660 Power lead types

King Rat

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I got a 660 off a chap on here, a couple of years ago now (thinking about it, probaby 4, because the last 3 have disappeared). It was in a Touratech mount, silver frame with a spring loaded 'lid that telescopes upwards to permit removal of the screen, after you press the release button. It is on my X Country.

For the old nail X Challenge I wanted a mounting so I could use the same screen uniit... I bought a Touratech lockable mount that was for the 660. Again off a chap on here. It came and is all there and everything, but it is different. My other one I have to press the 'on' button for on/off, which is fine, in fact I quite like it, it is simpler and there is just the power lead to plug into the under seat electric socket. This 'new' one has a very complicated wiring setup that involves 4 different wires coming out of a sealed rubber block that takes it all to the mounting unit. I have asked him, but he just unwrapped it from his F800GS and sent it as was. I have cleaned all the wires and the unit and everything, but I don't know how to plug it in. There is no straightforward plug into the cigarette lighter socket wire - he said it was wired so it came on and off with the ignition key, other than that he couldn't help.

I can solder a cigarette socket plug on if I knew which wires to use. Can anyone help at all please? As in how do I recognise what wires I need? :nenau
 
The four leads coming out of the black rubber block are 1 female mini usb, 1 3.5mm stereo jack socket, 1 2.5mm mono jack socket and the one that you should be using is the one thats left, it will just have two wires one black (earth) and one red (positive) they are your feed and earth to a fused switched feed,
 
Hmmm... Thank you both. I shall look at it for a few more days before plucking up the courage to try chopping it. I only need about 12" of power lead! The cigarette socket is on the dash.
 
you never said you wanted just 12 inches of lead, so what you really want to do then is cut the thick cable twelve inches away from the unit.and do away with the othe 4 cables is this correct.
 
you never said you wanted just 12 inches of lead, so what you really want to do then is cut the thick cable twelve inches away from the unit.and do away with the othe 4 cables is this correct.

Sorry Lee, for the slow reply. I have been changing the oil and filter... more fun and games. :D :blast My ears are reducing to normal size and my black eye is fading, but at least the drive won't go rusty. :D

I have been looking at how to hide all the cabling if I saved it and wrapped it up.... it is going to be awkward and a mess. I might as well make it a dedicated mount for this bike, so yes, if I can recognise which two lines are for the power supply and back, then yes I can chop it, shrink tube the ends, shrink tube the main cover and solder a plug on the end..... there are TWO sets of red and black though, discovering which is which is going to be the fun bit, especially for a simpleton like me. :thumb

I have read the page Wapping sent, it shows the red wire is wrapped up in foil, to protect from interference I suppose, so I shall try to keep as much foil as possible and wrap it back around inside the shrink tube. I shall have a nother read of it, maybe on a couple of readings it will come clear.
 
Here is the manual explaining what all the wires are for. From there, with Wapping's link, it should be straightforward to work out what to do. The red wire should go to a switched live.

Now that fewer folk are using wired intercoms, such complicated mounts have died out.

It is interesting that the old Autocoms being ditched on eBay in favour of BT headsets are being snapped by others who know how good they are.
 
Here is the manual explaining what all the wires are for. From there, with Wapping's link, it should be straightforward to work out what to do. The red wire should go to a switched live.

Now that fewer folk are using wired intercoms, such complicated mounts have died out.

It is interesting that the old Autocoms being ditched on eBay in favour of BT headsets are being snapped by others who know how good they are.

I cannot stand any kind of electronics in my helmet whatsoever. I had one - I very quickly realised it was no different to a driver talking on the phone while driving... they should be made illegal and anyone with one should be flogged, before being burned with pitchforks, then dunked in acid.

As for wires being easy - it is simpler to unknit spaghetti. I don't want a switch, the machine has a switch, I will use that. Why do I need a fuse? It only has 12v going from the plug to the mount. The other one has never had a fuse, it stays plugged in all the time, even with no screen installed and just the cover on. I did take it out once, the plug melted where it fell aginst the exhaust. Lesson learned, plug it in and leave well alone!
 
Fingers crossed..taking the plunge now. I have been waiting for Touratech to send me the replacement mounting bolts, ordered back in April or May... still not arrived. Robbing scrotes. So Iwent down the road to the local fastner shop and bought some M4 machine screws, washers, nuts and nyloc nuts... all mounted on the handlebar brace happily. Now to customise the cable....
 


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