Oil leak 100gs pd

Mark_S · May 3, 2020

Morning all,

I have 100gs pd that has recently had an engine rebuild, approx 10k ago. Oil is getting / seeping out from the rearmost pushrod tub oil 'seal' on the bikes LHS. The seal is the right way up (line is lower most) and appears to be in good condition. There is a wee puddle after every ride, the leak rate is not high, but it's concerning given the sump capacity.

Does anyone have any advice before I pull the barrel off and change the seal
Tia

Mark
:beerjug:

Kenny · May 3, 2020

It looks like you will have to pull that side and only use genuine pushrod oil seal rubbers. Bummer.

DrFarkoff · May 3, 2020

Mark_S said:
Does anyone have any advice before I pull the barrel off and change the seal

Just make sure that the Engine is at TDC and Only slacken and remove the sparkplug and the nuts over the rocker arm pillars (Pull the pushods too and keep them organised Front and Rear)

And with the carb and exhaust set aside you can just slip the barrel and head outward about 2 inches that will allow you in

If your O rings are damaged and the barrel has to come off?

Then just undo the circlip on the gudgeon pin and heat the piston a bit and push the pin out and CATCH the conrod!!!!

so you have piston barrel and head all in one bit

Yes Genuine is the way to go with those Whatever the knock off ones are made from are not so durable!

I always use a smear of Rubber grease around the cylinder base and o rings and the pushrod seals to prevent them binding or catching on bare metal

Mark_S · May 3, 2020

Top stuff Kenny and Dr F, thanks.
I use motobins for spares, will check their site for genuine kit.
Strange they have started leaking after such a short time.

kirby morgan · May 3, 2020

Dont buy the seals from anywhere but BMW as they will leak. As said above by the more knowledgeable.
I bought genuine BMW push rod seals from dealer and no leaks. Theres previous threads explaining useless patern parts.

Steptoe · May 3, 2020

Seeing as it was rebuilt only 10k miles ago try tapping the seal back into place.

A length of plumbing tube with a section of end cut off at an angle makes the perfect tool.

F8GS · May 3, 2020

Make sure the tubes are not pressed too deep into the cylinder. There should be a small gap, they should not be flush with the top of the recess.

I have experienced the same issue. If they are pressed in too deep they will not put enough pressure on the push rod seals and they will start to weep.

Use OEM seals always . Good luck.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mark_S · May 4, 2020

thanks for the advice gents, i just have to wait for the genuine seals to pitch up now.

Mark_S · May 17, 2020

OK the seals (genuine bmw from Germany) are fitted. In doing so I dropped the inlet rocker arm and some roller bearing pins fell out. Not good, simple jobs grow legs. Rather than scab the bearing together, I need to replace the roller bearing. Dirt ingress, seized baring valve and piston contact etc.
Question is how do you change these barings?
All help greatfilly received.
Thanks
Mark

Bin Ridin · May 17, 2020

The roller bearing pins are loose in a cage pressed in to the rocker arm. If you have all the pins, you can clean them and reassemble using grease to keep the pins in place while inserting the pivot pin.

Vulpine2 · May 17, 2020

Wish I'd seen the advice re genuine seals before I bought mine from Motoworks... Not fitted yet but I'm guessing they are NOT the genuine article? Why buy from Germnay though - not in stock at UK BMW dealers or is there a price advantage? Thanks, Rob

Mark_S · May 17, 2020

Thanks bin riding, cleaning them may be the preferred option.
Vulpine2, no special reason to go to Germany for the parts, it was just the first site to respond. they replied promptly with good service

Oil leak 100gs pd

Mark_S

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Kenny

Trustworthy Scouser AND

DrFarkoff

Grumpy Ole Git!!!

Mark_S

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kirby morgan

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Steptoe

What a waste.

F8GS

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Mark_S

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Mark_S

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Bin Ridin

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Vulpine2

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Mark_S

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