DIY ebike

topcat2006

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Has anyone built there own with their existing bike and a kit?

Any tips and recommendations?

Thanks



Oh no, not another signature....
 
Yes, I fitted a Bafang 500W mid drive to my Specialized Rockhopper MTB. No point faffing about with changing to a rear wheel drive unit. Get a 48v system and go for the biggest battery you can afford. Some go for a 1kW drive but I see that as pointless, also be aware that the legal limit is a 250W motor. 25 mile ride is easily achieved with a 14Ah battery.
 
Has anyone built there own with their existing bike and a kit?

Any tips and recommendations?

Thanks



Oh no, not another signature....

Are you looking for a commuter or something more far ranging?
 
Yes, I fitted a Bafang 500W mid drive to my Specialized Rockhopper MTB. No point faffing about with changing to a rear wheel drive unit. Get a 48v system and go for the biggest battery you can afford. Some go for a 1kW drive but I see that as pointless, also be aware that the legal limit is a 250W motor. 25 mile ride is easily achieved with a 14Ah battery.
That's the conclusion I'd come.to.as well. Is the Bafang stuff reliable? What is support like / instructions if needed?

Oh no, not another signature....
 
………. Is the Bafang stuff reliable? What is support like / instructions if needed?

Loads of Bafang spares available and YouTube videos for fitting and it's relatively easy to DIY maintenance.

I'd also recommend dumping the supplied Bafang motor Chainring and fit a Lekkie Bling Ring Chainring instead.

After over 2000 miles with my unit, the internal magnet for pedal assist (PAS magnet Sensor) broke, the replacement cost me £25. Was easy to fit following a YouTube video, which meant removing the motor from the bike to dismantle it. Here's the video I watched to replace the PAS magnet sensor:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9hEUzSa7Er0&t=217s

Be also aware that with an electric motor, stuff on the bike is going to wear out a lot quicker than you would expect, so after 2000 miles I needed a new chain and rear wheel gear cassette.
 
Loads of Bafang spares available and YouTube videos for fitting and it's relatively easy to DIY maintenance.

I'd also recommend dumping the supplied Bafang motor Chainring and fit a Lekkie Bling Ring Chainring instead.

After over 2000 miles with my unit, the internal magnet for pedal assist (PAS magnet Sensor) broke, the replacement cost me £25. Was easy to fit following a YouTube video, which meant removing the motor from the bike to dismantle it. Here's the video I watched to replace the PAS magnet sensor:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9hEUzSa7Er0&t=217s

Be also aware that with an electric motor, stuff on the bike is going to wear out a lot quicker than you would expect, so after 2000 miles I needed a new chain and rear wheel gear cassette.
Brilliant, thank you.

Sent from my SM-T860 using Tapatalk
 
I was thinking this would make a good bike to convert - Any challenges with the frame type you use
 

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Hmm, interesting, and something I’d not thought of, as I’ve given my hybrid bike to my wife, and she struggles with the hills. Roughly how much are we looking at to covert a normal bike to electric then chaps?
 
I was thinking this would make a good bike to convert - Any challenges with the frame type you use

Im loving that stem, given todays preference is for 25/35 mm negative drop. Also Panaracer Fire tyres, I must have done thousands of miles on them, brilliant.
 
I looked at converting a 1995 Marin Hard Tail MTB a while back. Whilst it sounds feasible, in practice there are loads of shortcomings. For instance, my Marin was a Steel framed high end machine built to be as light as possible. Putting significant weight on it would have destroyed to balance of it. I was concluding that a Front Hub, Handle Bar mount battery would be best, but puts loads of weight on the front. You also need a throttle for the motor as it can's sense when you are pedalling so you become the computer - gauging when you need assistance. You can't have it on all the time at full power for instance as it would be weird to ride. Rear hubs are also available, but where do you mount the battery and what about all the wiring to the front and rear? Aftermarket mid drives sound a good idea, but the mounting of them and the integration into the existing drive system on the bike are all a bolt on bodge imo and are prone to fail unless you are willing to do a substantial conversion including welding and metal modifications.

You can't really do this to a premium lightweight cycle as they are designed in geometry and metal terms to be light and agile, not what you want in a ebike. So if you buy a crappy old heavy bike that can take the weight, why would you spend much on the electronics? Then you test ride a £2k ebike which is much better to ride (let alone a £4k one that is superb).

Anyway, I searched out and found a very good secondhand Trek ebike and am chuffed to bits. All my other bikes have been sold.
 
I did it before I got my levo, front hub drive, so not the best for off road, I would definitely go for the bafang mid Drive if I was doing it again, still got it sitting in the shed.

iikmoCv.jpg
 
It caught my eye too....Designed for the cyclist who has bought the wrong sized bike....:D

It’s a large :D

Not sure why I put that on it use to have a short stem (now on my wife’s bike), the original bar and stem is now on my single speed. I think it was due to kids arriving and the bike being used for slow family rides so sit up and beg was better.

Just been into the garage to reminisce
 

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What I cannot get my head around is going from three chainrings at the front to one. Surely that then means you'll be either over or under geared?

Oh no, not another signature....
 
The rear cassette has a much larger range - That said the high gear can spin out
That's the bit I don't understand. The rear cassette remains the same as before doesn't it? So therefore it needs the front three cogs to give the range?

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