Corona Virus Side Effect

Jockser · May 12, 2020

Nice work byron :bow

byron said:
then I spent a few hours sanding the fins to reveal the aluminium

Now why didn’t I think of that :blast

A fuel spill has fecked up the black paint on one cover & I’d like to redo it but the silver fins were bothering me. Funny how it’s sometimes the obvious things

One question, what black paint did you use ? Is it just a rattle can or something more sophisticated ?

ShakeyBMW · May 13, 2020

Being a higgerant LC owner I’m intrigued by the many references I see to the “bean can”. Is this the distributor? Pre dating the hall effect sensor?

tuftywhite · May 13, 2020

ShakeyBMW said:
Being a higgerant LC owner I’m intrigued by the many references I see to the “bean can”. Is this the distributor? Pre dating the hall effect sensor?

Someone proper will correct me in a minute, but I think it's the mechanical timing advancing thingy. Sorry if I've got too technical. :hide

These bikes will have electronic ignition, so no distributor, but the advancing is done by a weighted spinning thing moving up and down.

I ought to know more as I own one, possibly two bean cans, (and fully electronic one).

Gelandestrasse · May 13, 2020

ShakeyBMW said:
Being a higgerant LC owner I’m intrigued by the many references I see to the “bean can”. Is this the distributor? Pre dating the hall effect sensor?

Bean cans are the 'points' ie are the sensor that triggers the sparking circuits. Early Bean cans (79-80) had mechanical points (needed a cam) and an advance-retard mechanism; later (and this one) are hall-effect with an advance-retard mechanism.

They are called bean cans because they are old-hat, ie 'has-beens' :aidan

. The fact they resemble baked bean tins is purely coincidental! :augie

tuftywhite · May 13, 2020

See, I said I didn't know what I was talking about

ShakeyBMW · May 13, 2020

Gelandestrasse said:
Bean cans are the 'points' ie are the sensor that triggers the sparking circuits. Early Bean cans (79-80) had mechanical points (needed a cam) and an advance-retard mechanism; later (and this one) are hall-effect with an advance-retard mechanism.

They are called bean cans because they are old-hat, ie 'has-beens' . The fact they resemble baked bean tins is purely coincidental!

Ta

Posh Pete · May 13, 2020

Jockser said:
Nice work byron

Now why didn’t I think of that
A fuel spill has fecked up the black paint on one cover & I’d like to redo it but the silver fins were bothering me. Funny how it’s sometimes the obvious things

One question, what black paint did you use ? Is it just a rattle can or something more sophisticated ?

I just did the same to one of my tappet covers. I used cheapo garden gate etc spray paint I bought at Lidl iirc? Looks fine. Mind you, it’ll be easier to fix than a tc cover if it doesn’t last!

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byron · May 13, 2020

Posh Pete said:
I just did the same to one of my tappet covers. I used cheapo garden gate etc spray paint I bought at Lidl iirc? Looks fine. Mind you, it’ll be easier to fix than a tc cover if it doesn’t last!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have used heat resistant paint for a barbecue. It's a spray that I bought what at B&Q.

byron · May 13, 2020

Cold morning in the garage

I thought that I would try and finish off the front of the bike. I I started with a aluminium drift and tapped home the crankshaft oil seal. That went in great.
I carefully tried the gasket for size and then refitted it with some sealant. He case was warmed with my industrial hair dryer and the pushed on . There is very little room bet6the frame down tubes. Bolts and nuts were attached and tightened.

byron · May 13, 2020

The bean can was then added with a new o ring and replaced to the mark set before removal. It proved quite tricky to line up the two dog teeth on the bean can with the slots in the cam shaft end . The alternator was then refitted with new brushes and a polish⁵ed rotor. The diode board was attached and all the leads labelled. It looked nice on finishing.

byron · May 13, 2020

A few more pics

Posh Pete · May 14, 2020

All done with the engine in the frame? Hmmm ... I’d consider doing that too but my frame really does need painting / coating.

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gog · May 14, 2020

needs a strip and paint but it’s undamaged

yours if it’s of use. drop me a pm.

gordon

byron · May 14, 2020

Having cleaned all the connections and got the rotor looking great and tested the alternator, rotor and diode board I thought I would ride my luck today and replace all of the 5 oil seals in the gearbox as I am waiting for a new clutch friction plate to arrive.
BIG MISTAKE

byron · May 14, 2020

Gearbox Output Seal

So having read my Clymer last night and looked a various posts online I decided that I would have to bolt the gearbox down near to my vice as the forces involved very big.
So as you can see in the picture I drilled a hole in the chipboard to accommodate the splined shaft a then bolted the gearbox to some 75 x 50 which was in turn screwed to the front face of the bench. The extract tool which came from The BMW Owners Club is a genuine tool and a very serious bit of kit.
So all was assembled and with the aid of a small bit of scaffolding pole in the vice to act as my assistant I attached my 450 mm breaking bar and pulled like hell. To my amazement the nut came free and the I added the output extractor and started again . This time I just kept on turning a bit more and a bit more and a bit more until BANG. It came off with the sound of a rifle.
However suddenly a great deal of satisfaction came over me and the roll of good luck continued. Used my seal extraction tool to remove the old seal and some aluminium bare to tap it home . You can also see the speedometer drive as well as the connector and lock nut which has been removed.

byron · May 14, 2020

With the output seal now done I turned my attention to the input seal. The outer rim proved to be bonded on very tight and I had to use a screwdriver to buckle it and then lever it out with my seal extractor. Out with no damage phew . Drifted it in with some aluminium tube . Two down three to go.

byron · May 14, 2020

The gear lever and the kickstart shaft oil seals were two very different oil seals to replace . The gear lever shaft seal was out in a moment with my seal extractor and then the space cleaned and the new one tapped in with some steel tube. However the seal for the kickstart shaft was so stubborn to remove and I had to crush it carefully with a small screwdriver. Once out the area was cleaned and the new on drifted in easily . Four down and one to go .

byron · May 14, 2020

And finally the clutch push rod oil seal which is only the size of a smartie but incredibly difficult for me to remove it. Eventually I had to crush it with a tiny screwdriver and then put a piece of 8-mm round bar into the shaft and managed to drift it out. I was really panicking.

byron · May 14, 2020

So what on earth could
Possibly go wrong ? Well the large gearbox output seal is in upsidç

byron · May 15, 2020

The BIG MISTAKE

byron said:
So what on earth could
Possibly go wrong ? Well the large gearbox output seal is in upsidç

Here is a photo of the mistake and clearly I feel like a simpleton. In my exuberance of being able to remove the output shaft spider and nut I have put the sealing upside down ,so what do I do now?

Corona Virus Side Effect

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getting away with it so far!

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