my DWA error :thumb
 
So just so I fully understand what you're saying Steptoe, you drill a 4mm hole through the security screws, I assume up through the wheel arch area, them hammer in a torx bit, and that's enough to grip it and unscrew them?

Thanks everyone for their replies also!
 
er is it just me but why would you use acf 50 as a lubricant?
 
dpalmer_2991 said:
So just so I fully understand what you're saying Steptoe, you drill a 4mm hole through the security screws, I assume up through the wheel arch area, them hammer in a torx bit, and that's enough to grip it and unscrew them?

Thanks everyone for their replies also!
Click to expand...

The security-screws that hold the ring antenna have pilot holes already drilled to help you when the time comes to drill the heads off. I think Steppers idea is great, just enlarge the pilot hole and whack a torx bit in. Still might have to tip over the top yoke or maybe use a flexy expension jobbie to get the drill into the right spot.
 

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IF you can get a tin of Fuchs Silkopen or any other Graphite penetrating spray you can try flooding the lock with that and the pin too

We used to get a few early ones in the workshop at the dealers with sticky ignition/steering locks and that was the approved remedy by my foreman of 25 years with the Dealership :rob We never had any issues

dpalmer_2991 said:
So just so I fully understand what you're saying Steptoe, you drill a 4mm hole through the security screws, I assume up through the wheel arch area, them hammer in a torx bit, and that's enough to grip it and unscrew them?

Thanks everyone for their replies also!
Click to expand...

Yup basically get yourself access to the screws and hammer in a torx bit and they usually come out fairly easily

I usually replace them with allen head bolts and just a droplet of loctite when I refit them
 
Graphite powder i think is what locksmiths use?

Sent from my SM-A202F using Tapatalk
 
ACF50 in case corrosion. Works as lube too

Drilling out bolts was straightforward. However you remove them (if indeed you need to) make sure you put an old towel or something around the shock to catch metal fragmetns that might go there or into brakes etc. I think i had to remove nose fairing to get easy access. Was a few mins to do all the drilling, just a faff setting it up.

You can try cleaning microswitch, but if the problem is the steer lock itself, that is mechanical and is in the lock housing
 
I wasn't going to strip my bike today, but I went out to see if the WD40 had done anything over night, it hadn't. But while I was there I had a butchers at the bolts that need drilling out, lucky for me they've been out before and they were just allen bolts!!

So I decided to strip it down after all. 10 minutes and it's resolved.

A piece of the metal that holds the the locking pin in has unfortunately broke off, so the pin was being pushed out by the key, but it wasn't being gripped properly, thus not being able to retract on the key. I've just removed the pin completely because when I removed the whole unit the pin just fell out. So it could have quite easily come out while riding. So I'm glad I took it apart and removed it!!

I'll try and get hold of a graphite based lubricant to put into the barrel now because I've probably washed the lubricant out now because of all the WD40!

Anyway, thanks everyone for you help!!

Dan
 
Great that you got it sorted and that you thought to fix before anything dangerous happened. I wonder how to fix. Perhaps a new unit needed for steer lock to work again?
 
Yeah it will have to be a new unit, which I believe are quite pricey but I've not looked into one yet. The piece that had broke was still inside and there's no real way to fix mine, nevermind, at least it's safe now!
 
if the lock pin is falling in to place that's ultra dangerous...

you may think you'll not use full lock or you'll just be going slow and can stop. No 100% you'll fall on the floor (probably in a nasty manner as will go the opposite way you want, so will surprise you).
Different bike, but it happened the same way to my brother. Either something is detached (broken) or a spring holding it up broke. Either way sounds nasty it seems to have failed dangerous. Please left us know what you find
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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