Yup post it up
I no longer have my hexhead, but would be very interested to see how you finished the last piece of the puzzle
as i suspect would many others
Firstly, apologies for the delay in posting this, but here is my take on removing the ABS unit (and module) from my own 2005 R1200GS. This is not a guide as such just a detail of what I have done to my own bike.
So, a quick backstory, I saw a low mileage, very nice condition BUT VERY CHEAP GS for sale earlier this year, further investigation revealed it was cheap due to it having an ABS fault. I am a Diagnostic Engineer for a well-known car manufacturer so figured I should be able to fix it myself and that the bike was worth a risk. So, I ordered the bike without seeing it and had it delivered.
My original intentions were to strip and attempt to repair the ABS pump, but the more I looked into it and found out the multitude of problems these units can have the more I edged towards removing the servo and ABS all together.
I planned to carry out the ABS pump removal as many others have and to leave the control module on the bike to keep the speedo operating, just blanking out the warning lights.
For the front brake hydraulics, I decided not to fit a fluid loop to the front brake manifold as most do. Instead opting for a Goodrich build-a-hose between the Front brake master cylinder and the bottom fork bridge clamp, I used a P-clip to secure the hose at the attachment point usually used by the manifold, which gave me a very nice hose routing. (Hopefully a picture of this is attached?)
For the rear brake hydraulics, I opted to order an original rigid hose for a NON-ABS bike from
motorworks for ease and a factory look finish.
The brakes bled out easily and work very well indeed.
I then went about blanking the warning lights in the instrument cluster, however I soon realised that I would not be happy with this solution.
The reason for this was because the red LED’s for the warning triangle light take precedence over the yellow ones and due to the ABS fault on my bike the RED warning triangle was constantly illuminated, meaning I would never see the yellow triangle for faults such as bulbs or fuel level.
I then set about acquiring the wiring diagrams for both ABS and NON-ABS variants, which confirmed what I had read around the speedo being controlled by the ZFE module on NON-ABS bikes. It appeared, all that was required was to connect the rear wheel speed sensor to the ZFE and programme the bikes modules for NON-ABS. Simple!
The details of this are as below, I’ll start from the point I had already removed the ABS PUMP and module. With regards to the programming I purchased the Motoscan app and a decent Bluetooth OBD dongle with an adaptor lead, I have heard very mixed reviews about the Motoscan software, but for me it worked perfectly.
The first thing I did was to disassemble the ZFE module multiplug to identify the pin types I required for the new connections (I have managed to source the correct pins and have some spares, so if anybody requires some let me know) (picture of pins should be attached?).
Once I had the pins the wiring modification was very straight forward.
Firstly, I crimped 2 pins to around 800mm of 0.5mm[SUP]2[/SUP] wire each. I then fitted the pins to the ZFE module multiplug. One to PIN 13 and the other to PIN 51 (these can be identified by small numbers embossed in the plug itself)
I then ran my new wires alongside the original loom down to the vicinity of the ABS module.
Next, I cut the wires that connected the rear wheel speed sensor to the back of the now redundant ABS multiplug (PINS 6 & 8), I did this one at a time so as not to get things muddled up.
The wire that used to connect to pin 6 of the ABS module was soldered to my new wire connected to PIN 13 from the ZFE and insulated with heatshrink. The same was done to connect the second wire (previously to PIN 8 of the ABS module) to my new wire connected to PIN 51 of the ZFE.
This is all of the wiring modifications required and it would have been ample to insulate the old ABS connector and tape/cable tie it away somewhere….. I opted to remove it completely as I never have any intention of returning the bike back to ABS.
I then used the Motoscan app to recode the bike to non ABS. It is important to note that I had to recode the ZFE, ABS, Engine ECU and Instrument cluster, they all had a drop down with ABS fitted YES/NO. I found when I only coded one or two of the modules they resorted back to ABS with the next ignition cycle. I presume they do some kind of “handshake” on boot up and ABS fitted takes precedence.
Once recoded I keyed the bike on and spun the rear wheel and found the speedo to be working as hoped! I was able to un “blank” the warning lights in my instrument cluster and now all of the telltales illuminate and go off again when switching on the ignition just as a NON ABS bike would. I have since also removed the front ABS sensor and sensor ring..... I may remove the ABS disable button one day to totally finish the job!
Apologies for the rambling document and that I didn't take any (useful) pictures at the time.
Hopefully, if you have made it this far, you may have found it interesting/helpful.
If anyone has any questions or are attempting to do the same conversion to their bike and want some advice, let me know.
All the best