There's a huge thread on ADV rider forum about the Elefant ..something like 50 pages long ..might find some useful hints n tips on it 
Cagiva Elefant 900ie
- Thread starter peepingtom
- Start date
cheers ill seat it out if I canThere's a huge thread on ADV rider forum about the Elefant ..something like 50 pages long ..might find some useful hints n tips on it
Glad you got the belts sorted.
Did you have a good look at the idlers? They should spin with no notchy-ness if they're still in good nick. But they do seem to have relatively short lives.
That method of painting the pulley and the belt works brilliantly and gives you real confidence that you haven't cocked the valve timing up. Good work.
Did you have a good look at the idlers? They should spin with no notchy-ness if they're still in good nick. But they do seem to have relatively short lives.
That method of painting the pulley and the belt works brilliantly and gives you real confidence that you haven't cocked the valve timing up. Good work.
Thanks yes the idlers and main rollers spin fine though because they are a bit rusty (I have sanded them smooth) I may replace them some day. They’re not a priority right now though. Yes I could the marking of the belts and cams a great easy way to do them . Some of the videos were very confusing telling of compression stoke , 270 degrees , turning an extra 1/4 turn etc. this is simple and works fine.
These are the flanges on the cams that I took off
Attachments
Thank for this
Many years ago i had a large belt driven engine, that had flanges on the pulleys .. (Rotax 447 & fan hub)
first outing in anger i lost all power after about 10 minutes, the D section belt had tracked back on the pulley, and climbed over the flange where it exerted enough
pressure to pop the flange off, and carried on walking off the edge of the pulley.
I managed to recover the flange, and it was spot welded back in place. it never came off again lol
Although i spent a weekend ensuring the top and bottom pulley alignment was spot on
Not to be picky or anything, but are you just fitting belts to start it and see how it runs? Because that engine looks like a good dose of TLC wouldn’t do any harm.
yes that was the idea check it runs then decide what to do. now I know it runs and sound ok Im still not sure I fancy an engine out full build but we shall see . my mind changes more than the wind.
the bike really needs it but im half tempted have it scruffy but useable. but I like the idea of it powder coated or stove enamelled with the engine freshly painted. ill decide soon . exhaust is off nothing seized so far
what do you all prefer powder coating or stove enamelling for frame and parts ?
Blast the frame
Paint properly in 2 pack
Powder coat chips and puts a coat on too thick so when you screw a fixing in, it can chip
Water can then get underneath
Factory would just paint it
Find a friendly car spray shop - I have one locally (he rides bikes) and does my stuff in 2 pack - far superior and true to original form
That really is a bit of urban myth
Powder chips less than ANY other surface treatment, that is why it is the industrial surface treatment of choice for industrial products because it is LESS vulnerable to damage than other paint finishes
2 pack polyurethane paint was developed for parts/places/components not suitable for dry powder finishing
Thickness:- powder coat 50-80 microns, 2pack 40-80 microns, Take your pick as to which you prefer everybody has their preference but to tell everyone else powder coat "is TOO thick" is just rubbish it is almost exactly the same as 2 pack. However Plastic coating is 210-297 microns,
Water getting in underneath and lifting off great sheets of the coating? that is NOT powder coat PAINT which is thermoset; that IS THEROPLASTIC (which is different) plastic, basic spray on heat melt and let harden eg a plastic coat on the surface NOT at all the same thing as thermoset paint, or dip into already melted liquid. IT was the sort of thing you got on school chairs and tables, cheap furniture, and is WAY WAY thicker than a normal paint finish.
Water no more gets under powder applied thermoset paint that it does 2 pack,
And why is a modern 2 pack Polyurethane paint any more true to the original form than Dry applied paint?
They are both paint, both modern, both plastic based, neither anything like the original and both look the same when finished?
