the dreaded flashing red brake warning light!!!

fenj66

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2004 gs in devon
bike 2005, 60k miles, abs/servo model

hi all, today riding to work, i had the red warning triangle and flashing red brake warning lights come on.
it appears the rear brake has lost power and is almost useless. the front however, is still working fine and the servo can be heard whining away when used. but not for the back brake.
both brake lights work fine as does the speedo.
having read through many posts on the subject, im assuming that the servo has finally had its day. but ive a few questions.
are there two servos? one for front and one for back brake? if only one, i wonder why it still works fine on the front.
how does the servo know when to start working? is there a pressure sensor from each brake circuit? could this be the cause?
ive heard of a servosectomy kit from motorworks, and am quite happy to have a go myself to fit it. but i cant find a kit on their website. does anybody know of a ready made kit of parts?

any other ideas and help would be greatly appreciated.

cheers
 
You haven’t said if you have checked for oil or brake fluid loss or leak onto disc or pads, damaged/worn pads or seized calliper, if not I would do that first, especially if servO seems ok for front.

Al
 
no signs of leakage anywhere, both master cylinders full. all pads renewed a month ago to pass mot with new rear disc also. no signs of callipers sticking. :thumb
 
Sit down before we tell you the costs ;)

if it is the abs pumpy module thingamyjig

and it is defective, A new replacement unit is £800 and £400 for the dealer to fit


ypu may be able to get it rebuilt for anywhere between £300-£600

or you can servoectomise (remove the servo ) for about £30 & an afternoon of your own time and some parts

You get normal unlinked no servo non abs brakes, but as many say you wont notice the change
 
If the brake pedal switch is damaged or if a likkle stone gets in the area, it could give such a result. You could try pressing down the brake pedal and listening for the click of the switch activating....
 
Where are you in Devon? The guy I take mine to in Exmouth is pretty good.

Al.
 
Where are you in Devon? The guy I take mine to in Exmouth is pretty good.

Al.

im in plymouth Al. i'm more thinking of having a go fixing it myself with help from here of course! :D


the rear brake pedal switch is clicking normally and operating the brake light ok.

i'm currently looking at just ditching the servo system rather than repair. and fitting the brake line bypasses, but not sure about the choices.
after a bit more research, motorworks offer a simple pipe loop for the front circuit. and a more expensive part with 3 inlets that doesnt make any sense to me?

for the rear circuit, im not quite sure which part i need, the link pipe they have appears to be be a simple push fit on one end?? that cant be right can it?

:nenau
 
im in plymouth Al. i'm more thinking of having a go fixing it myself with help from here of course! :D


the rear brake pedal switch is clicking normally and operating the brake light ok.

i'm currently looking at just ditching the servo system rather than repair. and fitting the brake line bypasses, but not sure about the choices.
after a bit more research, motorworks offer a simple pipe loop for the front circuit. and a more expensive part with 3 inlets that doesnt make any sense to me?

for the rear circuit, im not quite sure which part i need, the link pipe they have appears to be be a simple push fit on one end?? that cant be right can it?

:nenau

Prettysure if you do a search on here , you will find a linked guide on how to do it, (you need to keep the electrics box from the servo unit

i think its just the C shaped link pipe you need , mine was already done i just had to tweak the kombi lights
 
ah well, i bit the bullet and spent most of yesterday giving my bike a servosectamy!!

all front panels and tank removed to give access to the abs unit. all i could do to test it in situ was give the unit a bash with a hammer in the hope that might free up a stuck solenoid or similar on the rear circuit. - no luck, so i decided it had to all come off.

i own one of those mytyvac brake bleeders, so vacuumed out the 4 brake circuits to help minimise fluid loss in disassembly. i now understand about the push fit brake lines as thats how there all attached to the abs unit, ive never seen that before, but very easy to remove! and just a case of unfurling the lines from the frame of the bike with a bit of twisting and bending, but they wont be needed again.

removing the whole abs unit itself was the hardest job, 3 tricky bolts to remove from below the unit, unplug the multi connector and it lifts away. on my garage workbench i had to hacksaw cuts in the security bolts so i could use a flat blade screwdriver to separate the electronics box. unplug the electrical connectors from inside, seal up the box with a plastic cover cut to fit, and gaffer tape the whole thing to hopefully, make it watertight! refit to bike and plug back in.

a friend had kindly lent me a home brake flaring kit and a small length of copper pipe. so by reusing the original screw fittings (one is thicker than the other for some reason?) to the front brake pipe multi connector under the headlight, off side. i made my own copy of the circular part that motorworks sell for £12. i just formed the bend around a large socket in a vice. re bled front brakes and done.

for the rear, i just undid the banjo bolt of the flexible brake hose at the rear connector, near gearbox output shaft. and flexed it around to fit directly onto the master cylinder output with just 2 new copper sealing washers. re bled brake and done. this saves around £27 for the piece of pipe from motorworks.

removed clocks from bike, separated the front cover, and stuffed some black foam into the appropriate holes to hide the flashing red lights. done.

refit tank and panels, taken for a test ride, very strange eerie silence from brakes, just great stopping power, just as good as with the servo, but without the constant whine! i will keep a close check on my fittings for any signs of leaks.
but for the total cost of 2 penny washers, i hope ive given my bike many more years riding enjoyment.

a big thank you to all the previous posts on this subject which gave me inspiration and confidence to do this job.
its worth spending £40 for the 2 link pipes if your not that confident in your own plumbing work, but if you can bleed brakes and are handy with a spanner its actually fairly straight forward.

happy riding!
 
Thanks for posting this. Mine is a 2007 with only 11k miles, and I expect to be doing this job myself at some point.
 
Good work @fen66

I bought a GS with servo issues earlier this year and did the same to mine.

I went one step further and removed the ABS module as well, a simple wiring modification (so the speedo works) and a quick reprogram (to turn the ABS light off)

If you (or anyone else for that matter) are interested in the ins and outs of it. I'll happily explain how/why to do it.



Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
 
Good work @fen66

I bought a GS with servo issues earlier this year and did the same to mine.

I went one step further and removed the ABS module as well, a simple wiring modification (so the speedo works) and a quick reprogram (to turn the ABS light off)

If you (or anyone else for that matter) are interested in the ins and outs of it. I'll happily explain how/why to do it.



Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

Yup post it up ;)

I no longer have my hexhead, but would be very interested to see how you finished the last piece of the puzzle

as i suspect would many others :thumb2
 
Good work @fen66

I bought a GS with servo issues earlier this year and did the same to mine.

I went one step further and removed the ABS module as well, a simple wiring modification (so the speedo works) and a quick reprogram (to turn the ABS light off)

If you (or anyone else for that matter) are interested in the ins and outs of it. I'll happily explain how/why to do it.



Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
Yes, please share. I suspect after the lack of use with this long lock down my old 70k 2005 Servo/ABS system won't be long for the knackers yard. I'd like to do as neat and tidy job as possible.

Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk
 
Yup post it up ;)

I no longer have my hexhead, but would be very interested to see how you finished the last piece of the puzzle

as i suspect would many others :thumb2

Firstly, apologies for the delay in posting this, but here is my take on removing the ABS unit (and module) from my own 2005 R1200GS. This is not a guide as such just a detail of what I have done to my own bike.

So, a quick backstory, I saw a low mileage, very nice condition BUT VERY CHEAP GS for sale earlier this year, further investigation revealed it was cheap due to it having an ABS fault. I am a Diagnostic Engineer for a well-known car manufacturer so figured I should be able to fix it myself and that the bike was worth a risk. So, I ordered the bike without seeing it and had it delivered.

My original intentions were to strip and attempt to repair the ABS pump, but the more I looked into it and found out the multitude of problems these units can have the more I edged towards removing the servo and ABS all together.