, I still prefer proper paint
I was nodding my head in agreement with you till Bowser came along with his microns
Well thanks that was a good read
If I do do a full stip it’s going to be powder , I remember many years (decades
) ago I got my aprilia Tuareg frame stove enameled and really liked it but ready today I see that it’s not as tough as powder coating.Still undecided on what to do I’ve taken the brakes and exhaust off and no snapped studs so that’s always good.
I was nodding my head in agreement with you till Bowser came along with his microns
Well thanks that was a good read
If I do do a full stip it’s going to be powder , I remember many years (decades
Still undecided on what to do I’ve taken the brakes and exhaust off and no snapped studs so that’s always good.
One caveat
As the frame is silver, getting a good finish won’t be the same as powder coating a black frame
Silver shows up every imperfection in the surface prep, whereas black hides it
I would do a test area with a silver rattle can, after stripping and refinishing the frame area to see what silver 2 pack looks like
I have done many bike restorations a good few years ago and silver frames are hard to get right, hence my suggestion to get a car place to do it an oven after blasting as you might incur some extra prep (filling & smoothing - think car wing) before final painting on any pock marked (by rust) areas - a simple blast and powder coat won’t work on a silver framed bike
Any old fool can powder coat a black frame and get it to look ok, silver is another ball game altogether
Whilst I don’t disagree with Bowser - but having been there, silver painted metal cycle parts are harder to get ‘correct’
As we all know, re- finishing one part tends to start a ripple effect and you won't be happy until the entire bike's done.
A nice thing about the Eles is that their bodywork covers up vast amounts of what's underneath, so they can appear to be pretty decent, even when they aren't.
You say you're now confident the engine's ok, I'd be tempted to possibly do the fuse box mod, just to be sure, then ride it and enjoy it while you decide whether you want to jump in with both feet and commit to a full restoration.
However, your bike, your decision, just enjoy it either way.
A nice thing about the Eles is that their bodywork covers up vast amounts of what's underneath, so they can appear to be pretty decent, even when they aren't.
You say you're now confident the engine's ok, I'd be tempted to possibly do the fuse box mod, just to be sure, then ride it and enjoy it while you decide whether you want to jump in with both feet and commit to a full restoration.
However, your bike, your decision, just enjoy it either way.
I was nodding my head in agreement with you till Bowser came along with his microns
Well thanks that was a good read
If I do do a full stip it’s going to be powder , I remember many years (decades
Still undecided on what to do I’ve taken the brakes and exhaust off and no snapped studs so that’s always good.
Whatever you end up doing, make sure you stick a load of pictures up on here.
I like Elefants.
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I’m with Paul
Get the mechanicals sorted and the cosmetics can follow as and when - I like ‘tatty/patina but sound’ bikes (just like my old Guzzi)
Your bike though, your choice!
Andres
Oh I see I didn’t realize that though to be honest I’m very far from being a perfectionist I’m probably the polar opposite to MikeP
I’m certainly not going to bodge anything but I’m no bean counter
Yes once you get the silver or black rattle can out it’s going to make everything thing else appear worse. What’s the fuse box mod ? Do you have a link please
Whatever you end up doing, make sure you stick a load of pictures up on here.
I like Elefants.
I can do some more pics if you like elefants with no cloths on
as Paul says the body work covers a lot up I’m with Paul
Get the mechanicals sorted and the cosmetics can follow as and when - I like ‘tatty/patina but sound’ bikes (just like my old Guzzi)
Your bike though, your choice!
Andres
I’m pretty sure I’ll be going down this route more of a rolling restoration do bits as and when
What’s the fuse box mod ? Do you have a link please
There are stories about the fuse boxes overheating. They might be a cheap part - not sure whether its the contacts that give the problem, or something else. As they get older and more corroded, and maybe as accessories are added, they seem to be more prone to failing.
Here's a link - this is another Ducati but the issue sounds like the same thing: https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/threads/wierd-fuse-metling-issue.23420/
It's a long time since I last read up about this, but I think people had success replacing them with a range of alternative automotive items.