I planned to carry out the ABS pump removal as many others have and to leave the control module on the bike to keep the speedo operating, just blanking out the warning lights.

For the front brake hydraulics, I decided not to fit a fluid loop to the front brake manifold as most do. Instead opting for a Goodrich build-a-hose between the Front brake master cylinder and the bottom fork bridge clamp, I used a P-clip to secure the hose at the attachment point usually used by the manifold, which gave me a very nice hose routing. (Hopefully a picture of this is attached?)

For the rear brake hydraulics, I opted to order an original rigid hose for a NON-ABS bike from motorworks for ease and a factory look finish.

The brakes bled out easily and work very well indeed.

I then went about blanking the warning lights in the instrument cluster, however I soon realised that I would not be happy with this solution.

The reason for this was because the red LED’s for the warning triangle light take precedence over the yellow ones and due to the ABS fault on my bike the RED warning triangle was constantly illuminated, meaning I would never see the yellow triangle for faults such as bulbs or fuel level.

I then set about acquiring the wiring diagrams for both ABS and NON-ABS variants, which confirmed what I had read around the speedo being controlled by the ZFE module on NON-ABS bikes. It appeared, all that was required was to connect the rear wheel speed sensor to the ZFE and programme the bikes modules for NON-ABS. Simple!

The details of this are as below, I’ll start from the point I had already removed the ABS PUMP and module. With regards to the programming I purchased the Motoscan app and a decent Bluetooth OBD dongle with an adaptor lead, I have heard very mixed reviews about the Motoscan software, but for me it worked perfectly.

The first thing I did was to disassemble the ZFE module multiplug to identify the pin types I required for the new connections (I have managed to source the correct pins and have some spares, so if anybody requires some let me know) (picture of pins should be attached?).

Once I had the pins the wiring modification was very straight forward.

Firstly, I crimped 2 pins to around 800mm of 0.5mm[SUP]2[/SUP] wire each. I then fitted the pins to the ZFE module multiplug. One to PIN 13 and the other to PIN 51 (these can be identified by small numbers embossed in the plug itself)

I then ran my new wires alongside the original loom down to the vicinity of the ABS module.

Next, I cut the wires that connected the rear wheel speed sensor to the back of the now redundant ABS multiplug (PINS 6 & 8), I did this one at a time so as not to get things muddled up.
The wire that used to connect to pin 6 of the ABS module was soldered to my new wire connected to PIN 13 from the ZFE and insulated with heatshrink. The same was done to connect the second wire (previously to PIN 8 of the ABS module) to my new wire connected to PIN 51 of the ZFE.

This is all of the wiring modifications required and it would have been ample to insulate the old ABS connector and tape/cable tie it away somewhere….. I opted to remove it completely as I never have any intention of returning the bike back to ABS.

I then used the Motoscan app to recode the bike to non ABS. It is important to note that I had to recode the ZFE, ABS, Engine ECU and Instrument cluster, they all had a drop down with ABS fitted YES/NO. I found when I only coded one or two of the modules they resorted back to ABS with the next ignition cycle. I presume they do some kind of “handshake” on boot up and ABS fitted takes precedence.

Once recoded I keyed the bike on and spun the rear wheel and found the speedo to be working as hoped! I was able to un “blank” the warning lights in my instrument cluster and now all of the telltales illuminate and go off again when switching on the ignition just as a NON ABS bike would. I have since also removed the front ABS sensor and sensor ring..... I may remove the ABS disable button one day to totally finish the job!

Apologies for the rambling document and that I didn't take any (useful) pictures at the time.

Hopefully, if you have made it this far, you may have found it interesting/helpful.

If anyone has any questions or are attempting to do the same conversion to their bike and want some advice, let me know.

All the best
 

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Thanks for that, nice and clear info. Sounds very doable.
Would like a couple of those pins if possible please.

Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk
 
Thanks for that, nice and clear info. Sounds very doable.
Would like a couple of those pins if possible please.

Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk
No problem, send me a pm with your address and I'll pop some in the post

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
 


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